How long will females typically bowl-wrap prior to ovulation?

Hi everyone,

2 of my females are bowl-wrapping. One of them, my pastave, for about 3 months and has refused food for the past 3 weeks.The other, a pastel het clown, has just started about a week ago. My other females are still heat-seeking, and one hasn’t locked at all yet (a leopard het clown). She last laid for another breeder in May, but either has no interest in my spotnose het clown or he has no idea what he’s doing, being a virgin. Everyone else has locked about once a month since November. Btw, is it true that unless females are cool-seeking it’s kind of a waste of time to start pairing? I think I read that recently.

I understand that follicular development can take anywhere from 4-8 months. Will they really cool-seek or bowl-wrap for that long? My temps are good. And is food refusal any indication of where the female may be with regard to development and time to ovulation?

Thanks so much in advance. Here’s a photo of both girls I’m talking about.

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I can't answer your question, but those are some beautiful mamas you got there.

Not a BP-breeder here so consider that, but from what I can tell those are very tight quarters for those snakes, so personally I have to wonder how significant "bowl-wrapping" is if they have nowhere else to go?

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

Not a BP-breeder here so consider that, but from what I can tell those are very tight quarters for those snakes, so personally I have to wonder how significant "bowl-wrapping" is if they have nowhere else to go?

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It’s for sure bowl-wrapping, I can add another pic to show the tub itself.

I deliberately chose tub sizes based on my experiences visiting Justin’s new facility at Kinova and what they use. The tubs are very long and deep but not too wide that they don’t feel secure.

I have 4 PVC’s for my largest girls, a rack of FB-8’s for hatchlings and another rack of FB-40’s which he recommends for BP’s under 3000g. The 40’s are where they will spend most of their lives and breed as well. >3000g and/or gravid girls are moved to FB-70’s.

You can also check out this video for more info about tub sizing. Totally okay to disagree of course, Justin’s has just been my go-to for this as a well-known and respected BP breeder with an incredible facility I’ve seen in person:

https://youtu.be/VnzUtwzi1qM


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Pic for reference of the FB-40’s.

BP’s do best and feel most secure when at least 3 sides of their body are hugging the tub. The deep but narrowness of the tub in front and back acts like a hide would. Right now I have a spotnose het clown boy who I moved from his hatchling FB-8 at 350g to a 40 (rather than using a 10 as a transition) which was too much space, immediately went off food. Put a hide in there for security and all was well.

[mention]Bogertophis [/mention]

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Another pic. Hope this gives some perspective.
This leo het clown girl has just passed the 1800g mark.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9142bee18b.jpg


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