is 36x18 ok?

I always rememberd a 40 breeder equivalent being the go to size for BPs, but it seems now certain people are saying 4x2 is " the new standard". Ive had my male in a 41 qt and now a 116ish qt (36 ×18) and he seems fine just wanted to get opinion. Might look at a christmas tree tote (52x20) this winter.

My bps are all on 36x18. They're all over 10 years old.

I think for a male BP, your 36" x 18" is fine; it's the female BPs that tend to get larger & may need more space. Of course, take into consideration any "exceptions to the rule" & also that they grow their whole lives, so a 30+ year old male might need more space but that's a long way off. ;)

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Originally Posted by Vader1

I always rememberd a 40 breeder equivalent being the go to size for BPs, but it seems now certain people are saying 4x2 is " the new standard". Ive had my male in a 41 qt and now a 116ish qt (36 ×18) and he seems fine just wanted to get opinion. Might look at a christmas tree tote (52x20) this winter.

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I agree that a 36x18 is fine, but that a properly set up 4x2 is better. A christmas tree tote is an intriguing option, but, unless your ambient temp is 80 degrees, it looks like it would be a challenge to heat.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/uIfeQIt.jpg

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

I think for a male BP, your 36" x 18" is fine; it's the female BPs that tend to get larger & may need more space. Of course, take into consideration any "exceptions to the rule" & also that they grow their whole lives, so a 30+ year old male might need more space but that's a long way off. ;)

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Yea for a big female i would agree, ive seen some chunkers. My guy is about 9 years old and i dont feel like he is too cramped.

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Originally Posted by anatess

My bps are all on 36x18. They're all over 10 years old.

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Yea mine is 9.

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Originally Posted by Homebody

I agree that a 36x18 is fine, but that a properly set up 4x2 is better. A christmas tree tote is an intriguing option, but, unless your ambient temp is 80 degrees, it looks like it would be a challenge to heat.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/uIfeQIt.jpg

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Well i used to not worry bout supplemental heat, my my new house stays rather cold. last winter was fine but this year he went off food so now he has a hot hide (88) a cool hide(77 to 81) and a cooler hide (74ish). I dont think a extra foot would make it much harder, maybe just up the wattage of my CHE.

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Originally Posted by Vader1

Well i used to not worry bout supplemental heat, my my new house stays rather cold. last winter was fine but this year he went off food so now he has a hot hide (88) a cool hide(77 to 81) and a cooler hide (74ish). I dont think a extra foot would make it much harder, maybe just up the wattage of my CHE.

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It depends on how much more air you're trying to keep warm- don't assume, try it first: test for at least a week without an occupant, & in winter when your place is chilly. That's the only way to know.

So I started off with a big (48x20) tote. My ball python seemed fine there, but I had some issues. I think it was fine because ambient temperatures in the room were on a natural daily cycle of between 80-90 degrees. The undertank heat mat was cranked pretty high (like 101 degrees) to raise the plastic surface temperature a few degrees. I also couldn't stick it right to the plastic on the particular tote, I had to use foil, all-weather tape to keep it stuck. I started on paper towels for substrate, and humidity was pretty easy to control. Once I added Reptichip, the humidity spiked up to the 90s and high 80s. I had to take out a ton of the moist stuff, wipe down the condensation, and mix in a lot of dry substrate to get the humidity down.

Very soon after getting my snake, I was given an Exoterra Large/Low (36x18x12). The undertank heat mat sticks to the glass well and keeps the glass surface over it about 1-2 degrees lower than the thermostat set point. I used the all-weather tape to tape off all but two lengthwise ⅛" slits across the top screen and have no trouble maintaining humidity over 60%.

I think my problems with the tote are that I didn't pick a great tote for the job. The bottom had some honeycomb pattern instead of being flat. I also may not have drilled enough holes to allow enough ventilation, which is why humidity was too high. Finally, this winter, I don't know how I would've heated the tote to get good ambient temps. With the glass, if room temps get too low for an appropriate ambient temp, I can always get a low-power ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat.

I like the Exoterra, but I'm currently building a PVC 4x2x2. Partially because I want to give my snake more space to move around and for me to add enrichment items, and partially because I think I'd like to get a smaller snake like a Hognose or Rosy Boa down the road to put in the Exoterra.

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Originally Posted by Vader1

Well i used to not worry bout supplemental heat, my my new house stays rather cold. last winter was fine but this year he went off food so now he has a hot hide (88) a cool hide(77 to 81) and a cooler hide (74ish). I dont think a extra foot would make it much harder, maybe just up the wattage of my CHE.

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Installing a CHE in a plastic enclosure is what I would be concerned about. I know people do it, but I'd find it challenging. When I had my bp in a sterilite tub, I only used a UTH because my ambient temp is high.

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Originally Posted by Bogertophis

It depends on how much more air you're trying to keep warm- don't assume, try it first: test for at least a week without an occupant, & in winter when your place is chilly. That's the only way to know.

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Amen and amen. Can't emphasis this enough. Get your enclosure dialed in before you put your critter in it. Pay particular attention to your temps, humidity, and security.