Is there a reason most racks pull from the short side?

Hello everyone, I'm brand new here. I'm still learning all I can (So many morphs, so many combos, it makes my brain spin), but I'll likely not be getting any snakes for a while.
I'm looking at building my own racks. Is there a reason almost all racks are configured to pull the bins from the short side? My thinking is that if I make them pull from the long side (like bookshelf configuration), I'd be able to have some shelves for babies and some shelves for adults on the same rack. Considering I only plan to start out with a pair or a trio, this would work well for me.
Is it just a space saving thing? Or are there advantages to doing it the usual way that I don't see?

The reason his space management, most people have their rack leaning against their wall obviously if they open from the short side you can put more racks on a wall than you would the long side.

For enclosed racks with solid sides, you also get the benefit of a longer thermal gradient for them to use since most people run the heat tape along the back, regardless which orientation the rack is.

So a 33x18 tub the usual way has about 18" of heat tape near the back end. If done the other way, you place 33" of heat tape across the long side in the back; this position would be needed to insert shorter tubs and have them all have a hot spot over the heat tape.

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I have a 41-qt rack that pulls from the long side (home-build that I purchased and refurbished). The biggest problem with it is that the tubs flex readily in the middle of the long side which would make it easy for a snake to push its way out. I had to set up a wooden dowel that could be easily inserted and removed to secure the tubs.

Also, speaking to bcr229's point about flexibility, I would imagine having no support on one long side of the rack could over time lead to sagging in the middle by the shelves. Depending on the material this may be more or less of a problem but still something to consider.

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Originally Posted by Tila

Also, speaking to bcr229's point about flexibility, I would imagine having no support on one long side of the rack could over time lead to sagging in the middle by the shelves. Depending on the material this may be more or less of a problem but still something to consider.

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I hadn't considered this. How do hatchling racks get around this?
Also, will this stuff be prone to sagging?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-Melamine-White-Panel-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-750-in-x-49-in-x-97-in-461877/100070209

Commercial hatchling racks I've seen made from what I believe is HDEPVC (high density extruded polyvinyl chloride) still seem to be designed to have the short dimension accessible and only 3 or so across.

I personally don't know how melamine coated wood will hold up in terms of failure level sagging over time. I have seen others stress the importance of keeping moisture away from the exposed wood portions of these boards because they can absorb it and expand in a way that results in permanent damage.

When woodworking, there is a system of measurement designed to assess stiffness which rates different types of wood on their ability to withstand a load perpendicularly applied to the grain (how you'd most likely use lumber to build shelves, etc.) Choosing a hardwood is one way quality furniture stands the test of time.

I believe the person from Olympus Reptiles on Youtube has a home constructed side access rack system. Maybe you could message him?

Good luck, hope this helps!

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Originally Posted by Tila

I believe the person from Olympus Reptiles on Youtube has a home constructed side access rack system. Maybe you could message him?

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I think that rack was gotten rid of sometime in the last year and replaced with commercial PVC racks. I know in the video I saw it mentioned in that he had complained about sagging over time making some tubs particularly difficult to slide in and out.

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