Ambient Temperature

Hello! My snake has a minor R.I. and I was told by the vet to improve her enclosure and see if her symptoms get better from there. So what I've done is bought 75 watt ceramic bulbs to get the temp up. My issue is it's connected to a Century Heat Mat Thermostat, will it still be able to regulate temperature despite not touching the direct heat source? I've connected the heat sensor inside the enclosure on the wall

Hi! I'm in the process of installing some ceramic heat emitters to a tub and I haven't tested this myself yet, but I've been told to drill a hole in the tub's lid and let the thermostat probe hang under the ceramic heat emitter. Are you using a tank or a tub?

I am using a tub, it's approximately 31in×15in×13in ...Will a 75 watt be strong enough for those dimensions? Also I'm not sure if I should put it so close to the heat source itself because I want the whole tub to warm up. My thermometer says the temperature is at 72°F while the Thermostat heat detector states 69° Both are on the cooler side of the tub but are across from one another

Get the temp on the cool side up to 80 and on the hot side to 89 first. Your temps as they currently are, are too cold and a major contributor to the RI. Did the vet treat the snake, or did he just suggest upping the temps.

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Originally Posted by Luvyna

Hi! I'm in the process of installing some ceramic heat emitters to a tub and I haven't tested this myself yet, but I've been told to drill a hole in the tub's lid and let the thermostat probe hang under the ceramic heat emitter. Are you using a tank or a tub?

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I have my probe attached in a arc away from the emitter set to 27 degrees c, to warm to 27 degrees c where probe it meens hot side gets to 32 middle 27 and cool 25 that’s how I do my probes with che. Have a look at pic my positions do vary slightly https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f56a096c36.jpg




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The key to prevent RI is temps not falling below 75 so 76/78 on the cool side and 88/90 on the warm side, proper ventilation, proper humidity and also avoid stress (over handling, bathing etc) because usually RI are a combinations of factors not just one.

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Originally Posted by Jamiekerk

I have my probe attached in a arc away from the emitter set to 27 degrees c, to warm to 27 degrees c where probe it meens hot side gets to 32 middle 27 and cool 25 that’s how I do my probes with che. Have a look at pic my positions do vary slightly https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...f56a096c36.jpg




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Fantastic diagram, thank you for sharing it! This is super helpful.

Wondering if a design like this would also work for a plastic tub? Also should the CHE always go on the hot side, or would it be better to put it on the cool side to get the ambient up if already using a UTH for the basking spot?

Problem is if u put it on cool side u will have to set temps low and heat will never get to hot side at correct temps and if u turn it up u end up up with cool side hot so just reverses


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That makes sense, thanks for the advice!

Yes, keep the temps up with an overhead heater potentially. However, that might also cause difficulty keeping the humidity up! I have found that Sphagnum Moss is a LIFE SAVER! I have said this a couple times before on here, I can't tell you enough how useful it is! Heat lamps will suck up all the humidity, but the moss will counteract that so your snakey can be hydrated AND toasty.:D You can buy a box of it from Petco/Petsmart for about $10, just use a couple SMALL patches (don't over do it) in the tub and follow the instructions on the box for soaking! The box will last you a couple months at least, depending! Good luck!