Sick ball python question

I got my first ball python less than six months ago. He was a healthy looking sub adult. About a month into owning him I started to notice respiratory infection signs such as wheezing and puffing. I take full responsibility for potentially causing this. I did my research before getting him from an expo but actually owning a snake is different then doing hours of research on how to own one. My husbandry was not perfect. I've had to made a lot of corrections. Now he is in a 40 gallon breeder with a regulated heat mat and a 100 watt black incadecant bulb. Temps are 92 basking and 84 ambient/cool side.

Long story short I took rusty to the vet as soon as I noticed signs of an ri. He was put on fortaz without a culture being done. At the time I did not do enough research to know that a culture should be the FIRST thing that is done. So basically my poor baby had almost 2 months of fortaz shots for no reason. It was my fault. I should have demanded a culture from the begininng but I didn't know anybetter. He has not eaten since beginning of August right around the time I noticed the wheezing, clicking, and puffing. I have not offered food recently because I know that he wont be interested in eating until we get him healthy. So about 4 vet visits later, a swab culture/sensitivity was done. 3 different bacteria were grown out from the culture. One being a strain of MRSA... my question is has anyone heard of MRSA potientally causing a sick snake? He is going to be put on Amerikacin injections on Monday.

Another thing I forgot to add is that during the first vet visit in August he weighed 1250 grams.. since then he has lost 100 grams. What can I do about this? He looks healthy he is not super skinny at all. I'm worried about him... the vet said usually when a reptile loses 10% of thier weight tube feeding is an option.... any feed back will help

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Originally Posted by Elro1717

One being a strain of MRSA... my question is has anyone heard of MRSA potientally causing a sick snake?

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In my experience usually Methicillin-Resistant Staph Aureus (MRSA) pops up as a secondary infection in animals due to a suppressed immune system. The only thing that makes MRSA special is its resistance to Methicillin based drugs (e.g. the pencillin family/complexes) that disrupt the single-layer bacterial cell walls. A broad spectrum aminoglycoside like Amerikacin which targets bacterial ribosomes should clear it up. Just focus on maintaining proper husbandry and you should be fine.

And only tube feed as a final measure to prevent death due to starvation.

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Originally Posted by Lord Sorril

In my experience usually Methicillin-Resistant Staph Aureus (MRSA) pops up as a secondary infection in animals due to a suppressed immune system. The only thing that makes MRSA special is its resistance to Methicillin based drugs (e.g. the pencillin family/complexes) that disrupt the single-layer bacterial cell walls. A broad spectrum aminoglycoside like Amerikacin which targets bacterial ribosomes should clear it up. Just focus on maintaining proper husbandry and you should be fine.

And only tube feed as a final measure to prevent death due to starvation.

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Thank you very much.

A 100 gram loss of weight in a ball python that size isn't too big of a deal. Half of that could easily be from when he last took a dump.

I agree, tube feeding is not something I would attempt just yet.

Stress is poison to a immune system, and his has taken a beating as is. What he needs most is 1. the correct meds and treatment 2. PRIVACY and as low stress as possible.

Of course you have to do treatment and maintenance, but that should be the only stress he has at this point. Tube and force feeding adds a lot of stress to a snake. Ball Pythons are literally perfected for the lifestyle of eating lots when there is plenty (in the wild) and then fasting and living off of what they have eaten for months, during the time when food is scarce or non existent. (by season) This is completely normal to them.

Of course things change when you factor in a sick animal, a starved one, or a hatchling that has never eaten.

But your boy has eaten, is still at a good weight, and it shouldn't hurt him to fast some more. Right now you have to concentrate on getting rid of the URI and secondary infections/bacteria.

Make sure husbandry is spot on, and give a ton of privacy. If you haven't done so already, I would black out the sides and back of the tank. You can use black construction paper (on the outside). You can even put a thin sheet of insulation such as styrofoam around the sides and back of tank, it will help hold the heat in. I would also cover most of the top, leaving it open around the light of course, and for enough air flow.

You want him to feel as safe as possible in between treatments.

Good luck, sounds like you are on the right path now!

Thank you guys. Tank is insulated with a 1/4" foil type insulation I got at a hardware store.. screen top is covered with the same type of material.. helps insulate as well as reflect heat back into the enclosure

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Originally Posted by Elro1717

Thank you guys. Tank is insulated with a 1/4" foil type insulation I got at a hardware store.. screen top is covered with the same type of material.. helps insulate as well as reflect heat back into the enclosure

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You've gotten some great advice above. Follow their advice and your snake should rebound nicely.

And it's important, so I'll reiterate what was said above, proper husbandry, no stress, no tubefeeding or assist feeding. All very important.

Best of luck and please keep us posted!!

GOOD NEWS. Something told me to offer a f/t last night and he took it. First time eating in almost 4 months. I have really made an effort to keep his ambient temps up as much as possible. I have noticed less open mouth breathing and elevated head which lead me to try feeding him. First time I had offered food in about a month and he wasted no time. He will be going on amerkacin this week... I am feeling a lot better now that he has gotten a meal in him... thank you guys... god is good. It's time for him to kick this and get back on the right track. I have gotten his husbandry down perfect.. there really is a science to it haha