Herpstat or rheostat?

I need a heat temperature controller for my 60w CHE. Ive recieved some feedback from
veterans and experiences reptile owners but i wanted to get another shot at it before buying the item.

My plan was to buy a Herpstat EZ2 for the CHE and also take advantage of the second output and upgrade my heat mat’s JumpStart into that Herpstat. Take into account both CHE and UTH will both be on the Herpstat EZ2.
However a breeder with years of experience recommended a dimmer or rheostat for the CHE since it will keep the temps on without having the herpstat turn it on and off as it reaches the desired temps.
But if i do this the heat mat will still be with my Jumpstart thermo.
Please add links

Also where in the tank should i put my CHE and Herpstat probe(if thats your answer)?More to the hot side? My cold hide gets as cold as 73F usually.

Ive had this snake for a week now so everything is kinda new.

thanks in advance

I'm sorry I can't help (I have no experience using CHE) but I'll happily 'bump' this.

I have thermostats and rheostats and prefer the rheostat, mostly because it’s always on and I can get consistent heat. They are also only like 10 bucks. You will want to leave it at full “power” and draw it down until you get the temp you want. A infrared temp gun is indespensable in this matter and can be obtained for like $20 or so from places like harbor freight. I use rheostats with my snakes, geckos and dragons.

Everyone has their own preference and budgets though. I use digital thermometers in conjunction with the rheostat to ensure the temps stay where I want as well. It’s just as effective for my needs and considerably cheaper. If you are worried or don’t want to tweak or go through tests, go with a thermostat.

hey OP! i gave you a lot of help in your previous thread, and i stand by my recommendation of not using a rheostat due to your environment.

it's always good to get more info from more than one source so i applaud you on doing your own research into what works for you. [emoji4] good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

hey OP! i gave you a lot of help in your previous thread, and i stand by my recommendation of not using a rheostat due to your environment.

it's always good to get more info from more than one source so i applaud you on doing your own research into what works for you. [emoji4] good luck!

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Touché on environmental factors. You also need to take those into account and based on the quoted post, you probably want a thermostat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spechal

Touché on environmental factors. You also need to take those into account and based on the quoted post, you probably want a thermostat.

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yup! i used a CHE + rheostat for well over a year when i still used glass enclosures. it worked perfectly for me because the room never fluctuated more than 3°. OP's previous thread made me believe a thermostat would be safer.

@OP: you know your environment better than anyone on the forum, and if you believe a rheostat will work then go for it! i just want you to be informed on their use and how they work. [emoji4]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

yup! i used a CHE + rheostat for well over a year when i still used glass enclosures. it worked perfectly for me because the room never fluctuated more than 3°. OP's previous thread made me believe a thermostat would be safer.

@OP: you know your environment better than anyone on the forum, and if you believe a rheostat will work then go for it! i just want you to be informed on their use and how they work. [emoji4]

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Hey I knew id found you here again, thought it would be better to create a new thread than quote you again on the old one.
What made me do this post was cause i talked with Brian Gundy you might know him, very experienced breeder. He recommended the dimmer cause it would not be turning on and of constantly. Also they are more affordable i think. Do they live long?
i wanna be 120% sure. Also can I use both UTH and CHE on same herpstat? I always though every heat source should need their own stat unless identical.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spechal

I have thermostats and rheostats and prefer the rheostat, mostly because it’s always on and I can get consistent heat. They are also only like 10 bucks. You will want to leave it at full “power” and draw it down until you get the temp you want. A infrared temp gun is indespensable in this matter and can be obtained for like $20 or so from places like harbor freight. I use rheostats with my snakes, geckos and dragons.

Everyone has their own preference and budgets though. I use digital thermometers in conjunction with the rheostat to ensure the temps stay where I want as well. It’s just as effective for my needs and considerably cheaper. If you are worried or don’t want to tweak or go through tests, go with a thermostat.

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Can I see one of those rheostats in a link? I always look them up online but idk which one would be ok.
Depending on different factors ill go for Herpstat like tttaylorr recommended, with two outlets for UTH and CHE the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by YounGod

Hey I knew id found here again, thought it would be better to create a new thread than quote you again on the old one.
What made me do this post was cause i talked with Brian Gundy you might know him, very experienced breeder. He recommended the dimmer cause it would not be turning on and of constantly. Also they are more affordable i think. Do they live long?
i wanna be 120% sure. Also can I use both UTH and CHE on same herpstat? I always though every heat source should need their own stat unless identical.

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Brian.............Gumby?
LOL. of course i know him! he's a legend.
if one thermostat has two inputs, and you need two inputs (UTH + CHE), then a 2-input thermostat is what you want.

Herpstats do not operate 0% to 100%. that's why they're so recommended; you can program their electrical input/output to any percentage.

a dimmer will NOT last as long as a reliable thermostat, especially anything NON Herpstat. i don't have any evidence of this LOL but Herpstats are so well made and so worth the $krilla.

EDIT: i just want to reiterate that you know your own environment better than anyone on the form, so just do your research and trust yourself. [emoji4]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

Brian.............Gumby?
LOL. of course i know him! he's a legend.
if one thermostat has two inputs, and you need two inputs (UTH + CHE), then a 2-input thermostat is what you want.

Herpstats do not operate 0% to 100%. that's why they're so recommended; you can program their electrical input/output to any percentage.

a dimmer will NOT last as long as a reliable thermostat, especially anything NON Herpstat. i don't have any evidence of this LOL but Herpstats are so well made and so worth the $krilla.

EDIT: i just want to reiterate that you know your own environment better than anyone on the form, so just do your research and trust yourself. [emoji4]

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Can the Herpstat turning off the CHE constantly after reaching configured temps mess it up over time? What do you recommend to put on top of the tank to place the CHE without having a burnt snake?. i have towels but they might just get on fire.
Also will it live my snakes lifetime?😂