AP T-10 Setup Questions

The sticky AP Cages thread convinced me to order a PVC cage from AP. Such great info in the thread. My T-10 arrives Tuesday and I had some basic questions.

It'll be for my 500g (or very close to it) Piebald BP.


Here is what I have:

AP T-10
Sliding glass doors w/ cage lock
10mm routed groove for LED strip
LED RGBW light strip w/ remote $19.99 at Amazon
88w RHP from ProProducts
***No FLEXWATT OR HEAT TAPE being used***


I will get a Herpstat but not sure if a 1 or 2. I really do not see us adding a second snake anytime soon so I'm not super sure I need the Herpstat 2 and the price difference is a fair amount ($55).


A few basic questions:

• I will need to run some black silicone caulk around lower joints - 3 correct (2 sides and back)? Is this strictly to prevent liquids from escaping or will it also help with humidity? I had big time humidity issues in my exo terra and I'm trying to avoid having a daily maintenance schedule of misting, adding moss, etc. if possible. It was one of my primary reasons of going to the PVC cage. Wondering is caulking up the sides and top seams will help also with humidity?

• Water bowl placement: I'm getting a big corner water bowl - does it need to be on the RHP side or opposite? In my current tank it sits in the middle with UTH on hot side and CHE on cool side. Temps are well regulated and house stays at 70 year round.

• Accurite thermometer: Will this be setup the same as on my exo terra? I currently have the probe INSIDE the tank sitting on glass with substrate (Eco Earth) on top about 1/4" deep. I'll likely add a little more substrate to the new setup with no UTH. Do I still need to put my Accurite probe all the way underneath the substrate against PVC enclosure floor?

• The LED rope light strip has adhesive backing but should I put a tiny bit of the same black silicone up in the groove to help hold it in place?

I also plan to build his hides and backdrop using styrofoam, colored grout and mod podge. A YT'er named lizard landscapes has a lot of videos on making landscapes using styrofoam, mainly for lizards I guess but I have seem a couple environments on Pinterest for snakes using his techniques. Hopefully it will work out and my little fat belly will not crush when it lays all over it like he is Al Bundy.


Thanks for any feedback!

TNK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Night King

I will get a Herpstat but not sure if a 1 or 2. I really do not see us adding a second snake anytime soon so I'm not super sure I need the Herpstat 2 and the price difference is a fair amount ($55).

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I might encourage you to get the Herpstat 2. You can use the 2nd port on the herpstat to control the lighting and if the strip is dimmable, you can do a more natural 'sunrise/sunset' light cycle.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Night King

A few basic questions:

• I will need to run some black silicone caulk around lower joints - 3 correct (2 sides and back)? Is this strictly to prevent liquids from escaping or will it also help with humidity? I had big time humidity issues in my exo terra and I'm trying to avoid having a daily maintenance schedule of misting, adding moss, etc. if possible. It was one of my primary reasons of going to the PVC cage. Wondering is caulking up the sides and top seams will help also with humidity?

---

This is more about sealing the cage to prevent liquids from escaping and bacteria forming in hard to reach places. It may help slightly with humidity, but not appreciably. In addition, for a ball python, there is no need to add moss or mist an enclosure with adequate humidity. Use a larger water bowl in the enclosure and that should keep the humidity up just fine, unless your ambient humidity is extremely low. Some people like to add moss or mist during shed cycles, which is fine, but not necessary. That said, if your house humidity does get very low (i.e. in winter time) then it may be helpful to do this sporadically.

Misting too often can actually be harmful if it does not evaporate properly, causing scale/skin problems or excessive bacterial growth. I have seen keepers over-saturate cages in an attempt to raise humidity to what they thought was needed, and would say the erring on the side of drier than wetter is better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Night King

• Water bowl placement: I'm getting a big corner water bowl - does it need to be on the RHP side or opposite? In my current tank it sits in the middle with UTH on hot side and CHE on cool side. Temps are well regulated and house stays at 70 year round.

---

Generally, most people put it on the opposite (cool) side, but there is nothing wrong with it being in the middle. Placing the water dish near heat makes it evaporate faster, raising humidity, but also meaning water may need to be added/replaced more often. You can keep this in mind when tailoring humidity within the tank.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Night King

• Accurite thermometer: Will this be setup the same as on my exo terra? I currently have the probe INSIDE the tank sitting on glass with substrate (Eco Earth) on top about 1/4" deep. I'll likely add a little more substrate to the new setup with no UTH. Do I still need to put my Accurite probe all the way underneath the substrate against PVC enclosure floor?

---

It depends on where you want to monitor. If you put it on the floor, it will tell you the floor temperature. Putting it higher up may be more indicative of ambient temperature. I generally prefer putting thermometers higher up to measure ambient and use an IR temp gun for spot temps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Night King

• The LED rope light strip has adhesive backing but should I put a tiny bit of the same black silicone up in the groove to help hold it in place?

---

This is up to you, but silicone may be helpful as 'tape' adhesives tend to loose effectiveness in humid environments.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Night King

The sticky AP Cages thread convinced me to order a PVC cage from AP. Such great info in the thread. My T-10 arrives Tuesday and I had some basic questions.

It'll be for my 500g (or very close to it) Piebald BP.


Here is what I have:

AP T-10
Sliding glass doors w/ cage lock
10mm routed groove for LED strip
LED RGBW light strip w/ remote $19.99 at Amazon
88w RHP from ProProducts
***No FLEXWATT OR HEAT TAPE being used***


I will get a Herpstat but not sure if a 1 or 2. I really do not see us adding a second snake anytime soon so I'm not super sure I need the Herpstat 2 and the price difference is a fair amount ($55).


A few basic questions:

• I will need to run some black silicone caulk around lower joints - 3 correct (2 sides and back)? Is this strictly to prevent liquids from escaping or will it also help with humidity? I had big time humidity issues in my exo terra and I'm trying to avoid having a daily maintenance schedule of misting, adding moss, etc. if possible. It was one of my primary reasons of going to the PVC cage. Wondering is caulking up the sides and top seams will help also with humidity?

• Water bowl placement: I'm getting a big corner water bowl - does it need to be on the RHP side or opposite? In my current tank it sits in the middle with UTH on hot side and CHE on cool side. Temps are well regulated and house stays at 70 year round.

• Accurite thermometer: Will this be setup the same as on my exo terra? I currently have the probe INSIDE the tank sitting on glass with substrate (Eco Earth) on top about 1/4" deep. I'll likely add a little more substrate to the new setup with no UTH. Do I still need to put my Accurite probe all the way underneath the substrate against PVC enclosure floor?

• The LED rope light strip has adhesive backing but should I put a tiny bit of the same black silicone up in the groove to help hold it in place?

I also plan to build his hides and backdrop using styrofoam, colored grout and mod podge. A YT'er named lizard landscapes has a lot of videos on making landscapes using styrofoam, mainly for lizards I guess but I have seem a couple environments on Pinterest for snakes using his techniques. Hopefully it will work out and my little fat belly will not crush when it lays all over it like he is Al Bundy.


Thanks for any feedback!

TNK

---

First off your going to love your T10. Great choice. The RHP is going to be enough, no other heat needed with the 88 watt Pro Panel. Id grab the Herpstat 2. Yes $55 more but id rather have the extra channel incase needed. Idk what for but if you wanted to run lights or another heat source ect...
As far as Silicone, Lexan Clear comes with the enclosure. Use it sparingly, its different than stuff you get for the bathroom at lowes, it goes a Long Way.
The enclosure overlaps itself already so caulking anywhere except floor joins will not help Humidity.
As far as Water, dont get a Corner water bowl. You want the bowl in the middle of the enclosure. You will move it closer or further from the RHP to control Humidity. Hides use back corners better. I would use a 5qt bowl like the Big Camo styles I use. (Tractor Supply Plus/ Country Max etc) Then If you need less water to lower Humidity You dont fill it so high but if its dry in the winter you have the room for 5qt's of water.
As far as Acirute... My probes under the substrate on the HotSide (dont put it under the hide when using RHP will effect reading) under the substrate under the RHP area. The unit itself put on the Cool Side. Make sure its up at least 5 inches from floor on the wall if you mount it like me. I tried it low and the spot where it reads on the bottom was blocked and the Humidity and ambient reading was effected. I used a tiny bolt thats Head fit into the Acurite (hang option) and that way my snakes dont knock it. I run my probes out the back behind the unit and back in on the Hot side so that wire is all over the enclosure under the substrate 4' across. I use Silicone to keep my Acurite probe wire fastened to the floor and my probe has a screw hole to fasten it. The PVC is about a 1/2" thick if i remember correctly, I use a tiny 1/4" screw (or 1/2 the thickness of the PVC) so it only goes threw 1/2 way to mount the probe to floor. You'll need a laser too. Your thermometer probe might say 89 but the RHP heats the top of the hides about 2-3 degrees more than the substrate. So my Hot hides are actually what the herpstat says. Hepstat says 90 , floor thermistat probe says 88.7 and the Top of hide checked with a laser says 91.5.
You'll find the right dial in for yours.

Check the How to set up a PVC t8 thread. Shows the concept of running the wire.
As far as Herpstat Probe I run mine into the same hole in the back as my RHP power cord. Then it hands 1/2 way down to the floor under the RHP against the back wall.