Problem with train feeding

So I tried the train feeding like just 10 mins ago, and when I tried insert another prey item into the snake's mouth he dodged me. Like he turned his head all the way to another direction(I tried couple times). Someone in this forum told me when snake is swallowing they are not shy at all and just don't care, but for me that wasn't the case. So any suggestion?

Another thing forgot to mention , so when I did the first tried I kind of did it successful but i think i didn't push in so it fell , and when i tried the second time he started to dodge me

Why do this?

I have fed multiple feeds to many snakes over the years. I have always waited until the snake gets the first all the way down before offering another. Doing this I've never had an issue.

I makes sense to me a snake would shy away from what you described.

Is there a reason you are train feeding? Only reason I could see would be train feeding a hatchling who hasn't been eating for a while and is being assist fed mouse pinks or something, training a fuzzy in behind it to get some weight on them. If your snake is eating on it's own just wait until it finishes the first prey item and then try offering another the same way. It will either take it or it won't.

WTH is train feeding?? The problem with eating on a train is they are usually moving and I get motion sickness if Im not the one driving......

On to the original issue. Why are you trying to power feed your animal?

Of the many things you should not do with your ball python is power feeding. It's up there with assist feeding, bellow force feeding.

If the prey items are small and you are trying to give multiple prey items, obviously get better prey items, but more over you can keep offering new feed items after your snake has reset it's jaw after eating. In my experience they are likely to eat again within about 1 hour after eating, after that they seem less likely to eat and more defensive

Train feeding isn't necessarily power feeding. It's often used to train a picky critter to accept a different type of prey/feeder than what it's used to eating. I've used it to convert adult retics and boas over from rats to rabbits; in the retic's case it was an adult female that only ate rats. The problem is she needed 4-5 jumbos every ten days at a cost of $25 per meal, rather than one $10 rabbit. That kind of money adds up fast.

To avoid "power feeding" you have to make sure the combined weight of the two feeders is correct for the snake.

And yes, if you're not sneaky, quick, and have a very steady hand the snake can avoid the second feeder. The technique takes practice and it's harder with the smaller snakes. It's easiest initially if you start with the snake's typical feeder at 2/3 of the meal and the follow-up feeder comprising 1/3 of the meal.