Can anybody help/give me some good tips on breeding Brooks

Hi I have 3 Brooks I should say a trio o have 1 male hypo just gorgeous I've had him since like 1 month or 2 old now I believe he is 2 or 3 but the his female albino mate is about 4 years old smaller but not by much of yama my male hypo but I can't get them to lock she's pissy if I'm around and when yama touches her she hisses and moves and I've seen him try to court her but she is too pissy any help? I've also never had any problems with them trying to eat each other while attempting breeding but the second female is a flame hypo just over a year and still skinny but long eating 1 adult mouse like every 5 days sometimes less if it's a bit warmer but she's got a other 2 years to go I was just wondering how can i breed them and het a successful clutch from my male hypo and female albino? I'm looking at should I feed them before burmation and how much or should I not feed them till their out of burmation so how long I've heard 2 weeks to 3 months? Then i think I was supposed to feed them abunch then place them together right? My male weighed around 800 and something last time but I slowed his feeding cause he did his 1200 lol didn't look fat but you couldn't see the curve of his side's and the females a good 500 to 600

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Not trying to be rude, but that one, big, broken-up paragraph is really hard to read. I can't make sense of it.

Try spreading your sentences out and being more clear with your thoughts.

I honestly don't know how to answer the question(s) you're asking and I'm guessing you will get more replies if your thread was easier to read.

When brushing colubrids (bit late for that) you stop feeding 2 to 3 weeks before cooling them down to the 50/60 degree range. You obviously do not want to cool an animation that just ate.

You start feeding again when they out of brumation and their body core temperture has risen up.

I start stop feeding in mid October, start cooling in November and bring my animal back to normal temp first week of February, I feed twice a week for 3/4 weeks and start pairing.



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Originally Posted by Deborah

When brushing colubrids (bit late for that) you stop feeding 2 to 3 weeks before cooling them down to the 50/60 degree range. You obviously do not want to cool an animation that just ate.

You start feeding again when they out of brumation and their body core temperture has risen up.

I start stop feeding in mid October, start cooling in November and bring my animal back to normal temp first week of February, I feed twice a week for 3/4 weeks and start pairing.



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THIS ^^^^^^^^^ And if you want a reference to a expert in kingsnake breeding reach out to Gerold Merker. He's a accomplished breeder of kingsnakes and has authored literature on the gray banded kingsnake. His email is gpmerker@sbcglobal.net
Good luck.

The space bar is your friend. :)

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

Not trying to be rude, but that one, big, broken-up paragraph is really hard to read. I can't make sense of it.

Try spreading your sentences out and being more clear with your thoughts.

I honestly don't know how to answer the question(s) you're asking and I'm guessing you will get more replies if your thread was easier to read.

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Lol sorry I was half asleep and falling a sleeping while making this post but I had to before I forgot and I did till I got updates lol

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Originally Posted by Reinz

The space bar is your friend. :)

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Yes she is ;)

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Just want to say thanks as you can get alot of wrong or misleading info while googling and finding those no it all's who don't even own a snake lol

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A pair of red milk snakes has bred for me once. Corn snakes and bullsnakes have bred for me multiple times.

Don't count on breeding your kings this year. Next spring is more likely.

Google is your friend. Tips on breeding king snakes: http://www.kingsnake.com/colubrid/ There are other sites, too.

Steve Osbourne (author of the linked file) is a first rate breeder, but I don't always agree with him. He doesn't think light cycles help stimulate breeding. I think it helps for corns and kings. Just follow the Florida day/night light cycle. That can be found in a lot of places, including the World Almanac.

I also use a day/night temperature cycle. I have the heater's power on a timer that turns it off at night automatically. Cage temperature falls to room temperature. This simulates the daily temperature cycle in the wild. Prolonged "optimum" cage temperatures can more or less heat sterilize a male after he produces sperm in late summer but before the next spring's breeding season.

Good luck.