What are some ways to reduce stress?

Hi everyone. I messed up.

Got my new ball. And she seemed super calm right when. We got her. Didn't touch her for the day. Next day was a vet visit to get her checked out. We have been taking her out a lot and now she is showing every sign of stress except not eating. She ate on the 5th before I got her. Then I fed her the 13th. Then yesterday she was just looking hungry, searching, kind of in the open, was ready to strike for no reason (which I now know is all stress related) but we fed her again. Baby fuzzies. She was on live before and had absolutely no issues going to f/t so I just assumed she was doing okay.

Temps are ~90/80 ~54% humidity. I'm thinking about increasing it.

What are some good ways to reduce stress? She stays right in the center of the cage always. Never going on the hot or cool side. The center does have a lot of plants to hide and a hide too. Then she has a half log hide and a hidea on the cool side.

I told my girlfriend just no touching for a week. I think that may be the best idea. Anyone else for reducing stress?

Change out the hides. The half logs are not good for ball pythons. Leaves them too vulnerable. Try reptile basics hides. You are going to want two identical hides so your BP does not choose security over temperatures.

http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box

Here is what I have, and it comes in different sizes:

Exo Terra Reptile Cave, Extra Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR5BA..._Sa9aybQAXR237

I agree with no touching for at least 7 days ( longer the better IMO) so if you can go longer it will only get better every day. I just got some $2 6" flower pots from lowes, and cut them to size ( cut it in 1/2) notched out a little entry hole and hes seems happy with em. Mine is in a 41 qt tub with 2 hides and some fake leaves in the middle for clutter. He has been mainly in warm side hide but the first couple days he stayed in cool. I just got hands on last night for about 5-7 mins on Day 13 after he fed and shed for me.

To give you an idea of how a hide should be compare to a snake, imagine a turtle, well the snake hide should fit a snake like a shell fits a turtle. Hides need to be snug with all sides touching your BP's body.

To reduce stress 90% of it will be husbandry related. Assess your husbandry based on your snake size and do the necessary changes.

Also if you feed fuzzy mice those are too small as BP are started on hopper and quickly move through sizes.

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Originally Posted by Deborah

To give you an idea of how a hide should be compare to a snake, imagine a turtle, well the snake hide should fit a snake like a shell fits a turtle. Hides need to be snug with all sides touching your BP's body.

To reduce stress 90% of it will be husbandry related. Assess your husbandry based on your snake size and do the necessary changes.

Also if you feed fuzzy mice those are too small as BP are started on hopper and quickly move through sizes.

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THIS ^^^^^

And I think Deborah will agree, that if you set up very close to what the breeder had the snake in prior to you taking possession you'll reduce a lot of stress.

The more I study my son's royal the more I appreciate the species. I used to consider them boring, but the reality is these snakes are extremely successful because of their natural instincts. They are the smallest pythons on the African continent and they know their limitations. They are NOT to big for predation, therefore they hide and emerge when they want to eat and then cleverly go back into hiding.

I think a lot of folks mix up INSTINCT with perceived intelligence. Just because one snake is more active than another doesn't mean it is any more intelligent.

Whoa,,, I ran out of breath on that rant, but it relates to why a snake like this will become stressed faster than another. They NEED to hide based on their evolutionary history.

Anyhow, if you are looking to reduce stress, contact your breeder and find out how the snake was kept prior to your purchase. Replicate the environment and then slowly introduce items as you go. Handling often is a no no at least for a bit.

Royals can be the best first snake or the worst depending on your understanding of them and your willingness to adjust your wants and needs to that of the snake's.

I've heard that covering the entire enclosure with a towel/blanket/sheet will help calm them. If it won't throw your temps out of wack, you might want to try it.

Lots of hide options, and being left alone. Also, just because you don't see the snake moving around doesn't mean it never moves. Especially if it's shy scared, stressed, new, etc (but often even if it isn't) it will only move around when the lights are out and no one is around. It's common for them to spend most of the day snoozing in one spot and then go on an excursion or two at night. If you make little piles in the substrate you well find them flattened the next day, even if the snake is back in the hide again looking like it never left.

Just to touch up on the exo terra hides, those will work when the BP is smaller, but the size/space needed to accommodate the larger ones it's not practical to use like say one of the reptilebasic hides.

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Originally Posted by Neal

Just to touch up on the exo terra hides, those will work when the BP is smaller, but the size/space needed to accommodate the larger ones it's not practical to use like say one of the reptilebasic hides.

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How large is "larger"? Last time I weighed Malfoy, he was 4.4lb. Some days he "fills up" the xl hide, and other days he makes himself smaller and there is space between him and the entrance.