Help switching BP to frozen thawed from live?

The past couple of times I've fed my ball python I noticed that once the mouse get captured that the mouse mouse be trying to bite my BP. After she eat I inspected the general area where this biting appears to have had took place but nothing be there. Then I realized how small the teeth are on a baby mouse. So it couldn't actually do any damage but once my BP starts moving up in meal sizes I don't want the potential injury threat to happen. I tried switching her to F/T 4 times & each time was unsuccessful. I fully unthawed it properly & warm it up to a nice temperature but my bp do not be interested. Soon as I drop a live mouse in with her she immediately goes into hunt mode. I've never had a problem with her feeding live. I believe if I drop a live one in with her everyday that she would eat lol that's how good of an eater she's saw out to be. Any tips for switching to F/T? If I could get her on F/T like that I would be extremely happy.

I wait until they are in their hides to place the food item in there. Our bp's wait for the mouse to stick its head in the hide and they pounce. As BP's are ambush predators this falls in line with what they should be doing. I have used this to my advantage in switching between live and F/T Make sure the mouse/rat is thawed and warm and the head of the mouse is about 100 deg (use a temp gun). Place the food item with it's head in the entrance of the hide and jiggle it around a little to make it look alive.

When we do this ours to not wait long enough to strike to even know if it was live or not.

Its a process getting a animal to make the switch from live to frozen thawed. Some will do it quicker than others based on the technique you use or combination thereof. Dont get discouraged either bc we all have been there and the key is persistence and tough love. You may want to consider going with fresh killed as a starting point since the f/t rodents have been consistently refused.

How should I go about killing the mouse? I think that would be a great way to start.

So I should feed live for a few times allowing my BP to hide out while letting the mouse roam around? Then one time switch & go with F/T wiggling the mouse in front of the BP hide while the mouse being a great warm temperatures?

I just switched 6 to ft and one (my female mojo) ALWAYS refused ft. I throw them in hot water for 20-25 minutes until you can bend them fluidly then I heat them up with a hairdryer I'll get the body around 84-86 degrees and I'll get the head close to 120. I then stick the head of the rat in the hide. Anymore they don't make it that far and they snatch them out of my hand from within their hides.


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My picky mouser will only touch them if they are VERY warm. He gets interested but sometimes I have to remove the mouse from the enclosure, heat it up again, and put it back in. thank goodness
im done with live prey what a pain in the butt.

Best method I found I to get a pinky or what ever size your bp is consuming weekly, and brain it. Take a small knife or razor and very carefully cut the top of the skull while frozen. Then thaw it out and try feeding your bp while in his/her hide or at night. Braining increases the scent and food response tremendously. Keep us posted on what helps.

Cervical dislocation, I believe it is called. Practically instantaneous, low amount of suffering, and works well. To do this method:

1. Scent the room by leaving the mouse in it for a while, this should get your bp in the mood to eat.
2. Taking a ruler and a countertop or other flat, raised surface, sandwhich the mouse's head between the ruler and the counter, with its body hanging over the edge.
3. Grab the tail and swiftly lift it up. The goal is to get it's neck to form a right angle rapidly. This will snap the spine and kill it.
4. Immediately offer it to your snake, via tongs or whatever method you will be offering FT.
5. Repeat for the next 3 feedings or so.
6. When switching to FT, make sure the animal is fairly warm, and make sure the room is scented by the animal before offering.

Essentially after killing the mice for a few feedings you want to keep all other variables constant. This should produce a high rate of success for switching over.

Does or has anyone ever used a stun gun? Would that work?