Switching from pre killed to F/T and question about co2 rats.

So I bought my first ball python about a week ago, he's a super pastel named Kratos hatched on 6/12/15. My first time trying to feed was Friday night. I thawed out a small rat with hot water and made sure body temp was a little over 100f. I wiggled it and everything and he refused, I left it in there over night and threw it out. I know he may still be stressed but I don't think so bc he is very active and not shy when we have him out. The breeder gave me feeding cards that showed when he shed and when he ate and what he ate with every date since he was born. They were feeding him pre killed for the last 6 feedings and live before that. Would it be hard to switch to frozen now? I'm going to try a frozen again in a few days and if it doesn't work I will buy a live rat and use co2. But can I feed immediately after I co2? Or how long do I have to wait? Or is co2 only to be used before freezing?

Try drying off the rat really well and then fuffing it up with hair dryer (which will also bring him to a good temp after a warm water soak). If he's used to pre-kill he might not want a wet rat. Also avoid handling for a few days before feeding.

I thawed in a bag so the rat wasn't wet. I used a temp gun and body temp was 105f.

I second the hair dryer. Not only does it dry them if wet, it pushes the rat smell to them, which gets them ready to eat. It's funny cause 6 of my snakes come right to the front if their tubs when they hear the hair dryer, even if my daughter is just drying her hair. They must hear that thing somehow, although I really don't know how balls hear.

Lol hopefully mine will identify hair dryer to food one day. I will try the hair dryer next feeding. I'm think I'll also place a paper towel and the rat on the vent of the vision cage to thaw all day so hopefully he can smell it and get a little worked up.

Before trying to switch your animal you should offer the same type prey than previously offered by the breeder, you will be more successful switching an animal that is settled and eating for you than trying to switch an animal that has never took a meal for you.

Keep in mind that very active is not a sign of not being stressed quite the contrary.

Right now do not handle your BP until he eats it's first meal for you and make sure that your husbandry his on spot, tight hides, enclosure not too big, proper temps etc.

The number 1 reason for a new BP not to eat with it's new owner is husbandry stress related.

As for CO2 yes you can feed a rat soon as it is euthanized.

Never thought I should feed what was previous offered, thank you! Right now he is 24" long in a 24x22x14 vision cage, hot spot 88, hide on both hot and cold side, humidity 55%. Is thr enclosure big enough? I will be purchasing a bigger vision cage once he gets bigger but if I'm not giving him enough room I can purchase asap. Also is temp and humidity good?