Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
I have read the care sheets, and they seem to mostly talk about air temp. I also understand that for UTH you focus on surface temp r/t air temp. In my 20gal setup (see pic), I have a 8 watt zilla on the left side of the tank, centered under the paper bowl. I put 3 liners between the glass and the newspaper to reduce the surface temp measured by a probe under the bowl taped to the newspaper, of 93F currently (thermostat in the mail). The bowl does quite a bit to trap heat and raise that temp.
My question is, because I'm using a UTH, how much need I be concerned with the ambient air temp in the rest of the tank? Directly over the heated area it appears to be 80 degrees. The other side is more like room temp, around 76 (But I could see this dropping when my house is more like 65-70 degrees). (With non-UTH I understand you want a gradient of 90 to 80 on cold side). Is my snake going to be happy enough knowing that she has a warm place to go to? How do UTH users control the ambient temperature in the rest of the tank during the winter?
If you could point me to a good care sheet that describes UTHs better that would be very helpful too.
http://oi60.tinypic.com/o758jm.jpg
Re: Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
I had a similar problem and had to buy a CHE. If I'm reading your post correctly it seems like you don't have enough of a heat gradient.
Re: Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
I was just logging in to ask the same question when I saw your thread. I have a very similar set up. I have been able to keep the temps right by covering a good 80% of the tank lid with plastic wrap to keep humidity and heat in the tank. However I did notice that the tank had dropped this morning from the usual 80 degrees the cool side runs at to 75. I live in Arizona and we had our first chilly night last night so I could easily see this being the reason it dropped. Wish I had an answer to your question, but I am in the same boat. I would like to avoid putting an overhead light on the tank since they tend to dry it out so much, but I just don't see that UTH generating enough heat to keep the cool side as high as it needs to be. Hopefully someone will come along soon who has encountered and corrected the same issue. Is there a such thing as an overhead/ambient heat source that doesn't eat up humidity?
Re: Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by
kiiarah
I was just logging in to ask the same question when I saw your thread. I have a very similar set up. I have been able to keep the temps right by covering a good 80% of the tank lid with plastic wrap to keep humidity and heat in the tank. However I did notice that the tank had dropped this morning from the usual 80 degrees the cool side runs at to 75. I live in Arizona and we had our first chilly night last night so I could easily see this being the reason it dropped. Wish I had an answer to your question, but I am in the same boat. I would like to avoid putting an overhead light on the tank since they tend to dry it out so much, but I just don't see that UTH generating enough heat to keep the cool side as high as it needs to be. Hopefully someone will come along soon who has encountered and corrected the same issue. Is there a such thing as an overhead/ambient heat source that doesn't eat up humidity?
75 is fine for a cool side temp, especially if it's only an occasional overnight temp.
Re: Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
@kiiarah thanks for the response and the idea to cover the top. Here's a thought, maybe we can cover the screen lid with something that insulates better than plastic wrap? That should keep the heat from rising out so easily.
Re: Acceptable temperature gradient with UTH
I agree with KGM, a thermostat is a must. Those heat mats can get as high as 140 degrees unregulated. The actual glass temp has to be measured. You can get a budget hydrofarm on Amazon for a great price out members on here could recommend a higher end thermostat if you have some money to throw around. The dinner switches work and are cheap but you have to check and adjust them any time the room temps drop.
I have a towel on folded on top of the plastic wrap which I am hoping helps insulate it. You should pick up ahygrometer also if you don't have one already. Bps are pretty humidity dependent snakes.