New Snake Owner...

Hey guys! Just got a BP from a friend of mine who had it for about a year. The snake is probably close to four feet long, I have it housed in a tank that is 32"-12", with a 60 watt heat lamp on one end for basking and a cool hide on the other side. Found a branch, baked it, and placed it in there for him as well. His water dish is midway between the lamp which is on one end and the cool side. He seems very healthy, beautifully docile, and he took a live mouse without hesitation this past Sunday. I just had a few questions...

How much should I feed and how often?

I will be getting my thermometers later on today, but based on what I wrote, does this seem like a good temperature setup? I will be getting a hide for the warm side today, BTW.

How much larger will he grow? I'm assuming he's about two years old.

Well first off if he is 4 feet then one mouse isnt nearly enough. I would suggest trying to get him to eat a F/T medium rat. Rats are way more healthier and you only have to feed one. We feed once a week. The temps need to be about 80 on the cool side and 90-95 on the hot side. Once you get the thermometers then you will know if that 60 watt is enough. Might try a 75 watt or even 100 watt but watch the temps!

I'm going to go one step further and say you require a UTH or some sort of belly heat (glass vive?) WITH A THERMOSTAT.
Do NOT set up a UTH without a thermostat. You are asking for burns. It should be set to 90F.
I use these - they are nice for fewer snakes, and don't break the bank
http://www.amazon.ca/Jumpstart-Digit...art+thermostat

You'll also want at least 2 hides in there large enough for him to get into yet small enough to feel secure. What kind of substrate are you using? You can go with something like paper towel, but in doing so you'll lose humidity which is necessary for proper health. You may want to create your own humid hide with store-bought sphagnum moss! Very cheap stuff, and you can use a plastic container to do this. I've posted a guide to making one on another thread.

PLEASE take a look at the care set up sticky on the main page. Very important to make sure you have proper temperatures before you actually get the snake, but I see you've done it backwards :P
You don't want night drops in temperature either. So, keep that heat bulb on 24/7. If it's also a light, swap it for a red bulb or simply a heat emitting bulb (that has no light).

Best of luck!

Lol thanks guys....I did it backwards mostly cause the snake kind of just got left at my house, haha....did not really have a choice. I am currently using paper towels as a substrate, just so I have something....I have a hide set up on the warm side, but he is staying exclusively on the cool hide. In fact, I haven't seen him leave it for about 36 hours now, although I have been working/at school. I do know that my brother came by my apartment yesterday and was handling him, and supposedly he was very active with my brother. Is it normal for a BP to stay in his hide for so long, or can that be an indication of a problem?

A happy BP is a hiding BP.

If you find your BP NOT hiding most of the time, something is up. Otherwise it's just doing what BPs do.

So I finally set up my UTH with a hydrofarm thermostat....I've got the thermostat set at 93, with the probe under the paper towel substrate on the glass above the UTH. The air temp on the warm side is at 82, with the cool side around 76 or so. Is this a good setup, considering he has a warm spot? Or is there more to do with this setup? Thanks in advance!

The TSTAT should be between the UTH and the glass. Not inside the enclosure. Bump the ambient temp up to 88-90 on the warm side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Morris Reese

The TSTAT should be between the UTH and the glass. Not inside the enclosure. Bump the ambient temp up to 88-90 on the warm side.

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Although I prefer it this way as well, if the probe is secured it can work other ways.

OP you'll want that ambient temp in the cage around 80F throughout with your hot spot around 90F. How are you measuring the hot spot? (Simply the UTH isn't enough, you'll also want a probed thermometer, stuck in place with a dab of hot glue to the glass).

Glass tanks unfortunately don't hold much heat or humidity - I've had them before as well, but overall enjoyed them - so I'd suggest a 50W or so red bulb to bump the ambient temps. You can also get straight up heat bulbs, which might work better. Both options must be kept on 24/7 so there is no nighttime drop in temperatures.

:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NH93

Although I prefer it this way as well, if the probe is secured it can work other ways.

OP you'll want that ambient temp in the cage around 80F throughout with your hot spot around 90F. How are you measuring the hot spot? (Simply the UTH isn't enough, you'll also want a probed thermometer, stuck in place with a dab of hot glue to the glass).

Glass tanks unfortunately don't hold much heat or humidity - I've had them before as well, but overall enjoyed them - so I'd suggest a 50W or so red bulb to bump the ambient temps. You can also get straight up heat bulbs, which might work better. Both options must be kept on 24/7 so there is no nighttime drop in temperatures.

:)

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I also agree with the probed thermometer on the inside. Temp guns are ok, but the instructions on most will tell you do not rely on it for accuracy.

This Forum is an asset to us Snake parents, I understand you did this backwards I recommend you get a Couple of Books on the BP if you have a kindle or A Tablet with the Kindle App the books are very reasonable in price, also for sure read everything on this forum as in the care sheets and do a Goggle search and read Articles on your BP for correct temps equipment and feeding. I Find that my digging in to every aspect of being a steward of these Beautiful Animals stays in my head and I also keep a Bookmark on certain articles and books for quick info on the fly.

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