Help with my new BP setup?

Hello all,

I recently purchased my first baby ball python (male albino/pastel morph, about 2 months old and 16-18 inches) as a pet for myself and my girlfriend. He was pretty active and inquisitive at the expo, and seemed more comfortable being handled than most of the other babies. I'm really excited to raise my new buddy and I want him to have the best home possible, but I'm a little concerned because he refused to eat last night (I know this is fairly common for BP's especially after being moved into a new enclosure but it's still stressful for me). My current setup is:

-20 long terrarium (I know this is a bit large for a baby but I have a lot of foliage and plenty of hides and he hasn't pressed on the glass or tried to escape since the first night).
-1 undertank heating pad
-1 overhead blacklight for heat (I leave this on 24 hours, otherwise the ambient temperature drops to 70 on the warm side)
-1 water dish
-3 hides, one on the hot side which he hasn't left in 2 days and two others which he hasn't entered
-1 temp/humidity monitor on the wall in the warm side

My main concern is his feeding and the temperature/humidity. I'm really having trouble getting the ambient temperature above 80 on the cold side, even with the heating pad and lamp on 24/7. I ordered a thermostat the other day to hopefully make the heat pad hotter but I have no experience with this and I don't want to mess it up so any advice is great. The heating lamp raises it to about 80 and about 5-10 degrees hotter inside the hide, but it sucks up the humidity making it hard to get over 40% humidity (I believe 50% is more or less ideal). I moved the water dish underneath the lamp and covered about 2/3 of the lid with plastic wrap but it doesn't seem to be helping. As far as feeding goes, I tried offering a warmed up f/t hopper mouse last night and he wanted nothing to do with it. The breeder fed him live food but I really want to get him on f/t as soon as possible, so any tips as far as this goes are much appreciated.

In summary here's what I need help with:

-Using a thermostat to raise the temperature without burning the snake or screwing up the humidity
-Keeping humidity consistent without losing temperature or having to mist multiple times a day
-Getting him to eat, preferably f/t although he's only eaten live before

I really want to make him as happy, healthy and secure as possible so any help is great! Thanks!!!


https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...08147136_n.jpg https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hpho...83575779_n.jpg

Welcome to the site!

Your main problem is that your thermometer isn't reading the temperatures in the right places. Under tank heaters don't heat the air in the cage, they only heat surfaces. Unregulated UTH's can and will get hot enough to burn your snake (130 F+)

You need a probed thermometer to read surface temperatures. Here is a good one from Walmart that only costs $12

http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...3.jpg~original

Here is a thread that covers cage heating in detail:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

Here is a thread on how I set up tanks:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!

I would suggest taking that temp/humidity probe and hammer and applying a rough, even amount of force to the device until it looks pretty well broken, then replacing it in your trashcan... or return it, those things are really inaccurate and it's probably well over 90F on the cool side(my heat bulbs always heat over 90 in a 29 gallon)

I would run to walmart and invest in one of these:
http://www.acurite.com/environment/h...red-probe.html
They're $12 at walmart. The probe should go directly over the heat pad and the unit on the cool side.

Also, I didn't see a thermostat on that list. you need something to control your temps
This is the basic thermostat:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=hydrofarm
You could also use a lamp dimmer temporarily. They're about $10 at homedepot/lowes.

Heat pads and reach well over 130F, I left one on before I put Dovah in his new tank, just as an experiment, that thing was at 114 within 10 minutes and 140 within an hour... that's hot enough to burn a human, it's the minimum safe heat for cooking.

As for humidity, cover the viv about 50-60% with foil or saran wrap. It keeps my humidity at about 50% consistently without a lamp on, with the lamp I run a covered pond fogger($2 at a yard sale) to keep humidity higher.


There's a thread somewhere with pictures and details about setting up a tank, but I can't find it, hopefully someone will chime in with a link.

okay I can help you on a few things. for one if you live in a dryer climate its much harder to keep humidity at levels that are ideal. To help raise humidity you need stuff in your tank that can hold moisture longer. Aspen bedding is great, but I found it hard even in the north east to keep humidity actually inside my tank. I use a towel but I only cover half of the top. As for you thinking its too big my guy is the same age as yours and I have him in a 4'x1' tank and hes doing great in there.

First thing I would personally do is change out your aspen bedding with repti bark. Once I started using this substrate I realized it significantly retained moisture.

Also a GREAT thing to do is go out and get Sphagnum moss and line the water dish with it as well as conveniently placing it around the tank. Not only will this "clutter" your tank up a bit for him but it will also help in shedding!

I personally wouldnt cover 2/3 of my tank, just because I like to have good air flow on the inside to avoid stagnant air.

Here are some pictures how I keep my tank nice and humid for my little guy

http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/y...s527f463b.jpeg

http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/y...sf93dd4f5.jpeg

as for the heat problem I wouldnt turn up the under the tank heater just because you dont want it to be too hot for your BP in his hide. Personally if youre really concerned about it I would get a small heat lamp for your cool side with a low wattage just to keep the temperatures optimal.

hope I could help!

Oh and on another note im fully aware that my gauges are garbage :)

Picked up the AcuRite thermometer from Walmart today and set it up with the probe over the heat pad and the unit in the cold side. Turns out the bottom of the tank above the pad was pushing 114 degrees! And I thought the tank was too cold... I unplugged the heating pad until my thermostat comes in. Hopefully soon.

Two further questions I could really use advice on:

-Will the snake be alright with only the lamp for a couple days until my thermostat comes in and I can use the heat pad again? (cold side temps are about 76 without the heat pad)
-Any tips on getting a hot enough ambient air temp without losing too much humidity? Like I said in the first post, I tried saran wrap but it doesn't seem to be helping much.

Thanks again everyone!

My advice, ditch the backlight, and get an infrared heat lamp. backlight bulbs are less efficient and won't heat the cage as much as an infrared heat bulb of the same wattage will.

I would suggest this bulb: (Get the 75 watt version)

http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo

Temperatures are more important then humidity, so focus on getting the air in the cage around 80 F and once the thermostat comes in use the heat pad to create a 90 degree hot side. Heat pads don't do anything for the air temperature in the cage, so all it will do is create a 90 degree hot spot your BP can sit on to warm up.

What thermostat do you have conning?

You should be able to use your heat pad again once your thermostat comes in.

Hey Man!

I feel your pain on the not eating part. I actually just got my first BP about 6 weeks ago from a reptile expo in my city and I have learned so much since then. My snake was super active at the expo, but I think it was just because she was nervous and scared (flight mode).

Everyone has said it over and over but ill tell you my specks and how I have overcome my feeding problem.

My BP is now 3 1/2 months old, only 2 when I got her. She didn't eat for almost 5 weeks! I got so worried I assist fed her one week just to keep exploring my options. (Try to avoid this, it sux :( )

My Setup:
-UTH for a 10 gal
-20 Gal Aquarium
-Coconut Husk Substrate
-Sphagnum Moss
-Two identical hides on cool and warm side
-Small water dish on warmer side to help with humity
-Multiple artificial plants for additional security and coverage
-Hide in the middle of the terrarium as well as vine so she can climb about (She loves the vine :) )
-Deep Heat lamp with 100watt red bulb (I keep the bulb hanging 6" above the top of the tank, maintains ambient heat and doesn't kill humidity)
-Thermostat to control UTH
-Monsoon misting system (Intervals of 1 hour sprays for 10 sec each)
-Damp towel covering half of terrarium lid to help with humidity and help with retaining heat

With the above setup I maintain the following:

-Hot End Substrate temp - 88 degrees with 2 degree flux
-Cool End Substrate temp - 77 - 80 degrees (Generally doesn't flux below 77)
-Ambient temp - 84 degrees
-Humidity - 40 - 60 percent (Never drops below 40, and hits 60 after mist system kicks up)

I got the misting system because I work 12 - 16 hours a day, so maintaining humidity in Utah is impossible lol. I hope this info helps and wasn't to much! :)

My set up:
http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2fd3b33a.jpg

-29 gallon high tank
-30-40 gallon UTH pad ( set at appx 85 degrees F through hydrofarm therm)
- large water bowl
- thermostat probe taped to bottom of tank in center of UTH to keep track of UTH temp
- 1 hide over the UTH
- 100 w heat bulb directly above warm side hide
-4 inch deep appx6" in diameter tup-a-ware stuffed with damp sphagnum moss
- analog hygrometer
- warm side therm strip
-wet rag covering 65% top of tank
- keep air temp warm side round 84-88, humidity on a good 50


my guys eating, growing,hiding always but is very active and always hungry. He loves his set up,it's obvious

When you start using accurate thermometers you may come to realize your temps are not what you think they are.
I would spot check above your uth if you have a 100 watt bulb right above it.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

No one has answered the question on the feeding. You said the prevous owner was feeding Live, you said you offered F/T. Have you tried Live? I know you want to go to F/T, but it may take a little time for him to switch over.