Help with restless bp

Set-up: I have my male ball python (around 730 grams) in a 20" x 15" x 5.3" tub. Paper towel substrate. Water bowl in the middle. I know most breeders go without hides altogether, but I put one on his warm side in the hopes he'd feel more secure. In his previous tub (which was only slightly larger) he never used the cool side hide anyway.

But he's only eaten once since the tub change and is restless - compared to the old set up where he was a rock. He's caused a bump on his snout from trying to get out so much. :( He ate like a champ in the previous set up so I just don't get it.

Tonight I saw that his hot side is 94, and maybe the warm temp has made him restless. I'm lowering it to 90 but as I type he's still cruising.

FYI, I've already ordered a 34" x 17.5" tub, which will allow me to fit another hide in there. Hopefully that will make him content but in the meantime I was hoping for ideas. It's stressing me out.

I wouldn't worry about it too much yet. Even if the set up looks the same, it doesn't smell the same so he wants to check things out.

I'd wait a week and see if he's still doing it then and if he'll eat.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

-kicks ground sheepishly- That's the thing. He's been in this tub since June. And has only eaten once since. So the tub definitely smells like him and he's had ample time to get comfy.

I'm moving him into a larger tub tonight that will comfortably fit two hides.

Oh since June! Yikes.

It's that time of year right now where the males start going off feed as well for the breeding season. So it might be difficult to get him to eat again. What do you feed? Have you tried live?

He ate on 5/24 (before being moved to the rack), again on 7/16, but nothing since. I've tried braining a thawed rat and leaving it in his tub. I've also tried putting him in a breathable sack overnight twice with no luck. I haven't tried live as the horror stories freak me out. :( Even feeding a young bp a live hopper has me biting my nails (figuratively).

The horror stories are only that. Stories. Those were people who were irresponsible in their live feed where they either:
A. left in the feeder for an extended period of time and the feeder got hungry and ate the only edible thing in the cage. The snake.
B. fed an over sized live animal

Try live mouse or live rat weanling.

The majority of the members here feed live and have been doing it without issues.
But you have to be responsible about it.

Some responsible live feeding tips:

1) Feed the appropriate size food. I like smaller and more frequent meals than larger and less often. Weanlings and small rats are safe and harmless(to some extent). They're more immature and also not as conscious to danger as an adult would be. Adult rats can pack a nasty bite and are much stronger at fighting back, which is why "smaller and more frequent" is the way to go. I feed all of my adults weaned/small rats once a week. And multiple smalls for the big girls. A medium size would be the max appropriate size for a ball python.

2) Keep the feeder well fed and hydrated. They're less likely to see your snake as food. Hungry rats are dangerous rats. They will eat your snake if left unattended for extended periods of time. This is the reason for most snake killing incidences.

3) Don't dangle the live feeder. This puts them in panic mode. A freaked out feeder is a dangerous feeder. Gently place the feeder into your enclosure. Calm feeders are good.

4) Monitor your feedings and keep a tool, such as tongs, on hand to assist your snake in case the feeder tries to bite down. I use a chop stick to stick in the feeder's mouth if its in a bad position.

5) Don't keep the feeder in with your snake longer than 30 mins max or so. Some people have a shorter time frame. If he doesn't eat within that time frame, take out the feeder and save it for next week.

Thanks so much for the detailed advice. Until the larger tub arrives I'm moving him into a medium sized tub with two hides. Maybe he will like it better and chill out. I'll try to get him eating again with a small live rat. I know snake death occurs when the owner walks away (which I would never do), but I'd hate for my boy to get bitten before I can react or something. But I understand the risk is low and I'll give it a shot. :)

One additional step I do with mine - I put a rat food block in there with the rat.

I've been feeding live since 2008. I have 6 bps. No issues.

Rat food in the tub is always a good strategy. Also giving them a chance to relax after being transported with time to eat and drink and even nap will make them calmer and less likely to harm your snake. I wait at least an hour after bringing home live feeders to offer. This also gives me a chance to scent the room so when the rats are ready the snakes are out and searching for food.

Awesome advice bro

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by satomi325

The horror stories are only that. Stories. Those were people who were irresponsible in their live feed where they either:
A. left in the feeder for an extended period of time and the feeder got hungry and ate the only edible thing in the cage. The snake.
B. fed an over sized live animal

Try live mouse or live rat weanling.

The majority of the members here feed live and have been doing it without issues.
But you have to be responsible about it.

Some responsible live feeding tips:

1) Feed the appropriate size food. I like smaller and more frequent meals than larger and less often. Weanlings and small rats are safe and harmless(to some extent). They're more immature and also not as conscious to danger as an adult would be. Adult rats can pack a nasty bite and are much stronger at fighting back, which is why "smaller and more frequent" is the way to go. I feed all of my adults weaned/small rats once a week. And multiple smalls for the big girls. A medium size would be the max appropriate size for a ball python.

2) Keep the feeder well fed and hydrated. They're less likely to see your snake as food. Hungry rats are dangerous rats. They will eat your snake if left unattended for extended periods of time. This is the reason for most snake killing incidences.

3) Don't dangle the live feeder. This puts them in panic mode. A freaked out feeder is a dangerous feeder. Gently place the feeder into your enclosure. Calm feeders are good.

4) Monitor your feedings and keep a tool, such as tongs, on hand to assist your snake in case the feeder tries to bite down. I use a chop stick to stick in the feeder's mouth if its in a bad position.

5) Don't keep the feeder in with your snake longer than 30 mins max or so. Some people have a shorter time frame. If he doesn't eat within that time frame, take out the feeder and save it for next week.

---