THG vs Flexwatt...

So I've been using flexwatt for ages, and I don't own even 1" of the "new" THG heat tape.

Originally I heard that THG was going to be so wicked awesome and blah blah, but now I'm hearing from people that the plastic isn't sealed on the edges, and that is is wearing down quickly also.

Is anyone using the THG that could chime in. Is it good/bad, and why?

I have some in my possession but have yet to install it.
The spot they are talking about are the buss bars, I don't see it as a problem BUT then again I usually do two or three layers of sacrificial aluminum tape anyway. ;)

I've been using it for awhile now and haven't had a single issue so far.

I've been using it since it came out and haven't had any issues, it feels a lot stronger and more durable than the original stuff. Although I also take precautions so that my tubs never slide straight across the heat tape, my racks are either recessed or have a strip of vertical blind over the edges where tubs would normally slide the most.

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photo...D7_1860-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

It seems to have an up side and a down side. The copper side likely should be down.

I hope that the laminate in the future runs out to the edge rather than being short.

It also runs hotter than flexwatt I don't see the need personally more heat just opens the potential for more burns.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

It also runs hotter than flexwatt I don't see the need personally more heat just opens the potential for more burns.

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Remember that heat tapes are basically a "hack" for us. It's main purpose is industrial not reptile heat.

I got THG a few months ago when then FW in a rack overheated. RBI only sells THG now so that's why I got it really. Haven't had a problem with it.

I used flexwatt for a couple years, and towards the end of that I was having trouble keeping consistent temps. I did not think it was an issue with the flexwatt however, and thought the connections were bad. So I went onto RBI and ordered new stuff (which I thought was flexwatt but it was actually the THG heat tape) and rewired everything and threw out the old flexwatt. I threw out the flexwatt because the copper where my crimps were was very raggedy, probably from moving 3 times and getting tossed around.
So far have had no issues with the THG

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Originally Posted by MasonC2K

Remember that heat tapes are basically a "hack" for us. It's main purpose is industrial not reptile heat.

I got THG a few months ago when then FW in a rack overheated. RBI only sells THG now so that's why I got it really. Haven't had a problem with it.

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Granted, but is not THG custom made for the hobby? I am very very leery of using anything that runs hotter than 100ºF max. To me if you are going to develop a new product do so, do not just copy an existing product.

My wish list is simple self regulated to 100ºF.
Highly water resistant product,
stable even temp,
low profile connectors that are bomb proof.

They failed on two for sure and I have not tested the even temp I hope to soon.

The best connection (according to Robyn) is still solder. This relies on skill of the user, it is absolutely easier to do however. The eyelet connection is ok, I am not sold, I can crush the eyelets with a pair of pliers although it makes a mess, my wife cannot. She cannot get a tight connection. The crimper makes a tight but also messy connection I expect a proper press to be the best result but it is not supplied and in such a small size hard to come by.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photo...D7_1860-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

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You have posted this picture multiple times now, but not with proper context. We sent you this sample free of charge. Apparently it was damaged during shipping to Canada, it didn't leave the RBI facility that way. From your response-

"The tape is robust and tougher than flexwatt. I have not at this point plugged it in yet. The box was mangled."

The corner that you show delaminated was damaged and creased during shipping. That should be trimmed off with a pair of scissors before use. Once trimmed, it won't continue to peel.

I have offered to replace it, again free of charge, you declined. You also decided to "disinfect" this electric element and let liquid "wick" inside the laminate at the buss bars. That is definitely not recommended.

As for running hot, our goal at THG is consistent heat, and in a range that will work across a wide variety of setups. You should ALWAYS use a heat control (thermostat) for your heat tape setup. It isn't meant to plug into the wall and run wide open for a reptile setup.

And yet the most common "complaint" is probably that it doesn't get hot enough. Once the heat is dissipated by the rack, the cage, the tub, the substrate, some folks still find it challenging to achieve a low 90's hot spot inside their cage. This can be addressed through variables in ambient room temps, cage setup and configuration, depth of substrate, etc.

One large cage manufacturer has in fact ordered a full custom run of the THG heat tape that runs hotter than our current public tapes. For the same exact reason, under their specific parameters, the final temp was not as hot as they wanted it to be.

There are many variables to achieving the desired set point inside a cage. Just because your specific setup can reach a higher temp than you would ideally like, that doesn't mean that EVERYONE'S setup gets too hot. A high quality thermostat controls the heat output of heat tape.

You can post this pic to say "look what can happen when a product is damaged during shipping", but to post it without any context to imply that "it starts delaminating" is just not accurate, nor fair.

I built my first rack a couple months ago with 6 (15") long pieces of 12" wide THG heat tape all wired together. Covered every side and corner with foil tape and it's still working beautifully. I'm using sterilite 41qt tubs that have raised channels so almost no part of the tub itself rubs on the heat tape. I expect this setup to work well for many years.