Humidifiers

so what do you guys to keep your tank at proper humidities? any good humidifying systems, misters, techniques to recommend? i do not want to use a humid hide because the way my hides are and their entrances. should I: get something like the mistking or the monsoon; buy a humidifer and attacha tube to the cage and have it an a timer; or continue to spray it several times a day?

What kind of enclosure are you keeping them in?

I have a rack system, and I have water bowl in there and that works perfect for humidity.
I put a second bowl when they are shedding, and it always comes out in one piece.

I highly doubt you will need anything like mistking and you probably don't have to spray several times a day.
Do you have a hygrometer?
What is your current humidity at now?

See I have the opposite problem. Here in Florida my humidity is always WAY too high. The front of most of my tubs (I use racks) will have a lot of condensation. Even with 50+ ventilation holes it is just too humid!




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I have a room for my bps. they are in racks. I have a humidifier that is control by one of my herpstat 4 using their humidity probe. I can set what % i want and the herpstat 4 turns my humidifier on and off.

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

What kind of enclosure are you keeping them in?

I have a rack system, and I have water bowl in there and that works perfect for humidity.
I put a second bowl when they are shedding, and it always comes out in one piece.

I highly doubt you will need anything like mistking and you probably don't have to spray several times a day.
Do you have a hygrometer?
What is your current humidity at now?

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It is a glass tank now and I have two water bowls in it, yes I do have hygrometer: one digital thermo/hygrometer on each side. In the day time it gets very low (10%) because of high temps, I use two infrared lamps so it shouldn't be that bad, and yes I do need to spray it several times day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by don15681

I have a room for my bps. they are in racks. I have a humidifier that is control by one of my herpstat 4 using their humidity probe. I can set what % i want and the herpstat 4 turns my humidifier on and off.

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+1 to this. I have a humidifier as well which is controlled by a Herpstat. I have it set to stay between 55-60% in the room and the humidity in the cage stays just shy of 55% most of the time. I'm all about the set-it-and-forget-it. There aren't enough minutes in the day for me to be worried about things that can be monitored and corrected for me. :)

Eric

PS - I did my research on humidity levels, and below 60% is an acceptable level in a home so you won't have rust/mold issues. I think it's very comfortable in the room (78 degrees and 55% humidity - PERFECT!), but since my wife grew up in AZ, she's not as big of a fan of the humidity.

Just to point out something you have missed. RH does not measure how much water is in the air. It is only how close or far you are from the saturation point of air. The saturation point changes with temperature.

Lets take 55% rh @ 75 degreesF is 11gm of water per cubic meter

55% rh at 85 degrees F is 16 gms of water

55% rh at 0 degrees F is 0.5 gm of water.

The point is (slightly off topic) that 50% may produce perfect sheds at a touch higher ambient temp than 50% at a lower ambients.

My 12 snakes are are kept at 50%-55% RH inside the enclosures they all shed perfectly with no misting. I do not heat my snake room and it takes 85% rh to hold 55% in the enclosures.

The kicker is that the amount of water in the air is basically the same. The only difference is 15-18 degrees different.

That is also why the Arctic is a desert it is too cold to have any water in the air.


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I use the ZooMed Repti Fogger for my glass tank. I'll have it on until I start to see condensation on the walls of the tank and then I'll switch it off for a few hours. It has worked for me as far as keeping humidity up. You can change how much fog you want to be put out also. I usually keep mine on the lowest setting possible and it works just fine. My BP has had a perfect shed both times for me.

There are down sides though. One, you MUST use distilled water or the humidifier will clog. Also, the fan will most likely go out on you after about 2-3 months of use. Mine did, even with only ever using distilled water and not running it all day. You can call ZooMed though and they'll send you a new fan. It's easy to install too. I just got mine a couple days ago and it's working better than it was when I first bought it. The first fan was so loud. I couldn't keep it on at night, just because the bf would complain. :rolleyes: Any who, I've seen some reviews from people who had it last for well over a year with no problems..and others that said it pooped out after just a week. It's pretty unreliable, but when it does work, it works wonderfully. :P

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Just to point out something you have missed. RH does not measure how much water is in the air. It is only how close or far you are from the saturation point of air. The saturation point changes with temperature.

Lets take 55% rh @ 75 degreesF is 11gm of water per cubic meter

55% rh at 85 degrees F is 16 gms of water

55% rh at 0 degrees F is 0.5 gm of water.

The point is (slightly off topic) that 50% may produce perfect sheds at a touch higher ambient temp than 50% at a lower ambients.

My 12 snakes are are kept at 50%-55% RH inside the enclosures they all shed perfectly with no misting. I do not heat my snake room and it takes 85% rh to hold 55% in the enclosures.

The kicker is that the amount of water in the air is basically the same. The only difference is 15-18 degrees different.

That is also why the Arctic is a desert it is too cold to have any water in the air.


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You are not going to get much better info on temps and humidity levels than what is posted here. Again Kitedemon is a great source for this, and while I can't meet his standards always, taking as much as you can from these detailed slabs of info is advised.

Now I have the simpleton's solution if you are using a glass tank. trdancer, were you the one I told about the Reflectix and insulating the tank on all sides sans the front?

If so, I use a damp towel under the Reflectix I put over the tank screen. I can get levels VERY high 80%, and I usually let it cycle, or dry out for a better term. Once I see the 45% I'll let it go 1 more day saturate the towel again. Ring it out more or less for more humidity.

I have recently decided to use cypress mulch for my boa, who is in an actual plastic enclosure. Its an option you could use as well. Get the good cypress though. Not landscape stuff as I think there are other toxic woods that get into the mix and I think its stored outside with critters and bugs.

My son's glass tank has been OK after a lot of tweaking. Nothing beats a Herpstat to help control the environment and I pay more attention to what my Herpstat says than my thermometers. The thermometers are a nice way to "back check" your thermostat, but unless something is very off, the Herpstat reading will reading is more than likely the temp. Sorry to drift off the humidity issue, I have great success with the towel process.

It's easy to over think things, yet we owe the snakes a microenvironment that matches their natural habitat as much as possible.

Monitor your snake's sheds and if they are looking good, you are doing something right.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trdancer

It is a glass tank now and I have two water bowls in it, yes I do have hygrometer: one digital thermo/hygrometer on each side. In the day time it gets very low (10%) because of high temps, I use two infrared lamps so it shouldn't be that bad, and yes I do need to spray it several times day.

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When I used a glass tank I did this, http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...tment-Tutorial

It works great, you can leave holes for the lamps and adjust the air holes to tweak the humidity.