Upping the prey size and the panic and pride that ensued...

This weekend I took the plunge and went for the small rat over the multiple mice. It looked GIANT next to my little man, and I thought I'd have to ditch the whole attempt. But he went for it, and though I was panicking the whole time, he successfully killed it. Then I worried if the rat would even fit in his mouth. I left him alone to begin eating and when I came back 15 minutes later the rat was gone. I know the best case scenario occurred (and I'm super proud of my little champ), but I was still panicked.

Does it ever get easier??? With the live mice, I never had a worry; Loki is a stealth predator. But these rats have me freaked out... I may have to think about attempting the switch to f/t even though he'll hate it so I stop panicking about a rat mauling my baby.

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Originally Posted by regiusloki

I may have to think about attempting the switch to f/t even though he'll hate it .

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Why will he hate it...?

Feed whatevers easier for you and whatever you're comfortable with.

Never know until you try! My boy was on live before I got him, but he's perfectly cheerful with f/t and has refused only one meal in a full 5 months.

We tried f/t when I got him. Went on a hunger strike until I offered a live mouse.

I know that "pre-killed" is an option. I'm not sure I can do this, but in honesty I don't understand all the methods. What are they?

When offering frozen thawed, make sure you heat up the rodent. (putting it in a ziplock bag and floating it in hot water, or using a blow dryer on the hot setting) ball pythons use their heat pits to locate prey and a lot of time if you don't give them prey that's the right temperature they can't 'see' it and don't recognize it as food. Usually you can quit doing this after a while once they're used to eating frozen thawed prey.

That's how I feed my boy, with a lovely frozen thawed rat. He's been on f/t since the day I brought him home 7 years ago. Luckily the only time he's refused is when he's in shed. That's the only food source I'm comfortable feeding him.

Surprised nobody pointed this out yet, but a rat under 5 weeks old (around 40-60g) is much safer to feed than an adult mouse. At this young age the rat doesn't really understand and can't really sense danger. It hasn't been around long enough to develop the kind of aggression that results in a snake getting mauled.

Now if you're getting up into a regular pet store sized rat - that is more dangerous but you just need to observe the feeding and keep something like a pencil around to let the rat bite down on if it's free enough to bend its head down. Usually the snake constricts it right around the neck so it can't actually bend its head enough to get at the snake.

If you're really worried, take the plunge and convert to F/T.

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Originally Posted by regiusloki

I know that "pre-killed" is an option. I'm not sure I can do this, but in honesty I don't understand all the methods. What are they?

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There is only one method that's humane. Please ignore anyone that replies by telling you to put it in a sack and wack it on something. You could gas it and feed it fresh but that's not really practical. The only method that is practical is called cervical dislocation. Youtube Cervical Dislocation Rat. The top few videos show a couple of ways. The gist is that you hold the skull in place right behind the ears in the center and tug quickly and firmly on the base of the tail.

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Originally Posted by MrLang

There is only one method that's humane. Please ignore anyone that replies by telling you to put it in a sack and wack it on something. You could gas it and feed it fresh but that's not really practical. The only method that is practical is called cervical dislocation. Youtube Cervical Dislocation Rat. The top few videos show a couple of ways. The gist is that you hold the skull in place right behind the ears in the center and tug quickly and firmly on the base of the tail.

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i google and prepare myself to do it but just couldn't....they look so cute and some even crawl right into my hand. i just supervise make sure the snake don't get bite. but my balls have been bite a few time, some even draw quite a bit of blood. After a shed or two they will be perfectly fine again.