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  • 03-21-2013, 02:54 PM
    jtman
    Very long hunger strike caused by temps too low
    Hello BP.net! Its been a long time since I was a more active member here. A lot has changed over the years and my zoo has been culled, so to speak, in that time. I still have my origonal BP Charlie, and I am having a problem. He hasn't taken a meal in more than four months. His appetite has slowed during the winter as usual, but this year its been too long and I am worried.

    He is about 7.5 years old. I dont remember the last time I updated my sig but his wight is about the same at 1400g, and he still looks pretty good. Hardly emaciated but I would like to see a little more meat on his bones, so to speak. I checked his temps and was blown away with what I found. Warm side, a nice 90-93 (using a temp gun). Cold side... 62-65! Waaay too low! I'm a bad bad owner as I should pay attention to these things much better.

    I live in Michigan and its still quite cold. Due to high energy costs we have to keep the heat in our house down. Usually around 65-66.

    It dawned on me that the only thing that has changed in the last 4 years is that we re-homed the bearded dragon and it was atop Daisy's old cage that Charlie's enclosure was. I believe the radiant heat from the BD enclosure allowed Charlie's cage to stay in the right range. Now that the BD cage is gone and he's just sitting on a table I need some extra help to get those cold side temps up.

    Ive searched for a solution, but I'm not quite sure what to do. I forget the company who makes my BP cage, but its made from that puffed plastic stuff. Its approx 3'x2' and 1' tall. Nice plexiglass door that swings down. Heated with pre installed flexwatt on a JC t-stat. This leaves me with about zero head room to put something like an IR bulb or the like. Not to mention the limitions on installing a fixture.

    What can I do? I'm looking for the most cost effective solution. I would really like his enclosure to be a self contained enviornment. You can never count on steady weather where I live and in this cost concsience situation i can't afford to keep my house at a constant temp. for the snake. I dropped a good chunk of change on his enclosure years ago. Is there a way I can make this work during the winter months?
  • 03-21-2013, 03:04 PM
    Kaorte
    You could put another strip of flexwatt on the cool side. It sounds like either an Animal Plastics or Boaphile cage. You can just put the flexwatt on the outside underneath the enclosure and the heat will be able to get through. It won't do much for your ambient temps, but at least the snake won't freeze on the cool side.

    Also keep in mind it is very normal for a male BP to go off feed in the winter months. It probably has little to do with the cold temps. As long as the snake is still a healthy weight, he should be just fine.
  • 03-21-2013, 03:33 PM
    jtman
    Thank you Kaorte for your response.

    I do have an extra piece of flexwatt laying around somewhere, perhaps I can use that with a dimmer switch to get some extra heat onto the cool side.

    I found my email invoice for the cage. Its a Reptile Basics 2x3 cage, they appear not to sell them anymore.

    He has a history of hunger strikes during the winter, but he started early this year and is going late. This is the longest he has ever gone without a meal.
  • 03-21-2013, 03:52 PM
    MrLang
    I think those cages can be outfitted with a RHP? Rich is very helpful, so maybe you can contact Reptile Basics and explain your dilema and see what Rich can offer you.
  • 03-21-2013, 04:32 PM
    jtman
    Great idea MrLang, thank you. I will shoot an email to ReptileBasics and see what they have to say about my situation!
  • 03-21-2013, 05:18 PM
    satomi325
    As long as he physically looks ok, I wouldn't worry too much. Have you tried to jump start his feeding response with a live mouse? I often use that as a trick to start up hunger stricken snakes or picky eaters in general.

    My males have been off feed since October. But I'm not worried about them yet. They've maintained with body condition well.
  • 03-22-2013, 02:03 PM
    jtman
    I tried a long time ago to switch to F/T but struggled and in the end stayed with live. He's always been kind of a finnicky eater, wont touch rats, even small ones. It has to be those damn stinky live mice!

    I was just really taken back and quite worried when i realized how low the temps were on his cool side. The consensus seems to be that he should be A-OK and not to worry. I am going to get a dimmer and set up my extra flexxwatt on his cool side this weekend, hopefully that will do the trick until some warmer weather comes our way.

    His pink belly just went away and he should be shedding soon, hopefully he'll be hungry when he's done!
  • 03-22-2013, 02:08 PM
    Rusky
    Since it's been brought up in this thread, I rather ask here than start a new post.

    What exactly is flexwatt? Is it just a flexible heating element that I can stick to the side of my tank to bring up the internal temp?

    If so can someone suggest a good site to get it from and anything I would need to go along with it.

    Thanks!
  • 03-22-2013, 04:21 PM
    Kaorte
    Flexxwatt is basically the same thing as a UTH, but you can buy it by the foot. I buy mine from reptilebasics.com. They will even wire it up for you if you don't know how to solder. Or you can get the clips. Its really easy.
  • 03-30-2013, 11:55 PM
    jtman
    Re: Very long hunger strike caused by temps too low
    I just wanted to update that he is eating as i type. I am so happy! =D

    Rusky, Flexwatt will need to be regulated in some fashion either with a dimmer or thermostat. It will get dangerously hot if you just plug it in directly.
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