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  • 02-11-2013, 11:09 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    Building a rack for living room. Another temp question.
    I definitely want another snake and I would like to try breeding in a year or two possibly. So I would like to have a rack but I can't have a room dedicated to reptiles because of space.

    This is a long shot but if I were to build a rack that had 5-6 tubs and enclosed on three sides with 3/4" ply wood (sealed of course). Are ambient temps still going to give me problems when the room temps are between 68-70?

    I was thinking of even putting a hinged door with a couple vents. For the front to keep as much heat in as possible but still let some fresh air in.

    I realize this may not be possible or more hassle and if that is the case I will just pick up some stackable PCVX cages.

    Any discussion and especially experience is very welcome.
  • 02-13-2013, 12:55 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    Looking at closed rack designs. I think 3/4" plywood will hold enough heat in and I may not need a door. My living rooms lowest temp was 65. That will be better next winter though because I found an air vent or heat that wasn't hooked up. We just moved in, so it has been a busy couple months.
  • 02-13-2013, 01:18 PM
    dillan2020
    My setup sounds the same as your looking for. I have my snakes in my front room in racks i made myself. i used 3/4 inch birch ply enclosed all 3 sides. i setup the tubs in there longways and use 11" flexwatt on 1 and the new 12" heat tape from reptile basics on the other. i have em both setup with back heat and my snakes are happy and healthy. I do have to keep the thermostats at 96 to get appropriate temps. so i'm sure it's a little more expensive on the electric bill but it works out perfect for me.
  • 02-13-2013, 01:44 PM
    satomi325
    Re: Building a rack for living room. Another temp question.
    I have a rack with a door on the front made from plywood.
    It's designed to blend in with my furniture.
    I use 11 inch flexwatt belly heat cut into 6 inch pieces.

    My winter temps around the temps you are describing.
    I close the door at night to retain heat. It works great. It's much warmer in the rack than the room temp when I open it in the morning.

    In the summer, I leave the door open 24/7.
  • 02-13-2013, 02:13 PM
    TheSnakeGuy
    Re: Building a rack for living room. Another temp question.
    When using back heat in your rack is it generally one strip down inside the back wall of the rack? I assume it gives you an 88+ degree hot and 78+ degree cool sides of the tub. Sounds much easier than belly heat. I never considered putting a door on the front. I bet that does wonders for ambient air temp.
  • 02-13-2013, 05:53 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    Thanks for the feedback! I was planning in buying two PVC cages but for the expense I could try breeding and save space. I would like to try it for a little project for my daughter and I.

    I could put adjustable vents on the front and I can lock it to make sure I can let more heat out during the summer.
  • 02-13-2013, 05:56 PM
    dillan2020
    Yes backheat is just one strip down the back wall.
  • 02-13-2013, 07:25 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    I am wondering what will heat inside the tubs better bottom heat or back heat. I was thinking of using bottom heat and using the same size of flexwat in every shelf. I think I would have to make grooves in the shelves for the wires. Does the tubs rubbing on the flexwatt wear it out fast?

    Also what size of tub do I need for an adult female? I want to make sure it is big enough for any ball python. I will work out my plan for smaller tubs later.
  • 02-13-2013, 09:18 PM
    satomi325
    Re: Building a rack for living room. Another temp question.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by TheSnakeGuy View Post
    When using back heat in your rack is it generally one strip down inside the back wall of the rack? I assume it gives you an 88+ degree hot and 78+ degree cool sides of the tub. Sounds much easier than belly heat. I never considered putting a door on the front. I bet that does wonders for ambient air temp.

    Back heat is one strip of flexwatt down the back. It heats up the air to create a heat gradient compared to belly heat, which creates a hot spot.
    Back heat is only easier if your ambient temps are around 75-80. Since it's heating up the air, the actual flexwatt is hotter than if you were doing belly heat.
    It's not effective if your room temps are low.

    I used back heat for a while. I loved it, but the flexwatt had to maintain 120 degrees in order to get a 90 degree hot side and 80 cool side in the tub.My room temp was 70-75. Flexwatt isn't designed to safely run over 100-105 degrees, so I wasn't comfortable with that hazard. I switched the belly heat, and the flexwatt runs at 98 degrees to achieve a 90 degree hot spot and 80 cool side.

    I only have the door to maintain winter temps and to keep unwanted eyes out (maintenance - I live in an Apartment). And I also have friends who have phobia of snakes. So I just close the door when people come over.
    The only issue I have with the door is that the snakes are in darkness. I like to allow them some natural light, which is why I tend to just close it at night (where the temps are the coldest anyway).

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by whispersinmyhead View Post
    I am wondering what will heat inside the tubs better bottom heat or back heat. I was thinking of using bottom heat and using the same size of flexwat in every shelf. I think I would have to make grooves in the shelves for the wires. Does the tubs rubbing on the flexwatt wear it out fast?

    Also what size of tub do I need for an adult female? I want to make sure it is big enough for any ball python. I will work out my plan for smaller tubs later.

    It depends on your ambient room temps.
    Back heat is easier if you can maintain room temps high enough. If your house is cooler, belly heat is more effective and safer.
    You don't need to make grooves in the shelf for wires. You can just tape it down using foil tape.
    The tubs do rub on the flexwatt, but it should be good for a few years before you replace it. The foil tape covers the edges of the flexwatt, protecting it from too much wear.

    Hatchling - 6 qt tubs
    500 grams or less - 15 qt tubs
    500 grams or more - 28-32 qt tubs
    Snakes under 2000 grams - 28 or 32 qt tubs.
    Snakes and big girls above 2000 grams - 41 qt tubs.
  • 02-13-2013, 09:40 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    That is awesome! I think I will be able to keep the room around 70 all year maybe falling to 68. Belly heat it is. I think the front door will be framed with a large acrylic window. That way light gets in and also if I need vents that is easy to work with. I also want to keep them out reach of kids as some family that visit have little ones so I want them locked just in case. I not building this one to go as affordable as possible because I want it to be a price of furniture in the living room and hold a good handful of snakes. It will be on casters because will be using 3/4" plywood and of course it will be sealed appropriately.

    I am a little worried about the ambient holding at 80 but that is why I draw on the experience of all of you. Thanks so much!


    Side note:
    I thought I would only have one snake and of course that has quickly changed. I think I will incorporate a couple different sized tubs so I can dabble in breeding. I don't want to make that. A business, more of a project for my daughter and I to do in the next year or two. I will probably just buy incubator when the time comes. I guess the breaded was right I did end up getting addicted.
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