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  • 05-06-2004, 10:47 PM
    Shark
    Hey, i am going to get my first snake, a ball python, and i have a question for you guys. I have the option of using a 20 long, fish tank, and a 20 ex. high(the same size as two 10 gallons stacked on top of eachother), which would be better? Also will my snake like branches to climb on? What basics do i need? Is a heat lamp, a hide, newspaper, and a water bowl good enough? Thanks for the help....
  • 05-06-2004, 10:54 PM
    Which tank is best for a b.p?
    Tanks are for fish....get a rubbermaid. :D

    Some BPs will climb, but mine never have shown the will to....also, a human heating pad from Wal-Mart will work much better than a lamp. BPs are nocturnal and don't bask so lamps are kinda pointless.
  • 05-06-2004, 11:12 PM
    sophie42204
    UGH!! Poopy smell!!
    I bought a heater (like a human heating pad) that sticks to the bottom under the tank for ours and I think it works great!
  • 05-06-2004, 11:22 PM
    The pad you're referring to is terrible IMO....you should never stick a heat source to the bottom of the tank....a small space between the pad and cage is a must-have when using a pad....otherwise you risk a firehazard or a burn to your snake. The pads they sell at petstores are overpriced and they suck. The human heating pads (without auto shut-off) are 10x better.
  • 05-06-2004, 11:38 PM
    sophie42204
    Actually it was only like $8 and yours is the first negative opinion. There is space between the pad and the animal. First, there's the bottom glass of the tank, then the substrate....nothing directly touching the snake....did it sound like I meant the bottom of the inside of the tank? Anyway, works for me so far.......but I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the insight!!
  • 05-06-2004, 11:40 PM
    sophie42204
    OOPS, I didn't mean to submit that twice........sorry!! (I thought you could delete, but I guess not)
  • 05-06-2004, 11:54 PM
    Marla
    Fixed it, Caren. No sweat.

    Shark, of the two options you've mentioned, the 20-long is the better choice for a ball python, although David is right that plastic housing is also a good choice (I have 4 of my BP's in Sterilite enclosures). You will need a hide for each side (warm and cool), and a heat source, for which I also recommend a human heating pad without auto shut-off. Chances are you won't need a humidity-killing heat lamp if you have the heating pad. Your water dish should be heavy enough that it is difficult to tip and big enough for the snake to soak in if it chooses to.

    Also, you will need a secure top and if it is made of screen you will either need a room humidifier or you will need to cover most of the screen with something non-permeable such as duct tape or contact paper in order to maintain humidity. I also recommend a digital indoor-outdoor thermometer/hygrometer combination such as can be bought at WalMart for ~$15 to monitor your temps and humidity. The analog (dial type) thermometers and hygrometers like are sold at the pet store are often wrong by a significant amount (sometimes as much as 20F-25F).
  • 05-07-2004, 12:02 AM
    sophie42204
    Thanks for deleting my boo boo!
    How do you set up the human heating pad? Isn't it kind of thick? I would like to use whatever is best for Sophie.......
  • 05-07-2004, 12:07 AM
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by sophie42204
    Actually it was only like $8 and yours is the first negative opinion. There is space between the pad and the animal. First, there's the bottom glass of the tank, then the substrate....nothing directly touching the snake....did it sound like I meant the bottom of the inside of the tank? Anyway, works for me so far.......but I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the insight!!

    You need a gap between the Pad and the CAGE....otherwise the heat cannot escape and can cause problems.

    I just use chops sticks or a pencil to lift the cage off the pad enough to allow a small gap.
  • 05-07-2004, 12:08 AM
    Marla
    You plug it into the wall or a thermostat, whichever you're going to use, set it on low and monitor your temps. As David mentioned, it is best to leave space for airflow between the heat pad and container, but it only requires a little, like 1/4"-1/2", which can be done with rubber feet for electronics or furniture for a buck or two. The thing about the reptile heating pads is that they often get very hot -- 130F or more sometimes, have no built-in heat regulation (like Hi-Med-Lo settings on a heat pad), and often heat unevenly. They can cause glass to crack and plastic to warp, not to mention burns on a snake, particularly one that likes to burrow, as many do. It's not like they're evil (like heat rocks), but they are typically beat for features, price, and performance by human heating pads.
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