Ball Python Won't Eat Rat

Hello everybody,

I am sorry if i'm posting in the wrong thread.

My question is related to feeding my Ball Python Boy.
Recently he started acting strange — he stopped hiding at his home and was actually resting few days on top of it.
I was checking temperature and everything — it was the way it should be.
When I was taking him out from the tank he behaved normally, but when he was going back to the tank — he was crawling back on top on his hideaway. It was happening for a week and then everything got back to normal and it was time to eat.
I bought a small rat (I decided to give him a little smaller prey this time) — and he didn't eat him for a few days.
I guess it was wrong, but I was keeping them in the same tank and hoped that I won't see rat by the end of the day, but today (day 4), rat died and I don't know the reason — I was feeding him good and actually thought of keeping him as a pet (maybe heart attack?).

Please advice me what to do.
I really want my baby to be healthy and feel good, but in this situation I feel confused.

Keeping a live rodent with a BP is not only extremely dangerous, but will likely stress the BP as well. (which will reduce the chances of the snake eating)

did the rat have food/water?

Rodents should NEVER be left unattended with a snake. This thread shows why: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...hlight=graphic

What are you using to heat the cage?

undertank heater + 100W lamp
termometer+humidity control

Quote:

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Originally Posted by se900se

undertank heater + 100W lamp
termometer+humidity control

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What color lamp?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by se900se

undertank heater + 100W lamp
termometer+humidity control

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Does your under tank heater have a thermostat controlling it as well as a thermometer monitoring it?

Thermostats are definitely a must. Especially with the ZooMed UTH. They can get way too hot for your snake. They have a high around 110 degrees, and I keep my thermostat set at 91.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NormanSnake

Thermostats are definitely a must. Especially with the ZooMed UTH. They can get way too hot for your snake. They have a high around 110 degrees, and I keep my thermostat set at 91.

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They can get way hotter than that. I've measured them 130 +! Thermostats save snakes.

so my problem and reason for non-eating might be overheating?

my undertank heater has no 'control', but what instruction says that it would heat 10 degrees more then temperature outside (which is 65F)

Yes, this is very likely the problem. ZooMed UTH's can and will get hot enough to seriously injure a BP (130+ degrees and it only takes 108 to give a BP brain damage) the packaging is very misleading and in my opinion criminal.

You must regulate a UTH with a thermostat. Here are 3 good thermostats. Don't waste your money on the junk sold in pet stores.

Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

Mid-Range: http://www.reptilebasics.com/ranco-etc-111000-pre-wired

Best: http://spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html

Here is a thread that goes over the difference between the listed thermostats, as well as a few other topics related to cage heating:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by se900se

so my problem and reason for non-eating might be overheating?

my undertank heater has no 'control', but what instruction says that it would heat 10 degrees more then temperature outside (which is 65F)

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These heat pads drive me nuts. Some even claim they don't need a thermostat, but members have done tests (please don't ask me to find them) where unregulated heat mats went well over 110 degrees.