would you use a rheostat/dimmer for flexwatt?

I want to get back into the hobby. I have lots of FWatt, and cords, but no thermostat. Can I get by for one cage for now using FW in a rheostat/dimmer, as long as the room stays consistently-temperatured?

You need a thermostat, no ifs ands or buts.

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Originally Posted by Rickys_Reptiles

You need a thermostat, no ifs ands or buts.

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x2 flexwatt has way to much power to be trusted to a lamp dimmer. I don't even like using flexwatt with on/off style thermostats due to how hot flexwatt can get.

While I generally agree with the above two posters, IF the room is heated to a constant temperature that doesn't fluctuate more than a few degrees a dimmer will work.

With 11,550 posts on this site I would imagine you learned a few things.

Test the setting first and you should be fine with the dimmer, at least temporarily.

Welcome back.

I use dimmers as a back up to my t-stat. If the t-stat fails on or a probe gets pushed off then the flex watt still can only get so hot. As long as you test the setting before adding the animal and the room is a constant temp you can do it. Should you? Probably not the best idea but it can be done. As for not trusting them Idk why. Most are rated for a min of 300 watts. Even using 11 inch fw you would have to run 15 feet of it to worry about maxing it out. The summers I use are rated for 600 watts but I use one for every 10 tubs in conjunction with a t-stat.

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Originally Posted by H.o.F.R

I use dimmers as a back up to my t-stat. If the t-stat fails on or a probe gets pushed off then the flex watt still can only get so hot. As long as you test the setting before adding the animal and the room is a constant temp you can do it. Should you? Probably not the best idea but it can be done. As for not trusting them Idk why. Most are rated for a min of 300 watts. Even using 11 inch fw you would have to run 15 feet of it to worry about maxing it out. The summers I use are rated for 600 watts but I use one for every 10 tubs in conjunction with a t-stat.

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I'm not worried about maxing out the dimmer... I'm worried about the flexwatt getting way too hot. The problem is that resistive heating elements just keep on getting hotter and hotter even when the amount of power being applied is reduced (lamp dimmer) As a short term solution (a few weeks) it should be ok, but I cannot in good conscience recommend it as a long term replacement for a thermostat.

Sounds like sound advice. I was more wondering about their compatibility. But I have found my old Helix, and I am am old hand at using it; just glad that I found it and do not have to worry now :) I do like the idea of using the dimmer as a backup, though

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

I'm not worried about maxing out the dimmer... I'm worried about the flexwatt getting way too hot. The problem is that resistive heating elements just keep on getting hotter and hotter even when the amount of power being applied is reduced (lamp dimmer)

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Isn't a proportional thermostat doing the same thing, restricting the power to the heat source??
I'm not a fan of dimmers but I like to hear sound advise when it comes to them.
Personally I won't use one, just curious

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

I'm not worried about maxing out the dimmer... I'm worried about the flexwatt getting way too hot. The problem is that resistive heating elements just keep on getting hotter and hotter even when the amount of power being applied is reduced (lamp dimmer) As a short term solution (a few weeks) it should be ok, but I cannot in good conscience recommend it as a long term replacement for a thermostat.

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The problem is that resistive heating elements just keep on getting hotter and hotter even when the amount of power being applied is reduced (lamp dimmer

I have a degree in electronics, please explain this to me. if I can figure out how to make a resistive heating element to heat homes that will continue to get hotter with less power (wattage) you and I will become billionaires.