Thermostat question

I've had my baby about 6 weeks now and was horrified when I realized just how hot her uth was getting. I'm new to owning snakes and thought I was doing my research before I bought her. Obviously not. After reading on here just how important having a thermostat to control the temps I checked and sure enough it was 130 degrees inside the warm hide. Ambient temps stay around 80 degrees and her cool hide was about 74 degrees. She stays in her cool hide almost all the time. Can't say I blame her after finding out I was basically offering her an oven to warm up in. Anyway, I obviously unplugged the uth right away and have spent the rest of the morning searching for a thermostat. I can't afford anything much more expensive than $50 at the moment. I see that the Hydrofarm is recommended quite often as a cheap alternative but I've also heard that it isn't the most accurate. I guess my question is, would the Hydrofarm still be a better choice than one of the cheaper thermostats I've found that are meant to be used with terrariums. I figure anything is better than nothing at this point but would still like to purchase something I can rely on until I can afford something better. Any input would be appreciated. Feel free to tell me what an idiot I've been while you're at it. I know I deserve it.

The Hydrofarm is workable and if that is all you can afford right now, that is what I'd get. Be sure to fiddle with it to make sure that the temps on the warm side are what you want (don't depend on the display). Once you get it dialed in, keep an eye on it. Then, save up and get a better thermostat when you can afford it.

When I got my first Ball Python I didn't know I needed a thermostat either. I had purchased it from a pet store and all they told me I needed was a heat pad. It wasn't until I realized my hit side temps were 134 that I ran out and bought my first Herpstat.. So don't feel too bad.

If your going to be able to afford the herpstat or a VE100 system in the next few week. The cheapest method you can go with is a lamp dimmer. It's not, by any means a permanent solution, or an ideal way to contol the heat but it's better than having them sit on that heat. They are only a few bucks, and it will regulate it enough to avoid such large numbers. If your looking at a couple of months before you can get one - your not going to be able to get a proportional thermostat.

You'll be looking at something generic like the zoomed repti-temp. It's not what I would consider a proper solution, but it was last you until you can make a purchase from spyder co or Vivarium Electronics. http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo

So let me get this straight... you snake has no heat at all and is going to be at 74ºF or colder? This is going to make the snake sick at best. They must have heat. I would use the UTH you have only make an air space 1/8 to 1/4 inch between the bottom of the enclosure to provide some heat. With no hot spot and temps in the mid to low 70s it is a serious issue.

Hydrofarms are poor at best but better than nothing. The issue is can you buy one off the shelf? I would get a working t-stat asap today would be best you are likely to have limited options but NO HEAT is a very serious issue. I had a rescue whom (came from a young girl) who on the advise of an on line forum turned off all the heat to that animal for 3 weeks while a T-stat was on order by the time the snake was taken to the vet the situation was dire, severe respiratory issues and digestion issues that ultimately caused the animals passing. Reptiles cannot survive with out heat for long.

No, she still has her heat lamp on for heat at the moment and the room she's in is climate controlled so she'll never drop below 70. Still too cold I realize but better than getting lower. I've been keeping check on her and the ambient temps are still staying right below 80 so far. So you think leaving her with temps of 130+ is best until I can get the thermostat? I know she needs belly heat as well as ambient but thought that they couldn't tell when they were being burned. Since it's already been in there so long I wanted to minimize what damage I could at this point. I've decided on getting the Hydrofarm for now and just need to get it here.

I would plug the heat pad back in, grab some wood(2x2) or something that won't melt and jack the tub or tank up an inch to two inches above the heat pad so the snake stays warm until you get the tstat.

Hydrofarms and Repti-temps "work" ok but you might save up for a better proportional thermostat if you like the temps to stay consistent.

I think what you hear about them not being accurate is wrong.
It's an on/off thermostat and all of them go up and down in temperature 4-7 degrees.
Set the temperature on it's upswing and get it to go up to about 97 when it turns off.
It will then drop to 90 to 93 degrees before turning back on and going back up to 97 before turning off again.

Measure the hot spot directly over the heat source inside of the tank/tub.

Good luck!

They should never be below 75º and even that is very cool I would say with out a hot spot 80ºF would be the coolest period. As I stated some type of spacing for the pad even a ceramic tile inside over the pad will take off 30 degrees maybe more. 70º it too cool to keep the animal healthy. Even now you are at risk of respiratory issues. Vet bills are often far more then T-stats.

I have had more than 12 hydrofarm tstats and not a single one was correct all read high by at least 1 degree and many more than this some at the max of the specs of 4ºF this inaccuracy is better than nothing however but I get the feeling you do not have the sense of urgency that the situation you have is. YOUR SNAKE NEEDS HEAT. 70º is too low with a correct hot spot some are willing to accept 75 with a correct hot spot but to my mind 77ºF is the bottom. This is with a correct hot spot.

People complain too much about hydrofarm stats. . . I'm sorry but I have used two in the past and one that I currently have on a QT area and it works just fine with a tub - let me explain something. . .

Just because the heating unit is heating up and then going off and heating up and going off, your glass and substrate act as a small conductor which will hold the heat at temperature much better than a 6 degree temperature. When my QT rack runs on a hydrofarm, the hydrofarm is set to 90, placed to the side of the flexwatt, then an IR Gun measures the internal temperatures untill they are stable at 92 on the hottest point. I then check when the hydrofarm drops off and it reads 91 with the IR gun, and then I wait till it maxes out - again 92. This is using an RBI 30.6qt 4 Stack with the hydrofarm using a quality IR gun to check the hottest points. There is NOT a huge sway. Maybe I lucked out and got good units that I could work with. I'm not sure if the probe reads entirely accurate, but it makes my tubs at optimum levels and holds true. If I was in a bind I would not hesitate honestly. But I do prefer my herpstats on dimmer mode . . .

Just wanted to give my word on the Hydrofarms.

Hey don't be so harsh on yourself! The point is you want to fix the problem. I would get the hydrofarm because a 5 degree swing is better than a snake sitting at 140 degrees F. If you do buy a hydrofarm I would buy a temp gun as well to double check the temps. I have a VE 300 and I have a temp gun too. I've heard of MANY people using hydrofarms and their snakes are fine. I think everyone here will agree that a hydrofarm is better than nothing.

Also you have to do this TODAY. You have to get a thermostat today. This is pretty much an urgent situation and your snake will get very very I'll. they come from tropical Savannas located in Africa and its quite warm there. They've adapted to living in that temperature and they will surely get sick. Good luck

The specs of the probe are 2ºC up or down then there is 3º of hysteresis and on the top is still backlash. I would not recommend one for everyday use with out something accurate (1º+/-) to replace the readout. It is a silly side point to the OP problem unless there is one in a local store waiting days or weeks with snakes at 70º is unacceptable period. If a rheostat or any t-stat is available locally that can be picked up TODAY advising them to order something is plain irresponsible. Snakes cannot be with out heat for weeks at a time.