Multiple thermostats?

How badly do you need multiple thermostats? I use the herpstat1 currently. I always seem to see posts about people having backups running.

Are they really necessary? Should i buy something just as expensive or do most people buy a cheaper backup?

I think Rich from Reptile Basics covers this topic pretty well in his FAQ:

"Safety backups - When and why they are needed

No matter how much you spend or what model/brand you get your thermostat CAN FAIL! A number of things can lead to this happening: power surges, children, overloading, rat chewing on a poorly placed probe, bad luck or karma, etc. BE READY, you can use a simple, less expensive thermostat as a back up. Odds of both failing at the same time are much, much less! In many cases this may not be needed. If careful consideration is given to the maximum heat possible to a given cage or tub you may find it impossible to get to fatal temps. In smaller tubs, like 5-12 quart sizes, you may find that even with low wattage heat tape that your tubs could potentially reach fatal temps easily! With the VE-100 as you backup and either the VE-200 or VE-300 as your primary the units will stack for a very neat, organized appearance.

Most failures we hear about are actually not failures of the thermostat, but failures of the probe. Often a probe can be dislodged with constant moving of tubs in racks or in cages. Some thermostats can not differentiate between normal circumstances and when your heat element is not working properly. The Vivarium Electronics VE-300 model comes with a full set of alarms to de activate the heat ouput and sound a loud buzzer when there is an issue. For example- with most thermostats if the probe is dislodged from the heater the thermostat will simply turn up (or on) the power, never realizing the heat element has surpassed the set point. With the VE-300 if the setpoint is not reached for more than 30 continuous minutes the alarm will let you know- and shut off the power output!"

The full herpstat1 series it is more questionable. They have (if you set it up this way) the ability to shut down if the probe is too hot (all do this) and if it becomes too cool the mechanical relay should fail off rather than typically on like most other units do. This is a huge innovation and massive step forward in tech of the industry. This unit poses the question if it is needed or not. Any other unit on the market my answer is YES it is needed. My personal feeling is with the unit set up for over and under shut down it all comes down to the heater used. If you have low wattage heaters that have relatively low max temps (I always run a controlled max temp test before the snake is added just plugging in the heater to the wall no T-stat and closely monitoring the temps. If the temp stabilizes at or below 100ºF and you have the herpstat with the mechanical relay and it is set up for over and under then no it is unlikely to be needed. If the max run test the temps hit well over the 100º mark (I have had heaters hit 170º+ I never allowed it to run higher it was still climbing at 170º yes you still should have a failsafe. The temp is too high to risk. Things can go wrong and if they do completely fail (power surge for example) it not only could kill the snakes but start a fire the risks are too great to not have a failsafe.

You should also have a surge protector for all proportional T-stats as well... FYI in case you didn't read that part in the instructions... it isn't as simple as it sounds however...
http://spyderrobotics.com/home/suppo...ppressors.html

I run backups on all my thermostats. Also, I had the electrical system redone in my reptile room so that all thermostats plug directly into an outlet. Cheap extension cords is another fail point for heating systems. There have been far too many fires in reptile rooms to be lackadaisical about safety.