Transitioning from live to f/t?

On saturday I am adopting a 4yo male ball python that I am informed is currently eating live. Since I have been an avid animal lover my whole life, I am not comfortable with killing rodents once a week and I really want to switch him over to f/t. Now, I do know a few tips and tricks to feeding a feisty herp- dipping the rodent in tuna juice and setting the rodent on a space heater for an hour or two and making it "dance" by the tail w/ tongs.

What I'm wondering is how do you transition from live --> f/t? Anyone who has done it before- I would be greatly appreciative if you gave me any advice!(:

Thanks so much!:snake:

Before I try any "tricks" with scenting or anything, I just attempt to feed f/t like I normally would

Thaw feeder, make sure feeder warm, feed with tongs/hemostats, try to feed at night in dim lighting after the snake has had 10-30 minutes of dark.

Easy peasy, transitioning from live to f/t can be very simple and may only take one shot at offering.

This is a good time of year to do it, because most ball pythons are putting on weight before breeding season. Though sometimes moving to a new home with trigger a fast, and if that starts, I'm just thankful they eat anything.

But once you've got them eating regularly, I find leading with a small live prey and following with a warmed f/t as a second helping works pretty well.

And if that doesn't work right away, it's just persistence persistence persistence. Older snakes like this one can be pretty set in their ways. So I won't starve them, but I'll only fed them a single small live prey item every two weeks or so. After they eat that, I'll dangle a nice f/t in front of them. Look what you COULD be eating! No? Too bad. I guess you only get the one little mousie today.

Thanks, i will definetly keep this in mind!(: The herp is going to come with the set-up he has been living in for awhile now (gorgeous 40 gal breeder w/ locking top and black wood stand *drools*) so I think that will help him adjust to his new home(: