Beginner and first time post got some questions...

Ok so last Thursday I rescued a small 2 foot normal ball from a guy on Craigslist. He wasn't in too bad of shape but, he was in a small 5 gallon tank. His substrate was filthy. The guy didn't feed him well. So I got him in a nice 20L tank with a 75 watt black light bulb. I picked up a dog water dish at petsmart and some grape vine. He went through a bad shed which I took care of. It looks like an eyecap stayed on. I took him to my local reptile store nd they told me to mist him down once a day with some water as the eyecap looks like it is cracked. I have a half log hide on the cool side and a clear plastic hide covered with some plastic foliage on the hot side with the dog bowl (which he can climb under) in the middle. I fed him last Thursday and am going to tomorrow night again. Here is the problem. He doesn't move too much. He kinda just stays under the dog bowl. I think this might be a problem because When I handle him he is cold. He doesn't seem to go to the hot or cool side. Also 72 hours after I fed him he vomited. I didn't handle Him for 48 hours after I fed. And he ate like a champ. I dunno It seems like he is in overall good health and that's what the guy at the pet store said and he owns a few. He seems happy but I want to make sure my little buddy is super well taken care of after his last owner. Any suggestions? I forgot temp is good at mid to high 80s on hot side and mid to low 70s on cool with around a 60 to 70 percent humidity

Your temps are a little off yhey should be high 80s to about 90 on the hot side and the low 80s on the cool side.

I would also try making his hides identical and not the log kind, they like having one way in and out. Also maybe black oyt 3 of the sides to make him feel more secure.

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Hey! Welcome to BP.net and congrats on your new python.

Don't worry about the retained eye-cap, leave it and it will come off next shed.

Hides: I would switch it up to ensure that you have two identical hides on both the hot and cool sides of your tank. Having two identical hides allows your snake to thermoregulate properly. Identical hides prevent your snake from picking where they feel safest over where they feel most comfortable.

Water Dish: Often, a ball python will pick security over comfort and this is most likely why your python has chosen to stay under the dog bowl. I'd scrap that for a normal flat bottom water dish.

Tempertaure/Heat: Get an UTH (Under Tank Heater) to provide some belly heat, make sure it is regulated with some sort of thermostst or rheostat though. Unregulated heatsources can be very dangerous to your snake!! Your hot side should be at 90. Cool side around 80. Low 70's is way too cold and can cause health issues.

Feeding/Handling: Get your husbandry up and let your snake settle in for atleast a week with minimal handling. The move and the seemingly skcthy environment the snake came from has probably caused some stress so it is best to let him sort himself out. Feed appropriately sized prey items (a bit bigger then the thickest part of your snake or 15% its weight) on a 5 to 7 day schedule and do not handle until theyhave eaten 3 or 4 consecutive meals. After that wait you standard 24 hours to handle.

Security: Like PorcelainxDoll said, With the glass aquarium I find it helps to block or cover the sides and back to allow your snake the added sense of security.

Check out the caresheet and enjoy your new snake!

How are you measuring your temps, they are a bit low? Is the heat only from the lamp or do you have a UTH? How are you controlling the temps? How much does he weigh, what type and how large is the prey you are feeding? Ball pythons do not move much(at least during the day), so sitting in its hide all day is normal. Also pictures pictures pictures, the setup, the snake etc.

Agreed the temps are low the warm spot (90ºF does not feel HOT to us humans so I like to say warm spot as some misunderstand hot is referring to snake temps not ours and decide that 120º feels right...) A small increase her would help a touch but low 70s are more of a concern they need to be warmer I would guess that the ambient AIR temp (not surface) is also low. It should be around 80º as well give or take a couple of degrees.

What are you using to measure temps with? Where are you measuring them?

I will post some pics later I measure the temps at the bottom with 2 different digital thermometers with the probes on top of the substrate. The humidity is an analog gage in the top middle. I only use a lamp because the guy at the store said they sell them but they only suggest lamp lighting because it mimics natural heat.

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Originally Posted by darthkevin

I will post some pics later I measure the temps at the bottom with 2 different digital thermometers with the probes on top of the substrate. The humidity is an analog gage in the top middle. I only use a lamp because the guy at the store said they sell them but they only suggest lamp lighting because it mimics natural heat.

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I agree with everyone who posted above.
And the thing about natural heat is that ball pythons use mostly belly heat in the wild. They're nocturnal animals, so they seldom venture out in daylight. They mostly rely on the warm earth and rocks. Plus Africa is just an overall warm place ambient temp wise.

And the regurgitation was most likely due to the low temps. Higher temps assist digestion. If he vomits again, do not feed him for another 2 weeks. Vomiting is a stressful process that could be physically damaging to a snake. The 2 weeks allows him time to recover and de-stress.

And like everyone said, try to minimize handling until he starts eating more consistently. He just needs time to adjust to his new environment.
Moving to a bigger tank can sometimes be overwhelming for a new snake. Especially one that has lived in a 5 gallon his entire life.

Good luck!
It sounds like you're on the right track and that the snake is in a better home.

Ok I will opt for a UTH some new hides and a new water bowl. I am working on a limited budget meaning I already paid a bunch of money for the cage and such. What kind of UTH should I get? What kind of thermostat should I get? As for hides I know I can use like small plastic bowls, but I found some dirt cheap terra cotta pots at Walmart, would those be ok? If they are ok, how would I go about making the entrance hole for the hide so it isn't sharp and hurt the poor little guy? I have also raised the temps so I will update on that later. I do fun I have trouble keeping the cool side cool. Any suggestions on that? Pics to follow later tonight when he is feeding.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by darthkevin

Ok I will opt for a UTH some new hides and a new water bowl. I am working on a limited budget meaning I already paid a bunch of money for the cage and such. What kind of UTH should I get? What kind of thermostat should I get? As for hides I know I can use like small plastic bowls, but I found some dirt cheap terra cotta pots at Walmart, would those be ok? If they are ok, how would I go about making the entrance hole for the hide so it isn't sharp and hurt the poor little guy? I have also raised the temps so I will update on that later. I do fun I have trouble keeping the cool side cool. Any suggestions on that? Pics to follow later tonight when he is feeding.

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If you're on a budget, look into a hydrofarm thermostat. I think they can be found on amazon.

If you have the money, I'd recommend a herpstat.

http://www.spyderrobotics.com

Any UTH should work. Aim for one that covers 1/3 of the floor of the tank. Do not use one without a thermostat!

Most use plastic planter pots for hides. Just solder out an entrance, and melt down any sharp edges.

His vomiting sounds like stress. He went from a dump to a condo. Fix the temps and the humidityis fine and cap should drop next shed. If it doesnt , place him in a plastic lidded tub, vented and the humidity should build to take care of it