Heating Question - Zoo Med Heat Cable

I am trying to help out my son and have been reading through the threads, but have a question. He just switched from a 10gal tank to a 26X18X7 sterlite tub. He will be working this summer to buy or build an enclosure/rack. We are having difficulty getting the temp stabilized. We are using a 25w cable. Even on the lowest setting the hot side was 95.8. I switched this morning from a Zoo Med rheostat to a Home Depot Dimmer, hoping that would help.

Currently, the cable is attached to the bottom of the tub and we are using Aspen substrate. Our house temp is 76/77. Do you think we should attach the cable to a ceramic tile or something else and sit the tub on it instead of attaching directly to the tub?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I'm not a big fan of heat cable, I much prefer heating pads (UTH's)

either should have a thermostat to regulate their temperature.

Here are 2 good ones. Don't waste your money on the ones sold in pet stores, they are overpriced, and short lived.

The hydrofarm thermostat, these are sold on Amazon for $30 and are considered the cheapest thermostat that actually works

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

The Herpstat is the best of the best, these cost more but are safer, more accurate, and have more features/capabilities. (these are what I use)

http://spyderrobotics.com/

Welcome to BP.net. If you haven't yet, I would suggest that you read our care sheet: http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

one more thing to add to what aaron said:

Heres a link to good uth's. ive never used uth's but the ones in the pet stores dont seem to be as good as these.

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads

You have to use a thermostat, dimmers and rheostats are unreliable and can only work correctly if the room temps are 100% stable which is nearly impossible.

I am always surprised when folks cheap out on the most important part of the set up which is the thermostat. In the long run a $75 Ranco or Johnson Tstat is alot cheaper and less painful than a vet visit.

Heat rope is fine as I have used it and Flexxwatt for years but either one won't work correctly without a Tstat;)

I actually use that same cable. I like it a lot but it as suggested needs to be used with a T-stat. With a single tub like what you are describing I actually like to use the heat applied to a sheet of glass and the tub placed on top of that. It allows easier cleaning and even heat. This also will generate less swing if you use a on/off t-stats like Johnson or hydrofarm. Make sure you don't have more than 1/3 of the bottom covered.

Aaron and Mike,

2 questions.

Aaron, Which model of the Spyder do you use? The basic $99 or the model 1? I'll be using it with a 40 breeder tank.

Mike, I saw those UTH's and was wondering what you and Aaron thought would be best for my (my son's) setup.

The tank is 36" W 18" deep and 16" high

I want to redo my setup before we travel.

Also would you use ANY bulbs if you had a UTH or it that usually all you need?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gio

Aaron and Mike,

2 questions.

Aaron, Which model of the Spyder do you use? I'll be using it with a 40 breeder tank.

Mike, I saw those UTH's and was wondering what you and Aaron thought would be best for my setup.

The tank is 36" W 18" deep and 16" high

I want to redo my setup before we travel.

Also would you use ANY bulbs if you had a UTH or it that usually all you need?

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I use the herpstat 4, but that is because I have multiple cages...

for a single 40 gallon I would get the herpstat 1 (or 2 if you need to use a heat lamp as well)

I would get a UTH that covers about 1/3rd of the bottom of your tank. attach the thermostat probe to the UTH in-between the UTH and the bottom of the tank.

IF your room ever gets below 75 degrees you will need a heat lamp as well as UTH's do not change the air temperature in the cage. if this is the case as I said above I would get the herpstat 2 so the heat lamp only runs when needed to keep the air temperature in the cage correct (around 80 degrees is best) I would use an infrared bulb for this.

Thank you so much for your quick replies. Since we already have the cable, I think I will apply it to the glass as recommended and order one of the good thermostats today. In the meantime, I have a Zilla thermostat that I will use until the new one arrives.

I will keep the ultratherm heat mats in mind for the future.

Again, I really appreciate the help.

Thanks Aaron,

I'll have to order one of those. My wife is going to kill me!!! Just to clarify the probe on the Stat is inside the tank under the substrate? The UTH pad is outside on the bottom (obviously). Do you use electrical tape to keep the probe in place?

Or do I have it all wrong and the probe is actually stuck to the UTH pad on the underside of the tank?

FYI thanx for advice last night. Humidity is up to 70% today (will back it down to 60's) and the hot side is 91-92 with the smaller infrared bulb. Thermometer remote is sitting under the light and on top of the undersized UTH. 81 mid tank 76 on cool side.

That sound OK for now?

Sounds ok, the probe should be attached directly to the UTH. It will be sandwiched in-between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. (on the outside of the tank)

Never use tape inside of the cage, if your snake gets stuck to the tape he/she can get badly injured.

If you need to attach something inside the cage I would suggest that you use hot melt glue.