Ambient temp vs belly temp

Hey all,

First I wana say this forum has helped me out greatly by just reading and doing research and has been a wealth of knowledge. Planning on getting a ball python in about two weeks and just getting everything set up for now. Breif overivew of set up:
20 gal long tank, insulated on three sides
UTH heater with Hydrofarm thermostat set up to temp of 93.
Overhead dimmable clamp light with 100 watt IR bulb.
Screen top covered with homemade mdf shelve cut to spec with vent holes and hole for overhead light.
Have the accurite set on substrate floor on cold side near hide.
Now the question. I have been fine tuning temps for two days now. I am happy with the cold side readings between 78-80 all day and night. I have been moving around the accurite probe on hot side to see where temps are at throughout the day. My ambient temps on hot side near hide are reading usually around 85 to 86 on substrate level. Moving the probe around alot I have gotten higher temps of course higher up near the climbing branch. I am just wondering if I have a uth with underbelly temp at 92, do I need to work to get my ambient temps on hot side near 88-90 or is it fine to have abmient air temps on hot side around 85-86. What do u guys try to keep your amibent temps on hot side at. Thanks in advance for all the help.
Also just wondering I have had temps as high as 104 right about IR bulb and lamp on climbing branch about 6 inches directly below lamp, are those acceptable. I hope I am not overthinking this just wana get it right.

My ambient temp is the same across my whole tub, 80-81 degrees. I have a 90 degree hot spot created by heat tape, but that doesn't raise my ambient temp in my tubs.

Btw welcome to Bp.net......:D

If the UTH is providing the basking temperature of approxametly 90 degrees then the ambiant temperature can be the same as the cool side temperatures (78-82 degrees)

I would also just like to warn you that MDF isn't the best choice for this. MDF doesn't handle humidity well and can have harmful chemicals in it.

Thanks guys for the quick replies. Thanks for the tip on MDF. I will def be looking to upgrade to plexiglass hopefully before we get one. So it seems like since I have the hot/spot underbelly heat at 92 it seems like I dont need the ambient temp on hot side so high. This will make life easier for sure.

Ambient air temps should not be over 85º generally with out going into biology it will impede digestion. Generally accepted ambient temps would be 78-85º I tend to avoid the ends and try to hit 80-81º I have a few set ups that naturally ramp during the day (ambient temps only) from 78-84 but this is not necessary just tweaking on my part. Air temps are not the same as surface temps!

Thanks for the info kitedemon. Ok just a quick question then, if my accurite probe is on the substrate floor for testing right now, should I try to keep temps around 88 to 90 outside of the hide as well. I know my hide has the uth under it which will give me 92. Or should I not worry to much about what the substrate temps outside the hotside hide will be. Just wondering. Also I am still wondering about the high temp right over the lamp on the climbing branch six inches below reading around 104 or 105. Is that to hot or acceptable. Cant wait to get a bp just want everything right when I do. Thanks.

No I would only be concerned with the temps inside the hide 90 is fine 92 is ok but personally i like to stay 89-91 mostly due to the variations that are inevitable.

Here are my temps, inside the hot hide is 90º out side the hot hide the floor is 88º, three inches above the floor is 84º. The temp middle of the enclosure (exact middle up/down/left/right/front/back) is 81º The cool hide inside is 80º and out side at the floor is 79º three inches up is 81º the temps gain about 1º every 2 inches or so, until you get to the hot side.

Trying to get yours the same is not the point. The goal is to build an enclosure that has two or more micro climates. The inside hot hide should be one climate it is often drier than the cool one and has importantly higher temps by basically 10º. The cool one often has higher RH and lower temps. Often the cool hide is one temp the warm hide a second and everything else is the ambient air temp. Not a true gradient but acceptable.

I do not often use gradient as it is very hard to achieve usually there is just a drop off hot to cool. It cane be done but it takes tones of practice and very careful enclosure set up and I have never managed with a tub at all. Gradients are not important just providing a inside hide temp hot and cool and a reasonable ambient air temp that allows easier core temps for the snake. If you are interested ask and I'll explain it is a long explanation I'll save my fingers.

I think I have it down now, thanks kitedemon and everyone else for the quick answers and help. Now I just cant wait to get the snake, the wait is killing me.

LOL, i just posted a nearly identical thread. Didn't even see this one!