Still not eating =(

My little rescue snake is still not eating =/ I assist fed him last Monday and I didn't have any luck with him eating or letting me assist this week. The previous owner said he had him for about 7 months and was force feeding him a pinkie every other week.

As of last week before I fed him he was 85 grams. I have him in a shoe boxed size plastic tub with a hide on one side with his water bowl. Hot side at 90, cool side 87. Trying to feed fuzzy mice.

Does that sound alright for a set up?
Is a vet visit in order?

Any advice Would be much appreciated!

Next week I plan on scenting the room and making sure the fuzzie extra warm.

Thanks guys!

Here's a picture from the day I got him
http://img.tapatalk.com/c6e4dc4c-624b-fb83.jpg


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Force feeding should always be used as a last result so no more of that; you're just going to stress him out more.

I would suggest putting a live fuzzy in there next week and see how he reacts. Sometimes the littler BPs are picky when it comes to their meals and live is much more tempting than dead in most cases.

I would also probably put him in a 28 qt with two separate hides on hot and cold. What are is your humidity like?

I'd try leaving a live hopper mouse in with him in his enclosure over night. Any problem feeders I've ever had this has worked for. Are you removing him to feed him in a separate tub or anything? A hopper mouse CANNOT hurt him overnight.

Next feeding day place your snake in a brown paper bag put a LIVE hopper mouse with him, close the bag and place it back in the enclosure for a few hours.

This might be what you need to do the trick, I use this method on hatchlings that refuse to eat on their own and it generally works.

In the mean time NO handling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubaf250

Hot side at 90, cool side 87. Trying to feed fuzzy mice.



Http://Yourtwocentsworth.com

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Your temps are off. Typically balls will not eat if too hot or too cool. small snakes like your really need a proper gradient. and often do better with slightly lower hot spots. The big concern is 87ºF is WAY too hot for a cool end temp!! 80ºF is correct and 78-82º a fair working range. 90ºF is ok smaller snakes often do better a touch cooler 88-90ºF but it is the cool end temp that is concerning.

Sounds good guys thanks, I'll see about getting a larger box. I'll be able to fit another hide and that should also fix the temp problem.

Humidity is sitting around 60% right now.

The hopper mice won't try to bite him?


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You must have a gradient 87 to 90 is not a gradient it is unlikely the snake will eat too with these temps.

check the care sheet!

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubaf250

The hopper mice won't try to bite him?

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No, a hopper mouse can't hurt him. Anything older/larger than that should be supervised when feeding live, though.

I would try a small rat pup/pinkie in the enclosure overnight. Small pup/pinkie, will have its eyes closed and you won't have to worry about it hurting him. Make sure tub is not out in the open where he is getting stressed. If so, cover 3 sides of tub/box. Also, trying a rat maybe offering different prey item may be enough to do the trick. He should not have been force fed that much, all it does is stress them out big time. Obviously we dont want him to starve, but there are so many other things to try first. Good luck with the little guy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DrDooLittle

I would try a small rat pup/pinkie in the enclosure overnight. Small pup/pinkie, will have its eyes closed

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Actually what you refer as pup will not have their eyes closed pups are the size of an adult mouse are 2 weeks old and gave their eyes open way too large additionally, when a very young hatchling does not eat he will respond better to mice.

To the op do not offer a larger enclosure, 6 quarts should be your maximum, switch to aspen bedding if you haven't already, and one hide such as small plastic flower pot saucer will be enough, and try the brown paper bag method.