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JCP not eating

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  • 11-19-2011, 02:51 PM
    dragonrider
    JCP not eating
    My baby jcp isn't and hasn't for a little over 2 months. I'm really worried something is wrong, even though he looks fine. The cage is about 15 gallons, it has eco earth in it, branches for climbing and a water dish, the temp is about 87 on the hotside, he does not have a hide but the person i got him from (the owner of a reputable reptile store) said he didn't need one. I have tried to feed him about every week-week 1/2. Anyone know what might be wrong, any help would be appreciated.
  • 11-19-2011, 03:00 PM
    dart
    JCP's not eating is not very common. They tend to have very strong feeding responses. Even though they love to perch, it's always best to offer them a hide. Mine all have them and all use them. Majority of the time they will perch on top of the hide or braches etc, but use them after eating and during sheds mostly. A little more info would be nice though, such as how old/large is the snake, what type of meals are you offering, whether mice or rats, is the snake losing weight, frozen thawed or live, etc. More information will help us help you!
  • 11-19-2011, 03:46 PM
    dragonrider
    Re: JCP not eating
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dart View Post
    JCP's not eating is not very common. They tend to have very strong feeding responses. Even though they love to perch, it's always best to offer them a hide. Mine all have them and all use them. Majority of the time they will perch on top of the hide or braches etc, but use them after eating and during sheds mostly. A little more info would be nice though, such as how old/large is the snake, what type of meals are you offering, whether mice or rats, is the snake losing weight, frozen thawed or live, etc. More information will help us help you!

    The snake has not really lost any weight. I have been trying to feed him frozen thawed rat pups,as he was started on rats. the snake is under a year old and a little over 2 feet long, rat pups are what I was told to feed him. The snake is not lethargic at all, he is pretty aggressive.
  • 11-19-2011, 04:46 PM
    dart
    Give him a hide to start, that always make the snake feel more secure. I just cut cardboard boxes and use them. Free=THEWIN. Try feeding live and see if he'll eat that way. Rat pups are a great thing to have carpets on because sometimes they can be tough to switch from mice to rats. If he doesn't want a live rat pup, try a hopper mouse. I personally haven't had one of my jungles refuse a meal yet, but with their feeding responses I'd definitely think live would remedy a picky eater.
  • 11-19-2011, 06:44 PM
    Clementine_3
    About 87 on the hot side? How are you heating the tank and what are you using to measure the temperature? Is that the warmest spot/hotspot or an ambient temp?
    87 is a bit cool IMO.

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
  • 11-20-2011, 01:49 AM
    dragonrider
    We moved him to a different room and now hes about 90 on the hotside, i use an U.T.H. I can't feed live rats, i live in Alberta where they're illegal. However i have been thinking of trying live mice.
  • 11-20-2011, 02:16 AM
    mainbutter
    Re: JCP not eating
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Clementine_3 View Post
    About 87 on the hot side? How are you heating the tank and what are you using to measure the temperature? Is that the warmest spot/hotspot or an ambient temp?
    87 is a bit cool IMO.

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

    Do you keep carpet pythons? Two of the biggest myths regarding this species is that they 'need' high humidity (especially 24/7 high humidity) and high temperatures.
  • 11-20-2011, 02:24 AM
    mainbutter
    As for feeding tricks, I have a few that might help!

    1) Get a hide. They aren't 'necessary' for many carpet pythons, but most WILL use one if provided. I get a good feeding reaction out of one of my pickier animals if he's in his hide and can 'ambush' a F/T prey that's near his hide entrance.

    2) Feed at night. Wait until after lights out, try to keep as many lights off as you can except for the minimum ambient lighting for you to see well enough to feed. This is especially a good idea for a snake that starts roaming after lights out.

    3) Feed warm prey. Get that feeder thawed and warmed, you'll want it at least human body temperature, you can go a good bit warmer and still be safe to feed. Most python species rely on their heat pits for hunting, and a heat source can trigger a reaction strike-and-coil.

    4) Use long hemostats. Get your large heat signature further away, I know I'd be intimidated if I was eating in front of godzilla.
  • 11-20-2011, 03:04 AM
    Clementine_3
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mainbutter View Post
    Do you keep carpet pythons? Two of the biggest myths regarding this species is that they 'need' high humidity (especially 24/7 high humidity) and high temperatures.

    I do.
    I didn't say they need high temperatures, just that I thought 87 was a bit too cool. I also tried to find out from the OP what the temp really was and how it was monitored, if at all.
    When a snake isn't eating husbandry is the first thing to check. If it's not right then that could be the problem right there.
    I have read many a care sheet and realize there is good and not so good info out there. There is never anything wrong with clarification questions...thanks for pointing out what I already knew though.
    OP, hopefully you can get your little guy squared away and eating.

    Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
  • 11-20-2011, 01:23 PM
    dragonrider
    Ok thanks, i will try using your guys' tips hopefully it works.
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