28qt rack help

I'm hoping to build a 10-bin 28qt rack ASAP.

It works out so that I should be able to get all 10 shelves out of one sheet of melamine. So HOPEFULLY that part will only cost me $30 + taxes. So a couple questions:

1) For the sides I was either going to use (4) 2" x 4"s. BUT they're pretty bulky and ugly. Would it be an alright idea to use (4) 1" x 3"s? Would that be able to support the weight of (10) 24" x 17" melamine shelves or would it be too flimsy?

2) Should I use 1/2" melamine or is 5/8"s better?

3) Do I need to worry about any bowing with a shelf of only 17" x 24"?

I am not going to be enclosing the sides of the rack to a) cut down on weight, and b) cut down on costs. If i can get this done with 1 sheet of melamine I'll be happier than a pig in...you know.

I'm also going to use a separate piece of 4" flexwatt on each shelf and wire them in parallel. I don't want to weave 1 long piece of flexwatt between the shelves as that would just waste $ on heating the flexwatt that's touching open air. Sooo more questions:

4) What increments can I cut the 4" flexwatt in? I've heard that you can cut on the black lines, but you need to insulate it. What do I do this with? Does the silver foil tape work as insulation or do I need to insulate it and then secure it down with the foil tape?

5) Do racks without enclosed sides waste $ on heating? Like I said I'm going to have the flexwatt in such a way that all pieces of it are covered by the tub being heated, so I hope that is as effective as having closed sides.

Hmmm I think that's all my questions, thanks for anybody that can help! I will post photos once this is done. (Hopefully early November)

I can help with 1, 2, and 3.

Use 1x4's, they'll cost you maybe $10 and with 2 screws in each your front to back stability will be fine. Better yet, make your shelves 18.5x24 and use 8 1x4's - 4 solid and the other four cut to the height of the tubs and used as spacers nailed and glued to the solid uprights. This is a cheap and easy way to make dadoes. Your rack will be much more solid this way.

BTW, you're only going to have a 9 tub rack with 1 sheet. You always need one extra shelf to cover the top bin.

3/4 melamine would be best, but 5/8 would work. 1/2 would be too thin imo.

If you use 3/4, bowing wont be a problem. 1/2 will, and 5/8 might.

Don't forget to add a back (1/8 hardboard would be good.)

Can't help on the flexwatt. I always had RBI cut and wire mine.

foil tape will not insulate....it is metal and will conduct.
electric tape is what you would use to insulate;)
you cut flex watt between the lines in the clear part

On the flexwatt if you use one continuous piece you have only 2 connections to worry about instead of 18. Just a thought.

Thanks everyone!

Strick the reason I don't want to do a continuous piece of flex watt is that there would be about 6" between tubs that just wouldn't be heating anything but the air.

I did find some flex watt soldering videos on YouTube this morn so I think I've got that part covered. We have some old stuff here that I'm going to practice on.

And I did realize I can only fit 9 bins this way but I'm just going to set a bin w/ lid on the top shelf. That way I can even keep a few (corn snake) hatchling bins up top if I need to.

Was hoping to get this done soon but now my boyfriend dislocated his shoulder so I don't know who will help me. I'll still post pics when it's done, just might take awhile

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zn394

I can help with 1, 2, and 3.

Use 1x4's, they'll cost you maybe $10 and with 2 screws in each your front to back stability will be fine. Better yet, make your shelves 18.5x24 and use 8 1x4's - 4 solid and the other four cut to the height of the tubs and used as spacers nailed and glued to the solid uprights. This is a cheap and easy way to make dadoes. Your rack will be much more solid this way.

BTW, you're only going to have a 9 tub rack with 1 sheet. You always need one extra shelf to cover the top bin.

3/4 melamine would be best, but 5/8 would work. 1/2 would be too thin imo.

If you use 3/4, bowing wont be a problem. 1/2 will, and 5/8 might.

Don't forget to add a back (1/8 hardboard would be good.)

Can't help on the flexwatt. I always had RBI cut and wire mine.

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is it necessary to add a back? i was planning on using a 1" x 2" running down the back to stop the tubs from sliding right through.

That would work, but run it at an angle - say top left to bottom right. Otherwise you will have no side to side stability.

5/8 melamine shelves will not bow under the weight of the snake. I am currently building two 28qt racks using 5/8 black melamine. I actually got 12 shelf pieces out of one sheet. If you are careful with your cuts and cut the right way its a breeze. Remember melamine sheets are 97" x 49". That extra inch goes a long way. My racks will be 1166%3 shelves and of course the top.

That should read 11 shelves. Darn phone adds what it wants when it wants.

You sure your getting 11 and not 10.

When i cut shelves out of melamine for 28qt rack their cut 23x17 and i can only get 10 pieces with only 1" strip in middle and 11" left over on end