My Low Cost DIY

Before:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0986.jpg
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0984.jpg


After:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0991.jpg


Needed Materials:

Medical Equipment Cabinet (Metal) - $0

Dry Wall Corner-Bead - $1.50 per 10 feet; Depending on rack dimensions you will need a various amount of this. My rack is 17" deep by 36" wide, so I picked up 3 pieces. - Around $5.00

1/4 inch paneling (Or thicker - No thinner!) - $20 per sheet (1 sheet is plenty)

Sterilite Tubs - I am using four 34qt tubs, and three 15qt. tubs - Around $40

Thermostat - Herpstat w/ Grounded Cords - $120

Heat Tape - 10ft. - $20


Optional Materials:

Non-Toxic Paint - $5

Weather-Stripping as a "Guide Rail" - $5

(Totals exclude Optional Materials)
Total - $205

(If you have a Thermostat, Tubs, and Heat Tape before-hand)
Total - $25



Notice: Any metal/wood cabinet in this style frame will work


Assembly:

1. Cut the 1/4" paneling into desired size, with about 1/8"-2/8" extra shaved off, just to help get the shelving into the unit.

2. Install one shelf/all shelves at a time
(Depending on the height of your unit, you may have to install all shelves at the same time, otherwise you will not be able to fit them in later.)

3. Place tubs under your first shelf.

4. Install the corner bead at a right angle - You want half of the corner bead connected to the side of the unit, and half below the shelf supporting it.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0993.jpg

5. Bolt in the Corner-Bead. Use a drill with the needed size according to the size of your bolts. Secure the bolts with nuts and or washers.

6. Repeat steps 1-5 until all shelves are placed.


Heating:
I purchased a Herpstat and ten feet of Flexwatt Heat Tape. I wired mine a little differently than I have previously seen it done -
This makes it a little simpler, at least for me.

1. Purchase a Terminal Block
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...panelmount.jpg
The black models in this picture tend to be a little sturdier and easier to deal with.

2. Now, with the plug-in you would normally use to wire directly into your flexwatt (with the top cut, and plug intact), cross the split end of the wire into the terminal. With wire "x" in port one and wire "y" in port three.

3. Now, go ahead and solder up your flexwatt: I used two separate wires to do this, and then wired them into the corresponding ports ("x"=1 and "y"=3) that my plug side is now wired into. This will connect the two wires, think of the green wire, and the ""plug-in" wire now being one; through the terminal. This can be done with up to six strands of 4" heat tape on this specific terminal. Be sure to read the manufacturers suggestions.

This is the flexwatt on the bottom shelf, I put a small hole in the shelf above it to poke the wiring through.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0997.jpg

Now, this is a picture of the terminal with the wires connected - Be sure to insulate the terminal well, electrical tape will work, but a plastic cover is suggested.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/...P/100_0996.jpg



Notice: This rack should not be exposed to too much weight, as the shelving is thin. No more than 20 pounds per shelf.

is it just an illusion or are your shelves bowing pretty bad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OhhWatALoser

is it just an illusion or are your shelves bowing pretty bad?

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It will bow about 1/8" since there is no central support and it is only paneling - with a snake, bowl, and hides. But an 1/8" is something I can live with; doesn't run into any serious problems.

Very nice mate :)

Thats a great method for wiring your flexwatt. I've never even thought of trying thata way....Thanks for the idea.

For the price of the paneling, the corner bead, the weather stripping, and the paint ($35) you could have bought a sheet of melamine and some screws and made something 10x better.

I will give you props for trying something new and not cheaping out on the thermostat.