Rack plans... For free!!!!

This is a rack I built this weekend. It's made for the 28 quart sterilite bins from Wal mart.:gj:

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/fdd5229c.jpg

It's a ten shelf rack. I built it to be perfect for my needs and it should be perfect for yours. The heat tape was purchased from the bean farm and everything else was purchased from Rona.

Needed:
-140" of 4" heat tape - cut into 14" lengths
-2 sheets of 4x8 5/8" thick melamine - cut into 12 pieces at 16 1/4 x 22 3/4 and 2 pieces at 22 3/4 x 70
-3 of the $1.99 extension cords
- 3 boxes of ring terminals (make sure they fit the wire and the screw)
- 2 boxes of thumb tacks (the kind with flat heads
- 1 roll electrical tape
- 1 box of 3/4" #8 particle board screws
- 1 box of 1 1/2" #8 particle board screws

Tools
- jigsaw, handsaw, scroll saw, table saw
- power drill
- 5/64 drill bit
- countersink
- red Robertson screwdriver - power drill bit
- wire strippers, utility knife
- crimping tool, adjustable wrench
- permanent marker
- cardboard (for jig)

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/ce6d0b9e.jpg

All together on supplies and wood and the cuts were done at Rona I spent $107.00. Haven't bought the bins yet and had the heat tape and thermostat laying around.

1) Start off by cutting the heat tape into 14" sections.
2) cut off the end of extension cord that you plug stuff into as close to the plug as possible. On all 3.
3) starting at the cut end go through and cut the extension cords into 3 25" long pieces each.
4) split the 5 open ends of the cut up extension cord about 4"
5) strip the coating of each open end so it will fit into the ring terminal opening

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/86e6d4d1.jpg

I use a three shelf method. Bottom three shelves are wired to a plug, middle three, top three, and very top one is by itself. So for the wires you want to crimp the ring terminals onto one end of a piece of the extension cord that has two ends open with out the plug. Then twist the opposite two ends to another piece of extension cord and put a ring terminal over the two twisted ends. Then the third shelf same idea but instead of putting on an open ended wire use the plug. Don't forget to electrical tape all your connections around the blue part of the terminal up to the wire. The only exposed steel on the connection should be the actual ring itself of the terminal.

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/7c4a67ed.jpg

Now that the Prep is done, were ready to start to put it together! Measure 3.5 inches up from the bottom of the shelf and make a line. Then center the 14" piece of heat tape on the line and draw another line. Should look like this.

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/2a75d3c0.jpg

Now you have to do this 10 times! I made a jig...

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/f3b011da.jpg

Now place your heat tape in the lines you drew (steel side up) and use 4 thumb tacks to hold it into place. Then on the right hand side drill two holes 5/64 diameter just shy of all the way through. This part is important! Drill through the shiny steel edges of the tape and into the wood. Then connect your two ring terminals using the 3/4" screws. It should look like this.

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/3445c29f.jpg

Now after Doing this for every shelf you should have 4 stacks of shelves wired and ready to go! 3 stacks of 3 shelves and one shelf wired into a plug by itself.

Now comes the easy part! Putting it together!

1) put a shelf standing vertical on the ground (one without heat tape) and lay the 22 3/4 x 70" piece on top. Make it as square as possible. I used a box on the opposite end of the 70" peice to hold it at 90 degrees.

2) drill three holes evenly spaced (warning! Dont drill closer then about an inch to the sides or it will split!) through the 70" piece and the top shelf, then countersink, then screw it together.

3) place the top shelf ( the shelf with only one plug) under the top with a 5 3/4" gap between the shelves. Then follow step 2 to put it in.

After you have all the shelves in line rotate the shelf so the other side is up. Place the other 70" piece on top and screw the piece into place.

Then go to the bottom of the self. Measure the gap left at the very bottom of the side you already screwed together. Make the same gap on the opposite side and screw the bottom together. Then screw together the shelves again with the 5 3/4" gap in mind again.

I found it easier to do one screw down one whole side then go to the opposite side and do one screw down that whole side. Then the middle just to be safe.

Now go through with electrical tape and cover the ends of the heat tape, the screw terminals, the thumb tacks, and any exposed steel/ wires on each shelf.

After you're done, cut the 12th shelf to create your kickboard at the base of the shelf!

It should look like this:

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/dd396818.jpg
http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/abf44506.jpg
http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/f63ebc41.jpg




Any questions just ask!:gj:

Nice write up, althought I build my racks with 1x4 sides (much lighter) but my question is, do you get a good electrical contact just drilling thru the shiny steel edges? I really like that idea, it would save from soldering. Again, very nice DIY and write up. :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jben

Nice write up, althought I build my racks with 1x4 sides (much lighter) but my question is, do you get a good electrical contact just drilling thru the shiny steel edges? I really like that idea, it would save from soldering. Again, very nice DIY and write up. :gj:

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Thanks jben!

I wish I could build them with the 1x4 sides... I live in Canada though and it gets awfully cold in the winter lol.

The contact on the terminals is perfect! I tested every shelf and they all get the same heat as a test piece I soldered. I plugged them both into the wall and used my temp gun to test. I like it better this way because the heat tape is completely transferable! If you ever decide to build a new rack or w/e just take it off and put it in the new spot. It's also hella easy to do lol.

Got the edging done, back on, and tubs in!

http://i972.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/ec5c0342.jpg

How much room does that design leave the tubs side to side? I plan on doing the same design but was only going to make them 16" wide instead of 16.25". Do you think it would still work?

Walmart list these tubs as

Product in Inches (L x W x H): 23.125 x 16.875 x 6.375

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Powerspythons

How much room does that design leave the tubs side to side? I plan on doing the same design but was only going to make them 16" wide instead of 16.25". Do you think it would still work?

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I have the same type rack, my shelves are 16", perfect fit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snakesRkewl

Walmart list these tubs as

Product in Inches (L x W x H): 23.125 x 16.875 x 6.375

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Those dimensions are with the lid on.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by llovelace

I have the same type rack, my shelves are 16", perfect fit

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Thanks, I figured it'd be a perfect fit or a tight fit. :) :gj:

Wal marts dimensions are way off, even with the lid on. The 16" thing is pretty awesome though! I had no idea.