A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I posted a while back about my 2006 female normal that won't eat. I have tried f/t, pre-killed, live, mice, rats, and asfs. I have tried the zombie rodent dance, leaving it in her tub for an hour (only f/t and p/k), leaving it in her tub overnight (only f/t and p/k), pre-scenting her cage (leaving the rodent on top of the rack as she is in the top tub). And still, nothing is working. She is losing weight and beginning to get that triangle shape to her. Temperatures are always within normal limits (90-94), with the temperature mostly staying around 92. It will dip down and up depending on room temperature. Nothing has changed in her husbandry.
These were taken not too long ago.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...113_153211.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...113_153245.jpg
This was her yesterday.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r...125_154913.jpg
I was talking with the owner of a reptile store about her and gave him her info as far as weight, housing, and her eating habits. He recommended throwing a male in with her to stimulate her to want to eat. He says it is that time of year and females will sometimes go on feeding strikes during breeding season. Breeding males and females are kept in the same rack. At last weigh in she was around 880g or so. Should I follow his advice? I'm very worried that if I do put a male in with her, she might breed and become gravid. In her current condition (low weight and becoming triangular) I'm worried this will harm her.
Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I have tried the male trick and it does work. I have had three different females at different times around 1 KG that stopped eating for over two months I put them in with a male for a week then moved them back to their own tubs and they started to eat aggressively again. I did not see any locks with any of them while they were with the male and none of them have become gravid but they are eating again every week. But I'm sure it is possible for them to breed and become gravid which would not be the best thing for them so I guess its a try it at your own risk type thing but it did work well for me so far.
Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I have two bp's (one male and one female) both just over 1,600 grams - what is the smallest tub I could offer.
My only smaller option is from a cb70 tub to a RBI Sweater box tub - would this work??
Also, does dropping the heat to 86 pose any risk of getting an RI.
Thanks.
Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
L.West
I have two bp's (one male and one female) both just over 1,600 grams - what is the smallest tub I could offer.
My only smaller option is from a cb70 tub to a RBI Sweater box tub - would this work??
Also, does dropping the heat to 86 pose any risk of getting an RI.
Thanks.
If you don't have a small enclosure, then follow the recommendations of filling the tub with crushed newspaper. 86 degrees is not a dangerous temp. There are breeders that do cool their ball pythons before breeding and 84-86 are the typical temps they use.
Jim Smith
Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
FatBoy
I agree with Jim...no male. Has anyone ever told you about the paper trick? Ball up newspaper in loose balls and completely fill her tub. Give her about a week with the paper and offer her a live weaned rat. Leave it in with her for a couple hours with the paper still in. Weaned rats are pretty much harmless when it comes to attacking a snake. Leave the paper in for a few months. This adds security. This has been a very sucessful trick for a lot of problem feeders.
This has never failed me.