Strange set up, and help with temps?

Hi to all, I need some help if possible. i have not got my ball python yet but am currently making some tests at the moment for his tank, but some things are puzzling me. I can explain the set up and the temps i am getting.

Ok, i have an exo terra glass tank 60 cm length x 45 width x 45 height but have modified it slightly to make it smaller for my baby bp, so the tank is approx 60 cm length x 30 width x 45 height.

I have the correct size heat pad at one end and a 50 watt infra red reptile lamp at the other (as seen on many setups online).

Weird thing is the lamp (of which i thought would be my hotspot) is measuring between 78-81 degrees in the hide and my pad ( i thought would be my cool side) measure 94 degrees in the hide.

It seems that i have almost reversed the way in which to make the hot and cool side of the tank and am bit worried if it will still be healthy for the snake.

Also many care sheets say that you can go between 90-95 for the hot spot, but personally i think 94 which i am reading is a bit to high. ( i would like it to be 90-92).

Any help would be great as im desperate to get my bp but want everything to be great for him :)

Thanks matt

Copenhagen

pad side is hot side. Sounds like you've got it under control!

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Originally Posted by jbean7916

pad side is hot side. Sounds like you've got it under control!

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x2

What is your humidity at? lamps kill the humidity, just for your info

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Originally Posted by Zedd

x2

What is your humidity at? lamps kill the humidity, just for your info

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Thanks for your help. Humidity has been between 50-55% so not to bad, i have covered the top of the tank but have no moss in yet.

The worry has been the temps. Now i am happy to know that it is ok to have the pad making the hotspot. today peaked at 93 and now at 91 :D

The cool side has been reading 75-77 today:O should i buy a 75 watt bulb to increase the temp or could the bp be ok with that temp?

Thanks

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Originally Posted by ms381

Thanks for your help. Humidity has been between 50-55% so not to bad, i have covered the top of the tank but have no moss in yet.

The worry has been the temps. Now i am happy to know that it is ok to have the pad making the hotspot. today peaked at 93 and now at 91 :D

The cool side has been reading 75-77 today:O should i buy a 75 watt bulb to increase the temp or could the bp be ok with that temp?

Thanks

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Hello, and :welcome: to BP.net...

75 is the lowest your cool side, or ambient temp should be. Most people try to keep it at around 78-80 just as a target temp.

Make sure you are measuring the warm spot under the substrate, on the glass. That is where you want the 91-93 temps. If you have that on top of the substrate then it is probably really hot under it. If the snake moves the substrate around and comes into contact with the glass, it can get burned.

What kind of substrate are you using and how thick of a layer is it? And are you using anything to control the heat pad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vypyrz

Hello, and :welcome: to BP.net...

75 is the lowest your cool side, or ambient temp should be. Most people try to keep it at around 78-80 just as a target temp.

Make sure you are measuring the warm spot under the substrate, on the glass. That is where you want the 91-93 temps. If you have that on top of the substrate then it is probably really hot under it. If the snake moves the substrate around and comes into contact with the glass, it can get burned.

What kind of substrate are you using and how thick of a layer is it? And are you using anything to control the heat pad?

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I was measuring the temp in the hide on top of the substrate, i have taken your advice and just tested the temperature under the substrate and it reached 102!. I assume this temp could burn a snakes skin as i certainly wouldnt want those temps on my skin for long.

I have 2 inches of aspen bedding.

At the moment i have nothing controlling any heat source but i am sensing this is very important and nessecery?

Regarding the cold spot as mentioned the cold spot moves from around 75-78 so it needs only slight tweaking. I was thinking upgrading to a 75 watt but using a rheostat to control it.? Cheap idea but not sure how effective?

I am a bit frustrated at the moment as i cant wait to get "henry" the pastel graziani but im glad im doing these tests with you guys help.

Thanks for your help

Hi,
First off it is great that you are being so very careful with you testing before you have the snake in there! So hats off for that.

I am going to make a suggestion and I'll try to explain what is happening. You have a heat source that is producing 100 percent power. If it is in a cool room it may dip below the correct and if it is in a warn room the temps increase dramatically you also get a hot glass where the contact is.

I live in Canada and I have a variable interior temperature it is always changing. I am guessing that you also have some degree of variation as well.

I am going to suggest something that is a bit pricy but will adapt to this situation. I'd recommend a dual proportional thermostat controlling a heat source for the hot side and one on the cool. You can than set the temps for both and as long as the heater has enough power to over come the room temps it will work. That big advantage of a proportional set up is that if you set the probe on the bottom of the enclosure it will feather the power to deliver the temp you set it does not allow it to ever get to hot.

One of mine is a glass bottomed enclosure the heat is twin uths and controlled by a herpstat 2 The room temps are at 71ºF (21.5ºC) The enclosure hot side is set to 92ºF (33ºC) the substrate is thin over the bottom but the glass is at 32.5º and the substrate top is 89ºF (31.5C) The cool side is set to 84ºF Glass bottom is the same and the substrate temps (thicker here) are at 80.7 It holds this if the room gets cooler or warmer the top is insulated and the ambient temps inside the enclosure are about 81-86 depending on the room temps but inside the hides are stable.

The herps stat is a bit pricy but super reliable and accurate the best part I do NOT worry about the temps. Winter summer the internal variations are covered by the herpstat there is no adjustments needed. No burns!

I hope this makes things clearer. Every set up is different and everybody's problems are as well. Good luck.
Alex

Although most people can't afford a dual proportional thermostat which can be almost $300, i would at least get an on/off or proportional thermostat so you have at least something to control the heat pad.

UTH's are notorious for going on a rampage and having the temperature spike extremely high, then dip down during the night. Getting a Thermostat, whether it be a Johnson, Ranco, Helix, or Herpstat, they are all great choices for your situation and would really help you keep tabs of temperatures especially when your gone or on vacation.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Hi,
First off it is great that you are being so very careful with you testing before you have the snake in there! So hats off for that.

I am going to make a suggestion and I'll try to explain what is happening. You have a heat source that is producing 100 percent power. If it is in a cool room it may dip below the correct and if it is in a warn room the temps increase dramatically you also get a hot glass where the contact is.

I live in Canada and I have a variable interior temperature it is always changing. I am guessing that you also have some degree of variation as well.

I am going to suggest something that is a bit pricy but will adapt to this situation. I'd recommend a dual proportional thermostat controlling a heat source for the hot side and one on the cool. You can than set the temps for both and as long as the heater has enough power to over come the room temps it will work. That big advantage of a proportional set up is that if you set the probe on the bottom of the enclosure it will feather the power to deliver the temp you set it does not allow it to ever get to hot.

One of mine is a glass bottomed enclosure the heat is twin uths and controlled by a herpstat 2 The room temps are at 71ºF (21.5ºC) The enclosure hot side is set to 92ºF (33ºC) the substrate is thin over the bottom but the glass is at 32.5º and the substrate top is 89ºF (31.5C) The cool side is set to 84ºF Glass bottom is the same and the substrate temps (thicker here) are at 80.7 It holds this if the room gets cooler or warmer the top is insulated and the ambient temps inside the enclosure are about 81-86 depending on the room temps but inside the hides are stable.

The herps stat is a bit pricy but super reliable and accurate the best part I do NOT worry about the temps. Winter summer the internal variations are covered by the herpstat there is no adjustments needed. No burns!

I hope this makes things clearer. Every set up is different and everybody's problems are as well. Good luck.
Alex

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This is really good advice, so thanks for that. Exactly right, living in copenhagen i get some cold temps in the apartment and also people turing on and off their heatings effects my temps. So i will deffinatley invest in a thermostat, i checked the one you have mentioned and it is very expensive. But have found a similar product by habistat so i will be buying one soon, the reviews seem ok and is more easily available in the eu.:):) It would also be great to not have to manually decrease the night temps. Looking forawrd to getting my hopefully happy and relaxed bp!

Thanks again

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Originally Posted by steveboos

Although most people can't afford a dual proportional thermostat which can be almost $300, i would at least get an on/off or proportional thermostat so you have at least something to control the heat pad.

UTH's are notorious for going on a rampage and having the temperature spike extremely high, then dip down during the night. Getting a Thermostat, whether it be a Johnson, Ranco, Helix, or Herpstat, they are all great choices for your situation and would really help you keep tabs of temperatures especially when your gone or on vacation.

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Thanks for the reply to, as mentioned below i checked out the herpstat thermostats and are very expensive:O if u go for the duel ones, but i have found some resonably cheap ones made by habistat, so i will buy one and hopefully will solve or at leaset ease some of my earlier problems!

Thanks guys,