Applying Flexwatt

ok i'm looking into building my own rack and for heating i'm obviously going to be using flexwatt but my main question is...

has anyone implemented a way of applying the flexwatt (belly heat) to their rack as to where it can be used over time and time again and not worry about the sliding of the tubs damaging the flexwatt. i know these commercial companies recess their flexwatt into the rack but i don't feel as though i have the tools nor the skills to do so. any suggestions?

I have just recently completed two new racks where i attached the flexwatt to some aluminum flashing. This way the flashing takes the beating, but still allows the heat to conduct through. I'm pretty sure there are others on here that do this as well. Otherwise on a melamine rack i just taped it to the shelf...have had good success with both so far.

Best of luck

I just had to redo my rack because my tubs rubbed on the flexwatt. I had aluminum tape over the flexwatt to protect it, but after a little over a year it started shocking me where it was warn down.

Here was my solution http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...d.php?t=113533

I should have posted it in this section, but I never realized this section was here :rolleyes:

Question:

Could you use the aluminum foil tape over the entire Flexwatt to protect it instead of just using it to tape it down? Or would this wear away too?
We are in the process of building a rack and I'm still torn between back and belly heat. :(
So frustrating. I just want something that is safe and will work for my snakes!

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Originally Posted by SGB_74

ok i'm looking into building my own rack and for heating i'm obviously going to be using flexwatt but my main question is...

has anyone implemented a way of applying the flexwatt (belly heat) to their rack as to where it can be used over time and time again and not worry about the sliding of the tubs damaging the flexwatt. i know these commercial companies recess their flexwatt into the rack but i don't feel as though i have the tools nor the skills to do so. any suggestions?

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you can make a recessed channel for the heat tape with a router or a table saw,either way works well and is not difficult.have fun!

TWH,

If you are using Melamine can you still router and have the flexwatt sit directly on the unprotected compressed "sawdust" without issues?

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nbelval

TWH,

If you are using Melamine can you still router and have the flexwatt sit directly on the unprotected compressed "sawdust" without issues?

Thanks!

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sawdust is not conductive....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nbelval

TWH,

If you are using Melamine can you still router and have the flexwatt sit directly on the unprotected compressed "sawdust" without issues?

Thanks!

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after i routed the channel i covered the exposed melamine with metal duct tape,to protect the melamine from humidity and spillage and the metal tape helps directs the heat upward.

once the metal tape is in place i spot glue the heat tape directly on the metal duct tape with silicone caulking.i've made racks this way over 7 years ago with no problems.btw the tub does not sit directly on the melamine (heat tape),there's a gap between heat tape and the tub.have fun!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nbelval

Question:

Could you use the aluminum foil tape over the entire Flexwatt to protect it instead of just using it to tape it down? Or would this wear away too?
We are in the process of building a rack and I'm still torn between back and belly heat. :(
So frustrating. I just want something that is safe and will work for my snakes!

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making a rack doesn't have to be frustrating,back heat is a bit easier to install (i believe this is the reason many mfg.'s use it,less labor intensive in a competive market) but more expensive and less efficient.

for example my last rack is 10 level 41qt. sideways tubs.i use 3" 6 watt heat tape belly heat,this runs less than 180 watts for the whole rack.if i were to slap 11" heat tape on the back it would be about 300 watts.keep in mind this runs 24/7 plus if you plan on getting into mulitiple racks you will have to purchase more thermostats.if you try to heat a 41qt or cb70 tub from the end with back heat it simply is not efficient.

hope this helps!

Great! I was wondering what to do about the exposed wood since the purpose of using the melamine was it is already protected and can withstand humidity.

Would you mind answering a few more questions?

I'm planning on a 34" x 24" rack for subadults (2 -28qts side by side on each shelf, 9 shelves total). Planning on 4" heat tape for this unit. And also the hatchling rack that will be in the near future this will be about the same dimensions but using the 6qt tubs.
I will have a 41 qt unit as well and was planning on belly heat with the 11" heat tape in a one foot panel per shelf. Do you think it's inneficient to use the 11" vs the 4" ?

I was just thinking that the 11" would cover about a third of the bin vs the smaller area that the 4" would cover.

All three units will be enclosed on the sides, but open in the back with a stopper strip of wood to prevent the bins from sliding too far out the back. They will be up against a wall and the ceiling height will be at the very top of the units. The room is in a 65 degree basement and I will be using a space heater to get the ambient temps correct if need be (I'm sure I will have to).

Does this all sound okay? I don't know why I'm freaking out about this. I'm just so afraid of having something be inadequate for the snakes or not safe and burn the house down!

Oh. And I told my husband about routering and he said he was just going to apply the metal tape across the flexwatt where the tubs would slide across. Then just check it periodically and replace as needed. Is this okay? Or will it still abuse the heat tape and cause problems down the road? I'll make him router if it's the safest! Thanks for the explanation of how you attach the heat tape. That was one of his questions when I suggested routing (routering sp?).
Thanks again!