First bp.

[Elleken]

So I finally got around to getting my first bp after years of wanting one. I did a lot of research on them already and just wanted to check in with you guys. I was referred here from a different site. I have it in a 30 gallon tank with aspen shavings for substrate. I have an under the tank heater on one side that I seriously need to get a thermostat for as it only is cranking it just above 80 degrees. Now this is the rough part. I would like to get it to eat frozen and not live now. If it gets too complicated and seems like it will only eat live then I will move over to that, but after having pet rats/mice years ago I will admit to having a soft spot for them. Any advice on that would be much appreciated. Other than that does my cage sound alright? I have a hide on the coolside at the moment and will be getting another very soon. As is he doesn't care too much about the hide and would rather chill in the heated side of the cage.

[knott00]

How big is your snake? Your tank may be a bit too large if you've got a hatchling or jouvenile.

If your UTH is only taking your warm side temp up to 80 degrees, you should move your hide over there. I doubt your BP will ever really move to the cool side of the enclosure, and your BP needs a place to feel secure.

If your BP still doesn't use the hide, he/she may not like the hide. You need one that is just big enough for your BP to fit its entire body in plus a small amount of room to grow. Be sure there is only one entrance to the hide. Many BPs will not use a hide with more than one entrance.

Once you are sure your BP will use the hide, your next hide should be an identicle one on the opposite side of the tank.

A thermostat will be needed for your UTH. Get one ASAP. Your temps are too low and can result in a sick BP.

Feeding frozen/thawed food is easy if your snake will accept it. I'm lucky and have a snake that will eat anything. All I do is put my frozen food in a ziplock bag and sit it in a container of warm water until it is warm.
Make sure it is entirely thawed and push on the belly a little bit to see if there are any frozen spots left inside.
Next, I remove my hides and waterbowl too from the enclosure and and put in my thawed meal. I ust drop mine right in and Indy(my BP) goes right for it and eats no problem.
You however may have to use a paid of long tweezers to move it and trigger a feeding response.


thawed food you can leave in the cage over night, however I wouldn't recommend it. Leave it there for 15 - 20 minutes and take it back out if it is uneaten and stick it back in the freezer. I would only try to feed the same meal twice before you throw it away.

I hope this helps.

[CoolioTiffany]

So I finally got around to getting my first bp after years of wanting one. I did a lot of research on them already and just wanted to check in with you guys. I was referred here from a different site. I have it in a 30 gallon tank with aspen shavings for substrate. I have an under the tank heater on one side that I seriously need to get a thermostat for as it only is cranking it just above 80 degrees. Now this is the rough part. I would like to get it to eat frozen and not live now. If it gets too complicated and seems like it will only eat live then I will move over to that, but after having pet rats/mice years ago I will admit to having a soft spot for them. Any advice on that would be much appreciated. Other than that does my cage sound alright? I have a hide on the coolside at the moment and will be getting another very soon. As is he doesn't care too much about the hide and would rather chill in the heated side of the cage.

How old is your BP? If your BP is a baby or juvenile the cage is just right. Adults will need a 40-55 gallon, 40 is the minimum size for an adult. The Aspen is just fine, I actually recommend that substrate for this species because it's safe to use and easy to spot clean.

Now for your UTH, you will need a thermostat right away because it is too cold in your enclosure if 80F is what the temp is on the warm side of the enclosure. Without proper heating, your BP could get RI (respiratory infection) from not having the correct body temperatures since snakes are cold-blooded. If they are too cold that lowers their immune system allowing the snake to become ill.

I had one of my King snakes switch from live to f/t and I had no problem with it. Feed the snake a mouse/rat about the same size as the middle part of the snake's body. When you thaw out the mice, put the mice in a container of really hot water and it should thaw within 5-10 minutes. Dry off the mouse, and then try wiggling it in front of your snake with tongs. Tongs are always best to use when feeding a snake so you do not have to use your hands which can also cause a bite since your hand is warmer than the food item.

One last thing, your hide should be on the warm side for now. BPs don't spend too much time on the cool end of their enclosure, so keep the hide on the warm side for now so the snake can get somewhat warm. When you purchase the other hide, make sure it looks exactly like the other hide you are using. You didn't mention a water dish, but I'm assuming you have one because it's very important and hard not to forget to have in your enclosure. Make sure you clean out the water dish daily ot every other day so the snake has fresh drinking water.

[llovelace]

As far as him staying on the warm side, he seems to be giving up security for heat, get an identical hide for the both sides, until then move the hide to the warm side

[Kaorte]

How old is your BP? If your BP is a baby or juvenile the cage is just right. Adults will need a 40-55 gallon, 40 is the minimum size for an adult. The Aspen is just fine, I actually recommend that substrate for this species because it's safe to use and easy to spot clean.

Now for your UTH, you will need a thermostat right away because it is too cold in your enclosure if 80F is what the temp is on the warm side of the enclosure. Without proper heating, your BP could get RI (respiratory infection) from not having the correct body temperatures since snakes are cold-blooded. If they are too cold that lowers their immune system allowing the snake to become ill.

I had one of my King snakes switch from live to f/t and I had no problem with it. Feed the snake a mouse/rat about the same size as the middle part of the snake's body. When you thaw out the mice, put the mice in a container of really hot water and it should thaw within 5-10 minutes. Dry off the mouse, and then try wiggling it in front of your snake with tongs. Tongs are always best to use when feeding a snake so you do not have to use your hands which can also cause a bite since your hand is warmer than the food item.

One last thing, your hide should be on the warm side for now. BPs don't spend too much time on the cool end of their enclosure, so keep the hide on the warm side for now so the snake can get somewhat warm. When you purchase the other hide, make sure it looks exactly like the other hide you are using. You didn't mention a water dish, but I'm assuming you have one because it's very important and hard not to forget to have in your enclosure. Make sure you clean out the water dish daily ot every other day so the snake has fresh drinking water.

Okay now. I see you posting quite a bit of advice on this forum as of lately and I think you need a bit of a reality check. Some of your advice is very good, most of it is not though. PLEASE know what you are talking about before you give people advice on caring for these lovely creatures.


OP: I would say a 30g is way to big for a hatchling. All that space is pretty overwhelming for something so small that has to constantly be worried about getting eaten by something. If you can, get him in a 10g. A 30g is good for a huge adult female. A 20g is good for an adult male.

Sounds like you don't have the right kind of thermometers. A UTH will actually heat up to about 115*F. A digital thermometer with a probe is what you need. Then put the probe right on the glass on the inside of the tank where the UTH is. You still need a thermostat.

Def. Get two identical hides. They need to be able to thermo regulate between the hot and cool side.

A picture would help us out so we can tell you exactly what you need.

Also, WELCOME!!

[Elleken]

Thanks everyone. I will measure the tank out and the bp asap. I can't take any pictures as the digital camera isn't here right now nor is the card reader. Possibly could use the girlfriends phone, but the quality would be horrible. As far as the uth goes I have a regular thermometer right above it against the glass. I've even felt the substrate and it really isn't too warm there. I'm making a trip into town (20-30 minute drive) so I can pick up some more stuff for it there. Thanks again everyone.

[coolluigi007]

Ya, That tank is HUGE if all you got is a hatching. I have all my hatchings in like, 6 QT rubbermaid containers. If you can't get a smaller cage you best bet is to put a bunch of little newspaper balls or other things to make the cage more like a jungle gym so your ball has tons and tons of spaces to hide under and by, otherwise getting him/her to eat will be a huge problem. Other than that good luck and welcome to a very, very addicting hobby.

[Elleken]

Haha, I've already got caught in the tarantula hobby. Both of these are very addicting. The cage is 30"-19"-12". I don't think he is a hatchling though it is definitely a juvenile. I'd measure it, but at the moment I believe it may be eating. I put a frozen feeder in a box with a hole in it and it decided to venture in.

[Derrick13]

Okay now. I see you posting quite a bit of advice on this forum as of lately and I think you need a bit of a reality check. Some of your advice is very good, most of it is not though. PLEASE know what you are talking about before you give people advice on caring for these lovely creatures.


OP: I would say a 30g is way to big for a hatchling. All that space is pretty overwhelming for something so small that has to constantly be worried about getting eaten by something. If you can, get him in a 10g. A 30g is good for a huge adult female. A 20g is good for an adult male.

Sounds like you don't have the right kind of thermometers. A UTH will actually heat up to about 115*F. A digital thermometer with a probe is what you need. Then put the probe right on the glass on the inside of the tank where the UTH is. You still need a thermostat.

Def. Get two identical hides. They need to be able to thermo regulate between the hot and cool side.

A picture would help us out so we can tell you exactly what you need.

Also, WELCOME!!

Isnt it great how people can ride up on a horse and start bashing otheir peoples opinions? lol. I have a juvinial in a 50gal tank thats evenly cluttered with two identical hides, one on the warm side the otheir on the cool...a log hide in the middle , two water dishes one on each side and fake plants around the back and sides and he absolutley loves it.

It would help if we knew exactly how old/big the snake is. If its a hatchling ( just afew months old) a large open area would be wayyyyyyy too stressful, however thats not hard to fix, just clutter that place up .


One important factor I have learned from BP.net is that every Ball has a diffrent personnality....their are general facts on what they may or may not like but the best way to learn more about your snake and its needs is to watch it and get to know its body language. You know your snake more then anyone else here.

[Kaorte]

Isnt it great how people can ride up on a horse and start bashing otheir peoples opinions? lol. I have a juvinial in a 50gal tank thats evenly cluttered with two identical hides, one on the warm side the otheir on the cool...a log hide in the middle , two water dishes one on each side and fake plants around the back and sides and he absolutley loves it.

It would help if we knew exactly how old/big the snake is. If its a hatchling ( just afew months old) a large open area would be wayyyyyyy too stressful, however thats not hard to fix, just clutter that place up .


One important factor I have learned from BP.net is that every Ball has a diffrent personnality....their are general facts on what they may or may not like but the best way to learn more about your snake and its needs is to watch it and get to know its body language. You know your snake more then anyone else here.

I don't really know how you determine how much your snake "loves" what he lives in. Probably because you can't.

I am giving the OP advice based on what has worked for the majority of people. The information that ballpythonLOVER gave was incorrect. a 40g is NOT the minimum for a BP. And it is surely not the maximum either.

Can you house them differently? Yes. I am not saying its my way or the highway. But saying that this is the minimum or this is the maximum is incorrect.

All of the information I give out is based on what I have learned and what other experienced members have taught me. I like to give people the easiest solutions for their problems. A 50g tank is not an easy solution. It never is.