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  1. #1
    BPnet Senior Member anatess's Avatar
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    Another glass tank set-up pictorial...

    I was doing my monthly clean-up of the vivs, I decided to take step-by-step photos in case anybody is interested. I have to say, I only have a cell phone camera, so the pictures aren't the greatest.

    1.) Tank: I'm using a 20-Long Zilla Reptile glass tank.


    2.) Cleaner: I use Natural Chemistry Healthy Habitat cleaner spray and paper towels to clean the viv and everything I put inside.


    3.) Heating Element: I use ZooMed Under-Tank Heater on the underside of the tank (outside glass). It comes with 4 stick-on "risers" that stick to the corners of the tank to elevate the tank about 1/4 inch to provide airflow. In this set-up, I went ahead and used the sticky that came with the heater. Usually, though, I leave the paper backing on the sticky side of the heater and tape the heater to the glass using aluminum tape. That way, if I need to upgrade the tank, or if the tank cracks, I can move the heater to another tank. It is quite difficult to remove the sticky once it is glued on.


    4.) Thermostat: I control the heat output of the heater using a Reptitemp 500R thermostat. I stick the probe right on top of the heater (outside glass) using aluminum tape. This guarantees that the probe is always on the heat source and not getting knocked about by the snake.


    5.) Insulation: I use cork background on the back of the tank. This particular viv uses ZooMed Cork Tiles. The cork provides insulation as well as privacy. Usually, people put cork on 3 sides of the tank, but this one I only used cork on 1 side because my room temperature is 80F. I stick the background to the glass using velcro so it is easy to remove for viv clean-up.


    6.) Thermometer, Hygrometer, and Hides: I use "AccuRite indoor/outdoor thermometer with probe and hygrometer" to monitor the temps and humidity in the tank. I use ZooMed Reptishelter for hides. I like the reptishelter because it has a floor. It gives me added assurance that the snake cannot burrow directly onto the heater.


    7.) Hot side thermometer probe: I stick the Accu-Rite probe on the floor of the hot-side hide using aluminum tape. Aluminum tape is not very sticky, therefore, if it ends up on your snake, it is easy to remove. Another option is painter's tape. Although, I haven't had one stick on my snakes yet. The hide is placed right on top of the heater.


    8.) Water bowl: I use ZooMed ReptiRock water bowl for a reason. I found that it provides faster evaporation of the water than the Exo-Terra Water Dish, giving me added humidity. I use a water bowl big enough for the snake to soak in. Depending on room humidity, I place the water bowl near the heater (increases humidity) or away from the heater. Right now, I needed it to be placed half on top of the heater. I also add some decor to "clutter up" the place - the log that goes over the waterbowl offers a little sense of "protection" when the snake goes for a drink. If you notice, I put all these before I add the substrate. I noticed that the snake will sometimes dig under the substrate to curl underneath the waterbowl and end up right on top of the heater. So, everything on the hot side gets put under the substrate.


    9.) Substrate: I use Kaytee Multi-Purpose Aspen Bedding as a substrate. Kaytee makes bedding specifically for snakes which is better than the multi-purpose one (much finer and softer). I breed my own rats, so I use multi-purpose bedding to use for the rats as well. I put the substrate about 1 to 2 inches thick. I also put substrate inside the hide to cover the probe. Note that I put the cool-side hide on top of the substrate. This is to add more distance between the heater and the hide.



    10.) Decor: I add fake plants and sturdy fake flowers to pretty up the viv and to make the snake feel more secure.


    11.) Heat lamps: During the cold months, my house temperature is set at 72. So, I use ceramic heat lamps to raise the ambient temperature in the tank. I use Day Glo and Night Glo 60W bulbs. The heat lamp is dimmable (to adjust heat output) and are controlled by a day timer and a night timer.


    12.) Humidity control: When a heat lamp is in use, the humidity drops significantly. To counter the drop in humidity, I cover 3/4 of the screened top using aluminum foil taped to a vinyl mat.



    That's the easy part. The hard part is playing with the thermostat/dimmers to get the hot-side temp at 90-95 and the ambient temp at 80-85 and keeping the humidity between 50-60%! You'll need to get all that stabilized before putting the snake in the tank.

    13.) Snake: And here's the snake in the viv. This is just temporary, just for the pictures. The viv is not plugged in yet right now and, if you notice, the viv is still infront of the fireplace on top of the futon. I'm moving the viv to its permanent place in my office, get it all plugged and stabilized and then put the snake back.


    14.) Lock: And last but not least, lock the lid to prevent unauthorized access of the snakes from visitors and the kids' friends.


    And that's how I have my vivs set-up. Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by dr del; 05-03-2009 at 01:40 PM. Reason: replacing pic for OP
    ----------------------------------
    BP owner since Oct 2008, so yeah, I'm no expert.
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    1.0.0 normal western hognose


    Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to anatess For This Useful Post:

    BPMIKE (05-03-2009),cartman89 (05-03-2009),franken_stein (08-23-2010),Mery (05-09-2009),mrshawt (05-22-2009)

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