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BP won't eat
I've had my BP for about a year and a half now. He has two hides one on the hot(93 degrees) and one on the cold(82 degrees). Humidity stays around 45-50. At night it gets cold in my room so I would turn off the light, in his cage, and put a space heater on. Well one night the space heater broke, so I bought one of those red Infrared heat bulbs. I noticed at night when I had the space heater on with no light he would cruise around his cage. But, now that I use that infrared bulb at nigh he seems not to be out and about as much. Could this new bulb I use at night be disturbing his day/night cycle causing him to not eat??? He hasn't eaten in a little over two months. The last meal he had was a good sized rat, but previous to that rat he hadn't eaten for three months. I have read a lot of threads about people's BPs going for long periods of time without eating, I know this is common. He has lost some weight, but not drastic. Any advice??
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Re: BP won't eat
 Originally Posted by leakyfawcet
I've had my BP for about a year and a half now. He has two hides one on the hot(93 degrees) and one on the cold(82 degrees). Humidity stays around 45-50. At night it gets cold in my room so I would turn off the light, in his cage, and put a space heater on. Well one night the space heater broke, so I bought one of those red Infrared heat bulbs. I noticed at night when I had the space heater on with no light he would cruise around his cage. But, now that I use that infrared bulb at nigh he seems not to be out and about as much. Could this new bulb I use at night be disturbing his day/night cycle causing him to not eat??? He hasn't eaten in a little over two months. The last meal he had was a good sized rat, but previous to that rat he hadn't eaten for three months. I have read a lot of threads about people's BPs going for long periods of time without eating, I know this is common. He has lost some weight, but not drastic. Any advice??
He could be maturing into breeding season. I don't suggest heat lamps unless they are absolutely necessary, and your humidity is too low, which is probably caused by the lamp. Up it to 60-70%.
Are you reading temperatures above the substrate? If you are, they are too warm, and he could burrow and burn himself.
Ball pythons don't really need 'day night' cycles. All of mine get nothing of the sort. You should almost never see them outside of their hides, because they are shy animals and cruising around is a sign of stress.
Pictures of your enclosure would help. How big is it, and how large is he?
Are the hides log hides? If they are, get rid of them, because log hides are useless for ball pythons. Get two small tight hides that he barely fits in with one opening. My first snake went 4 months not eating, and it turned out, he was in too large of an enclosure.
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Registered User
Re: BP won't eat
The temp probes are about 5 in above substrate. The enclosure is a 20 gal long. The back and sides of the tank are covered with dark paper. There is a towel over the cage most of the day as well(I keep an open spot for some air circulation).I use 2 upturned flower pots for his hides.I had to dremel out an entrance for him, they are clay(they aren't to big he fits very snugly). My BP is about 3 ft. My scale only measures up to 500 grams he is well over that. I got him when he was a yearling(he weighed less than 150 grams). I don't use a uth, so he is not at risk of burning himself.
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Registered User
Re: BP won't eat
UTH's will not burn your snake if they are controlled by a thermostat, or at least a rheostat. I HIGHLY suggest you get a UTH for your snake's home and invest in a quality thermostat as well. The benefits outweigh the inital investment in short order. A happy snake is a healthy snake!
Later,
Bri
0.1 - Pastel Ball Python
2.0 - Normal Ball Pythons
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Re: BP won't eat
 Originally Posted by grim reaper in NY
UTH's will not burn your snake if they are controlled by a thermostat, or at least a rheostat. I HIGHLY suggest you get a UTH for your snake's home and invest in a quality thermostat as well. The benefits outweigh the inital investment in short order. A happy snake is a healthy snake!
Agreed. they get their heat from their belly. The bottom of their tank on the hot side needs to be 90-92 degrees. With a cool side around 80-82.
"Be not afraid of greatness: some are born great, some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them." ~William Shakespeare
1.1 Normals - Apollo & Medusa
1.0 Pastel - Zeke
0.1 Pastel het OG - Dixie
0.1 Pastel het Axanthic
0.1 Spider het Axanthic
1.1 Mojave - Clyde & Bonnie
1.0 Black Pastel - Conan
0.1 Spider - Dizzy
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Registered User
Re: BP won't eat
I have one stuck to the underside of his tank, but those things make me nervous. After the space heater burnt out I opened it up and found that the wires had melted. I had also noticed that the receptacle on the timer was melted. I just don't trust them.
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Re: BP won't eat
That's why they should be controlled with a thermostat. What kind was it? I use zoo med. It has a lower watt, and without my thermo the highest it gets is 95.
"Be not afraid of greatness: some are born great, some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them." ~William Shakespeare
1.1 Normals - Apollo & Medusa
1.0 Pastel - Zeke
0.1 Pastel het OG - Dixie
0.1 Pastel het Axanthic
0.1 Spider het Axanthic
1.1 Mojave - Clyde & Bonnie
1.0 Black Pastel - Conan
0.1 Spider - Dizzy
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Registered User
Re: BP won't eat
 Originally Posted by stratus_020202
That's why they should be controlled with a thermostat. What kind was it? I use zoo med. It has a lower watt, and without my thermo the highest it gets is 95.
Just wanted to add that I have two UTH and the one that is for my BP (when he gets here... ) gets almost to 100 uncontrolled and the one we are using for our cornsnake actually got to 103+ they are both on rheostats now and stay well controlled. If you can't afford a rheostat you can make one. There is a thread here that shows using a dimmer extention cord. I couldn't find one of those so I had to make one from scratch with a dimmer switch and extension cord, I can link you to those instructions if you want.
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Re: BP won't eat
 Originally Posted by puddintain
Just wanted to add that I have two UTH and the one that is for my BP (when he gets here...  ) gets almost to 100 uncontrolled and the one we are using for our cornsnake actually got to 103+ they are both on rheostats now and stay well controlled. If you can't afford a rheostat you can make one. There is a thread here that shows using a dimmer extention cord. I couldn't find one of those so I had to make one from scratch with a dimmer switch and extension cord, I can link you to those instructions if you want.
I do have one now, but I do have some new babies coming. it would be great to have the link so I don't have to buy another thermostat just for the quarantine process. Thanks!!
"Be not afraid of greatness: some are born great, some achieve greatness, and some have greatness thrust upon them." ~William Shakespeare
1.1 Normals - Apollo & Medusa
1.0 Pastel - Zeke
0.1 Pastel het OG - Dixie
0.1 Pastel het Axanthic
0.1 Spider het Axanthic
1.1 Mojave - Clyde & Bonnie
1.0 Black Pastel - Conan
0.1 Spider - Dizzy
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Registered User
Re: BP won't eat
 Originally Posted by stratus_020202
I do have one now, but I do have some new babies coming. it would be great to have the link so I don't have to buy another thermostat just for the quarantine process. Thanks!!
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/sho...light=rheostat
here ya go. idk if you have to register to see it. my mom is a member there.
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