Everything you need to know...

[psycho]

Hey guys well I'm going to you all the information I've read so far about ball pythons in magazines, articles, books, and of course here in bp.net. So please go easy on me.

Housing/Habitat:

The basic things you need for a ball python is a water bowl (make sure you provide fresh water everyday). Hiding places, you need one on the cool side and one on the hot side. A branch or something a little bit rough so your snake could rub against when in shed. For bedding you can use aspen bedding, paper towels, or newspaper. I wouldn't recommend to use bark as substrate because it might be to harsh for skin. You also need something that generates heat and for that you need an Under Tank Heater (UTH) or flex watt paper (I think that's what is called), you might also need a heat lamp for winter when temperatures drop. Do NOT buy a rock heater as a heat source, in many cases ball pythons have been burned. You also need something that can control the temperature a Repti Temp Control from ZooMed should do just fine. Of course you need somewhere to put your ball python(s) in, and a glass tank or tub should do just fine. A long 20 gallon tank should do the job, I wouldn't recommend to put it on a 40 gallon or bigger tank when it's a baby or juvenile, it might be intimidated for the size of it. After it grows in a few years you can put it on a 40 gallon tank and it should do just fine for a lifetime. For a tub you want to get a 41 QT. Sterilite and drill or do some holes to it somehow.

Feeding:

You should feed your snake every once a week or as needed (offer appropiate size rodents). Do NOT handle your snake until 48 hours passed after it ate or it will likely throw it back up. Most snakes go off feeding during winter months and most the times when in shed. If your snake doesn't eat it's likely stressed about something; Are you handling/disturbing it too much? If so try leaving it alone for a week then offer food. Is the cage in a place that gets a lot of noise? If so try putting it in a quiet place. Are you offering bigger rodents? Even though they are able to swallow it they prefer smaller prey. If you've done may things and still doesn't eat it might have ticks and mites this is because they are wild caught. If you bought it off your local pet store next time try buying one from Petco or Petsmart those are captive bred and so far do eat. Do not force feed your snake you'll just stressed it out more. They've got to eat sometime if nothing is wrong with your snake (I've read in an article that the longest record so far that a ball python hasn't eat is 22 months, but it ate at last).

Temps/Humidity:

The hot side temperature should be somewhere between 85*-92*F all year long (unless breeding). I wil recommend you to buy a digital thermometer with a probe and put the probe underneath the hide of the hot side. The cool side should be somewhere between 75*-92*F all year long (unless breeding). If your temperatures are lower than the ones provided your snake might get a Respiratory Infection (RI), which the signs are mucus in mouth or nostrils and might be fatal if left untreated. The humidity should be 50%-60% all year long, except when in shed it should go from 70%-80%. If your humidity is lower than 50% your snake will get a bad shed and might get a dent in its eye(s). If it's higher than 60% (unless in shed) your snake might get scale rot.

If you've followed everything in this thread your snake should be a happy snake, and like I always say a happy snake is a happy owner.

[missi182]

We have fantastic care sheets that cover all of your topics extremely well, but Ill give it a read over anyway and let you know what I think.

[missi182]

Is this for personal use or for distribution to others?

[missi182]

There is a lot of info there that a beginner could have difficulty interpreting. I personally understand where you are going with each point but a little development or alternatives would be good for each point. For example, a quality thermostat is very important long term - financially and reliably. Another example is how to use a probe and why. your temps are a bit off as well, 75 degrees is too low really - 80 should be minimum.

[missi182]

This is my summary care sheet, you can take some ideas from it if you like.

This is a BRIEF list of what care is required for a ball python. Please refer to our care sheets (http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/f...splay.php?f=62) for more detailed information.


1) To measure your humidity and temperature accurately - Use DIGITAL gauges (stick on gauges are NOT reliable, and a waste of money unfortunately) The most cost friendly device you can purchase is an accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer from wal-mart for $12. The gauge does not have to be this brand, but something with an outdoor/indoor measurement will work because this means the device uses a probe.

2) You need a belly temperature (right on the glass under the hide on one side of the tank) measured by a probe (which comes with something like an accurite) of 90 - 93 degrees. This is where your bp will spend his time digesting and hanging out A LOT. A UTH (under tank heater) costs about $20 at a pet store but MUST have a control. A UTH creates a warm area under the tank and is best placed under a hide.

The safest and most reliable type of control is a thermostat ($70 - $300) but the minimum requirement for a control is something like a lamp dimmer (a rheostat, which is something that must be manually adjusted). Lowes sells piggyback lamp dimmers for about $10.

3) You need a hide on the cooler side of the tank with a belly temperature or ambient temperature in the low 80's. This can be achieved through a heat lamp with the correct wattage bulb, or simply a nice warm room. Keep in mind that the two hides you choose should be the same so your bp feels EQUALLY secure in BOTH hides. Your bp will choose where it feels safest, whether or not it is the correct temperature.

4) HUMIDITY = very important - just as important as temperature. 55-60% humidity is required for proper shedding. For tips on how to achieve this please see the care sheets.

5) A sturdy water dish with fresh water can be put anywhere in the tank, if placed over a UTH (under tank heater) it can help raise the humidity.

6) Substrate can be anything from newspaper or cage liners to aspen. Cedar is TOXIC. Do not use cedar. CYPRESS mulch is good - don't mix it up with cedar.

7) Security - ball pythons are shy. They hide more than 80% of the time so if your snake is hiding a lot, thats a good thing. Cover three sides of your tank with paper/aquarium background - what ever you would like to help your snake feel less exposed. Snug, identical hides are a MUST, one on the cool side one on the hot side.

8) Feeding - Live or FT (frozen/thawed) prey can be used approx once a week. Feeding size should be approx the width of the thickest part of your snake and approx 10-15% of the body weight (these are guidelines only)

[wolfy-hound]

I would take out the portion reccomending buying from Petco or Petsmart.. they usually order in farmed pythons from africa, which as almost WCs. Captive bred pythons can also get mites, which travel from snake to snake via bedding, your clothing, or sharing items or enclosures.
I'm sure with a bit of tweaking, you'll have a decent caresheet.

[Kaorte]

I think he was talking about buying prey items from petco or petsmart.

I think you are missing a lot of information from your caresheet but it is a good start.

[wolfy-hound]

"If you've done may things and still doesn't eat it might have ticks and mites this is because they are wild caught. If you bought it off your local pet store next time try buying one from Petco or Petsmart those are captive bred and so far do eat. "

This is what I referred to.