My Snake Likes Cooler Temperatures?

[JNieporte]

I don't know if this is a problem or not. Some back ground on the set-up first... temperature and humidity are measured by Acu-rite digitals; one on the warm side and one on the cool side. The cool side is left unheated so I have a temperature gradient. The warm side is heated with an 8-watt undertank heater and a 50-watt red IR bulb. If the IR bulb doesn't get the temperature in the high 80s / low 90s, I switch it to a 60-watt Daytime bulb. Night times get a blue "moonlight" 75-watt bulb.

Here's the problem... my ball python leaves her hide whenever the temperature gets above the high 80s. Seems like anything above 85 is too hot. The thermometer is right on the substrate (aspen) so I don't think she's getting burned. She'll go over to the cool side (where it's around 75 degrees) and hang out until I unplug the undertank heater or change to a lower wattage bulb.

Can a small (24" long) ball python be healthy in mid-80 degree temperature as the high? I'm a bit confused as to why she doesn't like the heat.

EDITED to add: she's showing no signs of illness, and is eating just fine. Shedding was about three weeks ago, and humidity is around 50% since I've added sphagnum moss. She's active at night as usual, but still likes the cooler side of the aquarium.

[xdeus]

Yes, your snake will be fine. They usually enjoy the warm temps when they need it such as after feeding, shedding, or breeding. Just provide a nice temperature gradient and a hide on each end, and they will move to where they feel most comfortable.

[Texas Dan]

You said until you unplug the UTH? Do you not have a thermostat? It's also better if you have the probe under the substrate, on the glass.

[JNieporte]

You said until you unplug the UTH? Do you not have a thermostat? It's also better if you have the probe under the substrate, on the glass.

No, I don't have a thermostat. The thermostat / hygrometer combination units are digital Acu-rites, but they don't have a probe. They're just the standard stand-up / magnetic back style, so I stand them up in the corners right on the substrate. Wally World didn't have the probed kind, so it was those or nothing :-(

I'm pretty sure she's not getting burned; she doesn't burrow (the substrate around her hide is packed well) and the thermometers have never gotten above 92. You're saying that I should put the thermometer right on the glass at the bottom of the aquarium and take that reading as the hide reading?

[lpnaz480]

No, I don't have a thermostat. The thermostat / hygrometer combination units are digital Acu-rites, but they don't have a probe. They're just the standard stand-up / magnetic back style, so I stand them up in the corners right on the substrate. Wally World didn't have the probed kind, so it was those or nothing :-(

I'm pretty sure she's not getting burned; she doesn't burrow (the substrate around her hide is packed well) and the thermometers have never gotten above 92. You're saying that I should put the thermometer right on the glass at the bottom of the aquarium and take that reading as the hide reading?

do you mean thermometer/hygrometer? i would suggest getting a probe for more accurate temps.

[gu1do24]

you should a thermostat to control that uth or at the least a light dimmer until you can save up for one. You can find a good thermostat on Reptilebasics.com I use the Helix one and it works great. Also on the "Thermometers" get the Acu-rite ones from Lowes or Home Depot, they have humidity, ambient temp and a probe temp. the are ~$15, He may be preferring the cool side because the UTH is too hot and starting to burn. There is no accurate way to measure the UTH temp without a temp gun or a probe thermometer.