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BPnet Veteran
burgandy
Man too bad this thing is a WC. She is freaking gorgeous though. Even if she doesnt prove to be anything shes definetly a keeper.
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Re: burgandy
I was thinking the same thing.
I would LOVE to add her to my collection but unfortunately she is a WC gravid girl who will most likely drop duds, be nasty tempered, need to be treated by a vet, kept in strict QT, and probably still wouldn't adjust and slowly waste away. Really a shame since that is one smoking animal.
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Re: burgandy
I'm gonna take a wild guess on this one... Are you talking about the one that was on Kingsnake today?
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"The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." - Gandhi
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Re: burgandy
She is blinding! I can't even see her! 
seriously...I can't see her?
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ROCK CHALK JAYHAWK GO KU!!
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Re: burgandy
 Originally Posted by iCandiBallPythons
I'm gonna take a wild guess on this one... Are you talking about the one that was on Kingsnake today?
Yes.
The WC adult gravid JnJ has for sale.
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Re: burgandy
 Originally Posted by SPJ
Yes.
The WC adult gravid JnJ has for sale.
Ya I thought it was awesome. The WC part sucks though.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: burgandy
First of all, thank you all she is a amazing looking animal that looks even better in person. It sucked to sell her, but bills have to be paid and she is going to a good home...
Now as for gravids in general.....
 Originally Posted by SPJ
I was thinking the same thing.
I would LOVE to add her to my collection but unfortunately she is a WC gravid girl who will most likely drop duds, be nasty tempered, need to be treated by a vet, kept in strict QT, and probably still wouldn't adjust and slowly waste away. Really a shame since that is one smoking animal.
I see a lot of people saying things like this but 99% of them have never kept a w.c gravid or have not gotten the right advise on how to take care of one.
We have held back 25-30 gravid females over the last 2 years (07'+08' season) and have gotten nice big clutches from these females. We only had 1 female slug out and she was questionable from the beginning but was a morph that we wanted to work with so took the chance.
Most of our females were 2000-2500 grams and averaged 7-8 eggs some were more most were 8 eggs with no slugs. One 2700 gram female gave 12 perfect eggs that all hatched.
If you work with the female and take the time it takes to get her back on track they can be a very rewarding experience. They are not aggressive /nasty animals yes they should be treated by a vet as any imported animal should. Quarintine... any new animal should be so its no different with a gravid.
The biggist failure of these females is the 1 line care sheet some guys are selling people on, they require work and time, but most importantly common sence. You see a lot of the new guys selling gravids with the "treated for ticks sale pitch... that could be a reason their females slug out.
Why would you expose a gravid female or her eggs to harsh chemicals and not expect any negative side affects, I have always belived it was best to remove any visual ticks and give the females a nice warm soak when they came in. This got any ticks out in the open off her, and out of the way. The ticks do not leave the female until she lays eggs, then we just remove the ticks with tweezers and tick them with a deli cup of alcohol. We then give the female a soak to get rid of the smell of the clutch and give her a clean new cage that has been treated with black knight or P.A.M
Once the females are set up and settling back in we give them a week or 2 so they can adjust, and then give them the nessasary dose of wormers. (We work with our vet to get the right meds and dosages and do not recomend giving meds. without a vets supervision/recomendation)
After the females have been set up in a nice warm rack... we preffer back heat or a heated room as it give a more natural ambient temp... on cypress mulch we let them settle in for another week after getting their meds.
When letting them set settled in we only open the box every 3-4 days to check for cleanliness and change the water, as durring this time its best to let them be alone.
Once they have has a few weeks to settle in we offer them a live gerbil at dusk and give them a few hours to eat it. A lot of the time they need to be offered food for 2-3 times a week apart but after that time they will start taking gerbils at night. Once they take a meal we leave them alone for a few more days and offer another live gerbil at dusk, generally they will take the next meal a little quicker than the first. Once they have taken 2 meals we start to check on them every 2 days just for a minute so they get used to people being around. By the time they are ready for the 4th meal we offer small weaned domestic rats if they take it we stick to reg. rats if not we feed gerbils for a few more weeks then offer rats each feeding until they are taking them on a reg. basis. After they are on weaned domestic rats for a few weeks you can start increasing their food size to a larger rat. We use weaned rats as the bigger ones seem to scare then to much and can do more mental damage than good to the animal. If you cannot get gerbils, you can try soft furs, I tried them on a bunch of picky animals, c.b and w.c most of my w.c wont look at asf but will take gerbils all day.
Their are other tricks to use but above is our basic system for getting w.c animals gravid or not to feed. As long as you give them time and do not stress them with handling and bugging them all day the can and will do well.
My advise is if you want to do the work give them a try, but if you want a animal that is super easy and can be handles and played with get a c.b.
This is not a how to do it article but more of a what works for us and what we recomend to get you stated. I hope this helps anyone who is working with or is looking to work with these special animals.
Last edited by josh@outbackreps; 01-23-2009 at 01:55 PM.
Reason: Spell check will not work...sorry for the mis-spelling..
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to josh@outbackreps For This Useful Post:
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Re: burgandy
 Originally Posted by jnjreptiles
First of all, thank you all she is a amazing looking animal that looks even better in person. It sucked to sell her, but bills have to be paid and she is going to a good home...
Now as for gravids in general.....
I see a lot of people saying things like this but 99% of them have never kept a w.c gravid or have not gotten the right advise on how to take care of one.
We have held back 25-30 gravid females over the last 2 years (07'+08' season) and have gotten nice big clutches from these females. We only had 1 female slug out and she was questionable from the beginning but was a morph that we wanted to work with so took the chance.
Most of our females were 2000-2500 grams and averaged 7-8 eggs some were more most were 8 eggs with no slugs. One 2700 gram female gave 12 perfect eggs that all hatched.
If you work with the female and take the time it takes to get her back on track they can be a very rewarding experience. They are not aggressive /nasty animals yes they should be treated by a vet as any imported animal should. Quarintine... any new animal should be so its no different with a gravid.
The biggist failure of these females is the 1 line care sheet some guys are selling people on, they require work and time, but most importantly common sence. You see a lot of the new guys selling gravids with the "treated for ticks sale pitch... that could be a reason their females slug out.
Why would you expose a gravid female or her eggs to harsh chemicals and not expect any negative side affects, I have always belived it was best to remove any visual ticks and give the females a nice warm soak when they came in. This got any ticks out in the open off her, and out of the way. The ticks do not leave the female until she lays eggs, then we just remove the ticks with tweezers and tick them with a deli cup of alcohol. We then give the female a soak to get rid of the smell of the clutch and give her a clean new cage that has been treated with black knight or P.A.M
Once the females are set up and settling back in we give them a week or 2 so they can adjust, and then give them the nessasary dose of wormers. (We work with our vet to get the right meds and dosages and do not recomend giving meds. without a vets supervision/recomendation)
After the females have been set up in a nice warm rack... we preffer back heat or a heated room as it give a more natural ambient temp... on cypress mulch we let them settle in for another week after getting their meds.
When letting them set settled in we only open the box every 3-4 days to check for cleanliness and change the water, as durring this time its best to let them be alone.
Once they have has a few weeks to settle in we offer them a live gerbil at dusk and give them a few hours to eat it. A lot of the time they need to be offered food for 2-3 times a week apart but after that time they will start taking gerbils at night. Once they take a meal we leave them alone for a few more days and offer another live gerbil at dusk, generally they will take the next meal a little quicker than the first. Once they have taken 2 meals we start to check on them every 2 days just for a minute so they get used to people being around. By the time they are ready for the 4th meal we offer small weaned domestic rats if they take it we stick to reg. rats if not we feed gerbils for a few more weeks then offer rats each feeding until they are taking them on a reg. basis. After they are on weaned domestic rats for a few weeks you can start increasing their food size to a larger rat. We use weaned rats as the bigger ones seem to scare then to much and can do more mental damage than good to the animal. If you cannot get gerbils, you can try soft furs, I tried them on a bunch of picky animals, c.b and w.c most of my w.c wont look at asf but will take gerbils all day.
Their are other tricks to use but above is our basic system for getting w.c animals gravid or not to feed. As long as you give them time and do not stress them with handling and bugging them all day the can and will do well.
My advise is if you want to do the work give them a try, but if you want a animal that is super easy and can be handles and played with get a c.b.
This is not a how to do it article but more of a what works for us and what we recomend to get you stated. I hope this helps anyone who is working with or is looking to work with these special animals.
I had considered getting one from you (I have experience with WC animals) and thought you were really good at setting them up and having the vet check them but to be honest when I saw you posted one of these girls for sale on your site with big tick on her tail, I changed my mind. I do not want to risk my animals with WC ones.
http://www.jnjreptiles.com/pictures/female_md_4.jpg
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