Hissy, Pissy, Tail Vibrating, Biting Corn Snake!

[Hapa_Haole]

I've been handling my corn for about 3 weeks now with a small interruption from Thanksgiving break but she's really showing no signs of cooling down. I still get bit almost every time I get her out and I'm getting sick of it!

I realize that it will probably take longer than 3 weeks to get her to settle but if anyone has any tips to help her get used to me quicker I'm all ears. She may be showing some signs of calming down but that's probably just hopeful thinking. She stops striking when she's out of the tank (for the most part) but is constantly trying to get away from me. I try rubbing her back a bit to get her used to my touch but that usually sends her on suicide jumping missions lol.

Background info: I didn't do anything with her until 2 weeks after I got her. After 2 weeks I put in a crumpled up shirt and started putting my hand in her tank everyday (where she could see it and smell it). After about a week of doing that I started handling.

Thanks for the help.

-Dennis

[Jenn]

It sounds like you are on the right path. How old is the snake? Most corns will settle down sooner or later. However, we have to keep in mind that every snake is different. You may just have a snake that will always hate to be held. I have a corn like this, and I have the best luck handling him a couple of days after he eats. Having a snake like this is great practice for any snake handler. I'll bet she has a great feeding response too!!!

[ev477]

My milk had the same attitude when I got it. I think holding it when it is least active during the day helps (I don't remember if corns are nocturnal or not). Also I noticed that when holding it while it was in blue, I know people say you're not really supposed to, it was less likely to do the suicide jumps and it didn't move around as much. It probably appeared to be less stressed out but it really was more stressed...

As for stroking it, it's probably not helping, it's just annoying it. Just make as little motion as you can around it. I think moving slow gives the best results, at least it's slowing down on the biting too.

[Hapa_Haole]

I'll bet she has a great feeding response too!!!

Hah, you hit that one on the nose. She is a little piggy that is so much fun to watch eat. Her feeding response is wicked and she takes all of 2 minutes to strike and swallow her food.

Shes an 08 neonate so hopefully she'll calm down with age. I have a feeling that she'll never really tolerate being handled though. Does your trouble snake still bite or just try to escape?
And she is definitely a great snake for learning handling techniques but I'm glad she wasn't my first snake. I probably would have given up on the hobby haha.

I think holding it when it is least active during the day helps (I don't remember if corns are nocturnal or not). As for stroking it, it's probably not helping, it's just annoying it. Just make as little motion as you can around it. I think moving slow gives the best results, at least it's slowing down on the biting too.

Hmm that's a good point. I've been holding her at night so maybe I'll start some day sessions.
She's usually chill when she can just cruise around on my hands but she isn't too fond of being grabbed (in tank or out of tank). So if I never rub/grab her while handling how will she ever get used to it?

[Bruce Whitehead]

I find that with mine I just gently scoop them from the side... for my flighty ones, I just sorta come at them a few times, they tend to dart away, as they are darting away they get those "ripples" on the side... I just scoop them up at one of those points.

Be very calm and make deliberate movements (but stay attentive).

They are VERY receptive to movement, so if you are pulling in and out and away, they are going to be hyper attentive to those movements. I really avoid jerky movements with them. Which can be hard if you are anticipating being bit... if she turns her head and you pull back, she is going to be watching your hands (just think of how they track fingers on the side of tubs).

My young male is a really flighty. I just calm myself before I handle him and know how I am going to come at him, and what my plan is to pick him up before I even open his enclosure.

I let them try and get away... just hand over hand and let them travel.

Baby corns are very busy snakes, adults are too. Very different from your BP.

Just be gentle and let her bolt, but let her bolt into your hand and try to anticipate her next move. She isn't going to leave your body so you do not need to worry, she will be more apt to try and run up your sleeve.

Hope that helps.

Bruce

PS: I have never had a corn bite me in a handling session, although I know that a few have wanted to as I was coming in to pick them up. I think the deliberate movement is key, as well as scooping from behind the head AS she is travelling away from you.

[python.princess]

Mine was the same way. It took about 6 months or so for her to calm down after I got her. Just the way young corns are, I hear...

[greghall]

When they get bigger they settle down,but mine are sqirmy.

[Hapa_Haole]

Thanks guys, I guess there's hope yet!

And Bruce, you really hit the nail on the head with that post. My tactic is to also grab them by the "ripples" as they scamper away. The problem with that is my snake usually chooses fighting over running.

So what I do when this happens is freeze my hand in mid air or place it down somewhat near her and just remain still. I let her calm down a bit until she's comfortable enough to slither away and then I make another go to grab her. Does this sound good? Sometimes I need to remove my hand completely before she gets on the move again. Or should I just grab her through the striking to teach her that striking doesn't mean being left alone? In my mind grabbing through the strikes poses a problem because as Bruce said, she is very attentive to jerky movements and its very hard to act smoothly when getting bit/struck at. I can't stop my pullback reflex no matter how I prepare myself although I'm getting better.

I do the hand over hand technique once I have her out but even with this she occasionally freaks out so I have no choice but to hold on. She's managed to leap away from me once but since then I've been more attentive to her bursts of speed. She really hates being restrained but I see no other way to deal with it. She seems to go into these flights when a finger brushes up against her (accidentally or purposefully) and sometimes for what seems like no reason at all.

Another idea I had was to lift up her hide and grab her before she has a chance to process what's going on (gently of course). Then maybe she won't have the time to think/execute a strike? Or maybe it will just freak her out even more? Thoughts on this?

I'll shut up now, this is getting long.

[patm1313]

My best bit of advice is to keep your hand below the corn's eye level when picking them up, and do it as fast as possible. It will be so shocked they will have no time to bite.

[snakelady]

You said she was the worst in the tub. You could try making a snake hook from a wire hanger. It's not that hard for a corn. The hangers with the double wire top part, that goes over the clothes rod, work best. No sharp wire ends that way. Or you can wind electrical tape over the end. (just make sure no loose tape)
Then you could pick her up and get her out of the tub that way and hold her after she's out of her enclosure. It could be the coming down on her from above that is making her more panicky. Like a hawk going for her as prey.

My Corn is a tail rattler as well. I call her my "rattlesnake"