Is cooling necessary before breeding

[spk329]

I've heard mixed views. Some breeders say they do (cool) and some say they don't. What does it do for the Balls? Get them in the mood or what?

[TooManyToys]

OK, I'm wating for the experts to chime in here

[spk329]

HELP.........please

[SnakeDoc]

I think it's a matter of preference from breeder to breeder. I cool my boas and pythons down starting in late Sept. to early October for my boas and a little later for the pythons. Depends to on when you want them to lay.

[m00kfu]

Use the search button. Someone just asked this like 2 weeks ago.

[Gloryhound]

Use the search button. Someone just asked this like 2 weeks ago.

Yes someone did, but if you want the break down it seems like it is a what works for you kinda deal. We had one pair last year and tried the cooling and didn't get anything. This year we are not cooling and going to see what happens. So far so good out of the 3 pairings we currently have going 2 have photographed locks. The third may have locked, but they were coiled up laying on top of their tales, so we do not know. Only time will tell if it works since just becouse they lock does not mean you get eggs.

I hope that broke it down good enough for you. I would play with it and see what works for you. Even among the ones who cool I have heard different things. Some cool to 80 degrees on the warm side and some to 85 degrees. Some do a very slow progression while others do a slightly faster progression. A lot of people cooling and not cooling seem to have good success. That is part of the fun of breeding, one of those things you have to learn and figure out. It may come down to having to cool some and not others. If you come up with an exact science to it that works every time let everyone here know, I'm sure some of the big breeders would even be interested in knowing a 100% success ratio method!

[SPJ]

Last year..............
Cooled - all fertile - all hatched

No cooling - all fertile - all hatched


So far this year with no cooling......

It's up to the snake. If they are ready without a "cooling period", they will breed and produce eggs.

[Bill Buchman]

I don't cool, but I have a MAGICAL breeding room based on my season this year. I feel temps (high and low) are important. I did not drop mine much -- 82-85 day/77-80 night. Belly heat is set at 88 24/7. HUMIDITY IS MY SECRET WEAPON!!!! MY ROOM IS A RAIN FOREST!!!! 60-65/Day and 68-75 night.

I hope to avoid the sophomore jinx this coming season. Good luck all!

[StickyTongues]

I don't cool, but I have a MAGICAL breeding room based on my season this year. I feel temps (high and low) are important. I did not drop mine much -- 82-85 day/77-80 night. Belly heat is set at 88 24/7. HUMIDITY IS MY SECRET WEAPON!!!! MY ROOM IS A RAIN FOREST!!!! 60-65/Day and 68-75 night.

I hope to avoid the sophomore jinx this coming season. Good luck all!

I'm in the same boat as Bill. I don't cool my guys and gals either. The only thing I do is raise the humidity in my breeding racks around this time and that seems to get them going. My males are always horny so there's not much I need to do to get them in the mood.

[broadude]

I don't cool, but I have a MAGICAL breeding room based on my season this year. I feel temps (high and low) are important. I did not drop mine much -- 82-85 day/77-80 night. Belly heat is set at 88 24/7. HUMIDITY IS MY SECRET WEAPON!!!! MY ROOM IS A RAIN FOREST!!!! 60-65/Day and 68-75 night.

I hope to avoid the sophomore jinx this coming season. Good luck all!

Shhhhh....too many people think the condensation on the tubs is bad! Let them..I think that it's a simulation of the rain season and as long as the substrate is dry it's not a problem.

BTW..I don't cool. I have the PERFECT facility (my basement) The end tub temps are cooler there when the seasons change, but the hot spot stays the same. The humidity is great in MD anyway.

I use back heat so as not to have to worry about a "glitch" frying my eggs.