What to use to seal a plywood cage?

[whitewolf]

Hi,
I'm building a tank for my prospective ball python and I was wondering what I would use to seal it from moisture and the inevitable snake presents that will most likely touch it at some point. Any ideas? I've looked on the forums and researched a bit and so far everyone seems to be suggesting water-based polyurithane and PolyShades. However, what about using white melamine paint? Like for cabinets? Is that safe? Also, how long should I wait for it to cure? I was planning on putting the flewatt underneath the cage so it can get adequate ventilation.

[dr del]

Hi,

Are you sure the flex would be able to heat well enough through plywood?

I would be tempted to plan on putting it inside and silicon sealing a piece of vinyl flooring or something over the top of it to keep it away from liquid doins.

As to the sealing I don't know enough about the melamine paint to comment but, as long as you let it cure well, I think polyurathane would be ok.


dr del

[whitewolf]

Hi,

Are you sure the flex would be able to heat well enough through plywood?

I would be tempted to plan on putting it inside and silicon sealing a piece of vinyl flooring or something over the top of it to keep it away from liquid doins.

As to the sealing I don't know enough about the melamine paint to comment but, as long as you let it cure well, I think polyurathane would be ok.


dr del

I'm not sure if the flexwatt will heat well through the plywood. I was going to test that later since I won't have the snake for a bit. The vinyl is a good idea, but I wonder drilling holes into the bottom of the cage and maybe use plexiglass sealed with silicone instead of vinyl would work just as well? This way here, it gets air flow and it will be closer to the snake. I wish I knew whether or not melamine paint would be ok or if anyone's used it. It seems to be a cleaner and less moist alternative to polyurithane. thanks for your reply

[Argentra]

No heat source will go through wood. What you have to do is install the flex INside the cage, then put vinyl flooring over it and silicone seal the edges. The cord for the heat source (and the probe for the t-stat) can go through a hole cut in the floor of the cage, which will be covered over by the vinyl.

To treat the wood, use about 3-4 coats of Polyurathane (one coat of polyShades if you want color). Make sure to let it cure in the sun for a few days before you start using it, though. Not sure about melamine paint, but you would probably have to let it cure outside longer.

[whitewolf]

No heat source will go through wood. What you have to do is install the flex INside the cage, then put vinyl flooring over it and silicone seal the edges. The cord for the heat source (and the probe for the t-stat) can go through a hole cut in the floor of the cage, which will be covered over by the vinyl.

To treat the wood, use about 3-4 coats of Polyurathane (one coat of polyShades if you want color). Make sure to let it cure in the sun for a few days before you start using it, though. Not sure about melamine paint, but you would probably have to let it cure outside longer.

Ok thanks. hmm sounds like the general consensus is putting the flexwatt inside. I was just concerned about the instructions I have seen that say not to sandwhich it, but I can drill air holes for it through the bottom. I don't mind letting the melamine cure longer. I have a while. I know people use melamine wood, but I'm not sure if anyone's used the actual paint. :-\ I might just go with the poly since most people seem to have used it with success.

[Argentra]

You're welcome. I love building and working with wood...

And the hole for the cords is the ventilation for the heat source. You could add a few more small holes, but don't overdo it since you want more heat going up than down.

[jspuds]

Even though you seem mostly set, if you're curious, here are some links to my plywood tank build and humidifier.

My sealing probably wasn't as good as you should do it - I did try to coat the inside pretty liberally with some nontoxic sealant, the name of which I forget, which is supposed to protect well for humidity (but not actual soaking in water). I haven't had a problem yet, but my walls and floor are also all covered with regards to the humidity output.

The main design point you might want to consider is a false bottom. Mine is aluminum, which is pretty inert and water-safe, as well as super easy to clean. i like being able to put heaters and such under it ( i have a 2" space underneath), and for heating I use a combo UTH (with thermostat) and radiant heat panel.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=60582

Humidifier, and finished tank w/ deconstruction pics
http://www.herpcenter.com/general-co...age-heavy.html

I prefer homemade tanks, personally, they always work exactly as you want them to, at least thats the hope. The gaps in the doors provide plenty of ventilation for me, as well as maintaining humidity.

Good luck!

Jim

[whitewolf]

Even though you seem mostly set, if you're curious, here are some links to my plywood tank build and humidifier.

My sealing probably wasn't as good as you should do it - I did try to coat the inside pretty liberally with some nontoxic sealant, the name of which I forget, which is supposed to protect well for humidity (but not actual soaking in water). I haven't had a problem yet, but my walls and floor are also all covered with regards to the humidity output.

The main design point you might want to consider is a false bottom. Mine is aluminum, which is pretty inert and water-safe, as well as super easy to clean. i like being able to put heaters and such under it ( i have a 2" space underneath), and for heating I use a combo UTH (with thermostat) and radiant heat panel.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=60582

Humidifier, and finished tank w/ deconstruction pics
http://www.herpcenter.com/general-co...age-heavy.html

I prefer homemade tanks, personally, they always work exactly as you want them to, at least thats the hope. The gaps in the doors provide plenty of ventilation for me, as well as maintaining humidity.

Good luck!

Jim

Ahh a false floor. I didn't even think of that one. Thank you The links were very helpful as well. what a great idea with the humidifier and how it's concealed. Thanks

[whitewolf]

You're welcome. I love building and working with wood...

And the hole for the cords is the ventilation for the heat source. You could add a few more small holes, but don't overdo it since you want more heat going up than down.

Yeah I know, I don't want to go nuts with the drill and have too much ventilation haha. I understand what you mean though. I could just make the cord hole bigger than it needs to be to allow for ventilation instead of attacking the bottom of it with a drill. haha Thanks again

[Blue Apple Herps]

I have used a water based sealant with much success to seal wooden cages. I've found it to be better than oil based ones. With either one though, let it cure as long as possible. I would let mine cure out side for several weeks, just to make sure all the fumes and possible toxicity was gone.