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  1. #1
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    Stupid newbie question...

    Okay - All I know is that I know nothing... so pardon my ignorance up front.

    I have a 3 ft 3 y.o. ball that I got on mother's day (5/11) which was 25 days ago.

    When we got it, the previous owner said it was 3 years old, docile as could be - had never bitten anyone. It ate only live mice, and once a small rat. He tried to get it to eat a frozen mouse - not interested. That's some background as told to me prior to becoming ours.

    Since we've had it, it's eaten twice: once the week we got it (one mouse), and once 2 weeks later. The first time was one mouse, and the second time two mice. Here it is eating the 2nd mouse the 2nd time: http://youtube.com/watch?v=VCXxBiSYdlk

    We've handled it every day since we've had it. It had a bad shed a week or so ago, and after reading up on here, we did a soak in a pillowcase, and I helped it out of its skin (eye caps 'n all). It was a heck of a lot calmer after it got rid of the skin.

    Now things get interesting..... on Tuesday (2 days ago) it bit my son hard enough that it broke the skin. Out of the blue. And last night it hissed at my husband. I have no idea what's going on. I didn't even know ball pythons hiss.

    Here's my stupid paranoid newbie question: Is there any chance it could be a female and could have been fertilized without our knowledge over 25 days ago, and could be "preggers"? I read an amazing page from a link on here, and it's not doing the things like wrapping itself around its water bowl or anything that I've noticed, but the spine is very, very defined like it said on that link. It's more angular than round on top.

    Just a thought.... would love to hear yours.

    Thank you.

    - judiilana

  2. #2
    Banned JASBALLS's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Dang!

  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran STORMS's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Stressed out maybe? What is your setup like? Temps? Humidity? Substrate? Hides? How long are you handling him for each day? You shouldn't handle for up to 48 hours after feeding or during a shed. Let us know - there are a lot of experienced people here to help.

  4. #4
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Current temp: 82 on cool side, unknown on warm side (heating pad)
    Current humidity: 75%
    Substrate: artificial grass
    2 hides (warm & cool)
    Have not handled for 48 hrs. after feeding.
    Did handle during the shed.

    So it's not just preggers, eh?

  5. #5
    Registered User ani15174eva's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    You really need a thermometer on the warm side and a theremostat. If you can't afford a thermostat at least get a rheostat. Heating pads get extreemly HOT and could burn your snake or worse. the warm side should be about 90 degrees. you should prob drop the Humidity about 10% it should be between 50-60% normally and you could raise it to 70% during a shed...

    Hope you figure out the issue... Sorry I could be of no more help...

    ~Hollie~

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran stangs13's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Quote Originally Posted by judiilana View Post
    Current temp: 82 on cool side, unknown on warm side (heating pad)
    Current humidity: 75%
    Substrate: artificial grass
    2 hides (warm & cool)
    Have not handled for 48 hrs. after feeding.
    Did handle during the shed.

    So it's not just preggers, eh?
    Nope, not preggers.

    The warm side is to hot. I can tell you now, without a thermostat it is over 100 degrees. Leave her alone, don't handle her till she starts feeding normaly every week. Snakes are not animals that can just be picked out of there enclosures anytime you want them to. They are very unsocial, and don't enjoy it like a dog or a cat would. Jst give her some time, and read around the forums, lots of info to help you out.

  7. #7
    BPnet Veteran STORMS's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Quote Originally Posted by judiilana View Post
    Current temp: 82 on cool side, unknown on warm side (heating pad)
    Current humidity: 75%
    Substrate: artificial grass
    2 hides (warm & cool)
    Have not handled for 48 hrs. after feeding.
    Did handle during the shed.

    So it's not just preggers, eh?
    You definitley need a thermostat to control the UTH's or at least a rheostat. I would change the artifical grass to papertowels, newspaper or aspen. If the snake isn't shedding the humidity is a bit high. 60 degrees would be better.
    Last edited by STORMS; 06-06-2008 at 12:14 AM. Reason: i'm an idiot

  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran Laooda's Avatar
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    Re: Stupid newbie question...

    Hi and congrats on your new addition...
    First, I would read this care sheet over to establish proper temps, humidity, hide info, etc...
    http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=59

    It's usually a good idea to let a new Ball Python settle in for a month or so before handling... they are very shy animals by nature, and seem to benefit from a settling, or "securing" period in an new environment.
    Re: the bite...Did you see something that might have initiated the bite to your son? Some snakes are very sensitive to fast movement, unstable handling, smell, etc...

    Every snake has it's own personality, and they vary greatly... from shy, to curious, to aggressive... it's great that it is eating for you, that's a good thing... especially in a tub. There are many different combinations that work for feeding, but removing the snake from it's enclosure is usually not necessary...

    As for the triangular shape of the back, Kaa looks a tad bit thin... "she" would have had to have been in an enclosure with a male in order to be gravid... that's not unheard of!

    All I can recommend is read, read, read....

    There is a world of great info right here!
    Grey Scale is a good thing...

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