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Re: Corn breeding tips needed
 Originally Posted by dr del
Hi,
So I am trying to breed my corns this year.
I brought them out of brumation at the start of April and started feeding them smaller meals every 7 days (first meal was half grown mouse which they inhaled) on the 14th.
I tried introducing her to the male near the end of the cooldown and again after the first feeding.
He always went into the twitching stage but the female didn't seem intrested and I never saw any sucessfull locks.
So tonight I had another of my wierd ideas.
I put in the male house snake to see if that made any difference to her behaviour - god love him he actually tried but no success (and I can't imagine anything could have come from it anyway  ).
She did seem a lot more energetic than usual though so I put the male corn in (all this was in a 24" temp tub normally used during cleaning) to see if it helped.
Low and behold she raised her tail and I saw this;
Appologies for the quality of the pics.
Now of course I think I disturbed them too much as they only stayed together for about 20 minutes.
She does still have her tail slightly elevated so I have placed them both in her normal tub to see if they get it on again.
Am I just rushing them as she has not yet shed and is only going back to full sized mice tonight?
My ball pythons are still locking up so it seems that everything is going to be late if it happens at all and it's starting to drive me insane.
Any tips appreciated.
dr del
Derek if you place them together for 3 days and then apart for 3 days you should get enough breedings.I have had them breed while in shed (my snow i had was very light colored so it was hard to tell when she was inshed .You will know when they REALLY get going as he will "ride" on her back while they fly around the enclosure.The first time mine did this i thought they were killing one another .If you have any more questions ask away.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Corn breeding tips needed
Corns are quick like that! They do not stay locked up like BP's at all.
Jenea
GuardianReptiles.com
"The irrational fear of snakes is the only excuse a grown man has to act like a complete sissy" - Colchicine
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Corn breeding tips needed
they are real easy to breed,if the the female is ready she will let him mate with her,if not she tries to get away.mine are laying eggs now or have laid .
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Re: Corn breeding tips needed
I don't begin to introduce until after their post brumation shed. I've found its a crapshoot putting them together before they shed, but if you wait until after, virtually everyone is receptive.
And corns are a lot quicker than bps; you won't see any 24hr locks. I aim for three lock ups with corns - that's all it takes. Since you've had one, wait three days (to give the mail time to "reload"), then put them back together, wait three days, then put them together for the last time. That's all it takes to get the job done.
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Re: Corn breeding tips needed
Hi,
Thanks for all the tips folks.
I had put the male in with the female so will seperate them tomorrow and hand out the frozen mice. 
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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Re: Corn breeding tips needed
Hi,
Ok feeding got delayed by lack of supply - for some reason jumbo mice are hard to get, I eventually had to settle for normal adults after the order didn't turn up. 
I was checking the tubs today while waiting for their dinner to defrost and I noticed the female corn seemed to have a slight mid-body swelling and then noticed what looked like smaller swellings from then on down her body.
I am wondering if this is the eggs geting arranged down her body and , more critically, if I should change the feeding schedule - she ate her mouse tonight ok though and still shows no signs of shedding. Should I offer her more often or use smaller mice or what?
The male corn however refused his mouse which threw me - the guy is usually a little bucket.
And here are the best pictures I could get of her "profile" today - appologies for the quality of the pictures the camera is a point and shoot and I'm a point and pray.


Can I also check she is just a normal amel? Just curious.

Oh and in the last pic I don't have horns it's me finger.
Opinions?
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
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Re: Corn breeding tips needed
I see the bumps; I don't know what those are. You'll see a uniform swelling down the back half of her body indicating eggs. I've never seen it earlier than a couple of weeks after copulation, so I don't think that's what you're seeing. And with the females, I feed them normally for the first two to three weeks after mating, then giver her a couple of smaller meals. All of mine go off feed within a week or two of laying.
As for you guy; he's probably just refusing because its breeding season. Some of my guys continue to eat normally, some of them think they're bps and refuse to eat for a month or two. I wouldn't worry about it.
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