Accurite and Smart Snakes?

[elusivereptiles]

OK. So I've noticed that about 50% of the accurite's that I've seen or bought have been bad. Or at least it doesn't tell humidity properly. I've gone through 2 accurites in my incubator that has condensation on the glass which tells me it's at least 50% or higher humidity, yet the accurite says it's 46%. So I buy another accurite and stick it in there and it says it's 99%. Doesn't seem to be a very good investment if there is a 53% humidity swing between the $12 model and the $20 model. I guess I don't understand the craze behind something that doesn't work that well. Is it because they are cheap?

The other thing is that I was told by a lot of people when I first got on this forum that snakes weren't smart enough to go to the warm side of their tub, hence why we have to keep an ambient temp of at least 80 degree's through out the tub. I find this highly amusing considering some people think that their snake knows what day of the week it feeds, however the snake isn't smart enough to find the warm side of its tub. I don't know about you, but I find that to be effing hilarious. It seems to me that survival is key in these animals lives and when they are put in a situation where they have to make a decision by themselves, their instincts take over. Personally I feel that if you wave food in front of a snakes face (REGARDLESS OF WHAT DAY OF THE WEEK IT IS) the snake will eat if it's hungry. I have spent hours watching my snakes and learning their mannerisms and can physically watch them go from the cold side to the hot side.... My best guess is that their are cooling down and would like to warm back up. That seems to be pretty simple to figure out... or at least I thought so. Don't get me wrong none of my snakes have low temps... some of them just prefer the 80 degree side more than the 90 degree side and vice versa. BUT ALL OF THEM SWITCH SIDES A LOT THROUGH OUT THE DAY!

Anyway I just thought I would share that with everyone. Thanks for looking, and any knowledge on the accurite would be much appreciated.

[the bull]

You should test your equipment before you use it. It is also important to check your measuring devices it make sure they are in good working order.

You can do a google search and find plenty of ways to test hydrometer.
It can easily be done with a room you know is dry or you can place it in a zip lock bag that has a damp cloth it should be almost 100%. If you put it in a sealed container with a bottle cap full of really salty water it should read 75%.

[ThyTempest]

Accurites dont work in incubators because they get too wet and as such, stop working. Find a hygrometer with a probe so the unit can be out of the actual enclosure. I know that Zilla makes a thermo/hygro with a separate temp and humidity probe that I have heard good things about. It is about 17 bucks.

[rabernet]

Accurites dont work in incubators because they get too wet and as such, stop working. Find a hygrometer with a probe so the unit can be out of the actual enclosure. I know that Zilla makes a thermo/hygro with a separate temp and humidity probe that I have heard good things about. It is about 17 bucks.

Accurites have probes too.

[rabernet]

OK. So I've noticed that about 50% of the accurite's that I've seen or bought have been bad. Or at least it doesn't tell humidity properly. I've gone through 2 accurites in my incubator that has condensation on the glass which tells me it's at least 50% or higher humidity, yet the accurite says it's 46%. So I buy another accurite and stick it in there and it says it's 99%. Doesn't seem to be a very good investment if there is a 53% humidity swing between the $12 model and the $20 model. I guess I don't understand the craze behind something that doesn't work that well. Is it because they are cheap?

The other thing is that I was told by a lot of people when I first got on this forum that snakes weren't smart enough to go to the warm side of their tub, hence why we have to keep an ambient temp of at least 80 degree's through out the tub. I find this highly amusing considering some people think that their snake knows what day of the week it feeds, however the snake isn't smart enough to find the warm side of its tub. I don't know about you, but I find that to be effing hilarious. It seems to me that survival is key in these animals lives and when they are put in a situation where they have to make a decision by themselves, their instincts take over. Personally I feel that if you wave food in front of a snakes face (REGARDLESS OF WHAT DAY OF THE WEEK IT IS) the snake will eat if it's hungry. I have spent hours watching my snakes and learning their mannerisms and can physically watch them go from the cold side to the hot side.... My best guess is that their are cooling down and would like to warm back up. That seems to be pretty simple to figure out... or at least I thought so. Don't get me wrong none of my snakes have low temps... some of them just prefer the 80 degree side more than the 90 degree side and vice versa. BUT ALL OF THEM SWITCH SIDES A LOT THROUGH OUT THE DAY!

Anyway I just thought I would share that with everyone. Thanks for looking, and any knowledge on the accurite would be much appreciated.

I don't recall anyone saying that they were stupid. We HAVE said that they will choose security over thermoregulating. Not all of them, but especially shy ones will pick a favorite hide and not thermoregulate, which is why it's important to have identical hides on both sides.

[littleindiangirl]

Anyway I just thought I would share that with everyone. Thanks for looking, and any knowledge on the accurite would be much appreciated.

I find a lot of what you say on this forum amusing as well. I'll only address a few things concerning my experience and advice. Putting aside all anthropomorphism and going back to basics and my motivations for what I recommend to new keepers.

I don't understand the craze behind something that doesn't work that well. Is it because they are cheap?

Accurites are recommended because they have a very good rate of reliability when compared to analog dial hygrometers. They are inexpensive and while sometimes a few of them don't work, I have found out of my 6 accurites, only 1 is off when compared to the group and other different brands of accurite. I also know that most of my accurites have gone for a swim in the water bowl at some time or another. I've given in to the fact that equipment gets broken and needs to be replaced periodically. (You should also check the batteries, sometimes they give weird readings if the batteries are close to dying, or there is substrate stuck in the back grid)

The other thing is that I was told by a lot of people when I first got on this forum that snakes weren't smart enough to go to the warm side of their tub, hence why we have to keep an ambient temp of at least 80 degree's through out the tub.

I would love to see this post made by any relatively experienced member here. If you don't understand the motivation behind the idea of this recommendation, I'll go ahead and explain it again.
Ball pythons are shy snakes and will often choose security over thermoregulation or hunting. The risk of illness is multiplied when the improper temperature gradient is in the cage and the snake again chooses security over thermoregulation.

It's a keepers responsibility to minimize the risks to the animal(s) they are keeping, and by providing a temperature gradient that is neither too cool nor too hot will allow the snake the best chance to keep their immune system running a top speed. It IS possible to keep a snake with a temperature gradient as low as 75 degrees. Would I or others here ever recommend the new keeper that 75 is fine? No, I hope not. Most often the new keeper is not experienced enough to see he subtle cues of oncoming sickness or stress.

Ball pythons will also refuse to feed if the husbandry or temps in the cage are not at optimal levels. Often why we recommend the ambient temps to be at or above 80. A 5 degree difference does make a world of difference to a cold blooded animal.

Another idea is the night time temp. If the day time temps are at 75, what are the night time temps at? 70? That is very cool for a tropical species and prolonged exposure to cool temps can take a toll on the immune system.

I know your argument is that the snake will seek out heat if too cool. That is fundamentally true.

A snake given a hot spot of 95, and cool end of 75 will be seen thermoregulating very regularly. Trying to keep itself at the optimal temperature. They expend energy going back and forth in this manner, revealing themselves from their secure hides to transition back and forth from cool to hot. With neither end being at the most comfortable state, do you expect anything different?

This constant moving back and forth can also impact their first need of security. Feeling insecure can again lead to problems of stress related illness or non feeding.


By offering our ball pythons an optimal temp, they can spend time in their hides without the need to thermoregulate too often and improve our chances of successful keeping.

It isn't about if they are smart enough, it's about fulfilling their most instinctual needs. Security appears by all means to be the most important need to ball pythons.

I find this highly amusing considering some people think that their snake knows what day of the week it feeds, however the snake isn't smart enough to find the warm side of its tub.

Do snakes know it's saturday? Of course not. But my snakes do know that feeding day is a very regular set time apart. This is evidenced in their mannerisms with and without stimulation.

My snakes are fed saturday night.

On sunday through monday, they are satiated and hiding while they digest their meal. Tuesday through thursday they are curious, brought out to be held and admired. They are not being stimulated by any rat scents and are just doing what snakes do.

Friday, we clean out their water cups. They aren't held so much, but neither are they all awaiting feed. Some of my more enthusiastic feeders like the Sumatrans will be expecting a rat, but a simple touch on the head lets them know it is still not feeding day. BUT, they know it is close. That is still all without stimulation of scent.

Saturday morning... walk into the room and most if not all of their heads pop out of the hides. They are tense and on a hair trigger. Opening of the tub and they will immediately tongue flick, are twitchy, watching all heat sources. Some will strike. These animals are all locked and loaded and are not being stimulated by any scent whatsoever. They KNOW it's been a period of time, and it is feeding day. I do not handle on feeding day.

Saturday night, rats are brought in, pre-scent, then feeding. Awesome feeding responses, brought on by prescenting, regular amount of time. I have no doubt that most if not all of my snakes have learned the amount of time that passes between feeding days.

[FloridaHogs]

Accurites have probes too.

But that probe is for temp, not humidity. The humidity is read by the base unit.

[rabernet]

But that probe is for temp, not humidity. The humidity is read by the base unit.

You are correct! I was not quite awake when I posted!

[starmom]

I will respond to the Accurite section for the OP since I feel Connie represented the rest of the post extremely well.
I have 14 Accurites- well, 13 now since one was plopped into a sink filled with water
With good batteries inside they all read within an acceptable range of each other; one or two degrees and very close humidity. I count on the Accurite to give me a quick glance of the ambient temps and to give me a humidity read. I have a temp gun for spot on temp accuracy. I know that my humidity is within what the unit says because my snakes shed perfectly every single time and that is proof enough for me.

[Hotshot]

I have to get a new acurite... mine got pissed on lol...